Beerj
Sonzabitches!
Finally figured out how to do an okay vertical. I went downhill but it's a start.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Do we have a welding thread on here?
- Thread starter 94xjsport94
- Start date
bad80cj
Well-Known Member
I'm doing it wrong. Lol nice job buddy!
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
Thanks man. I have no idea if I'm doing it right. Just figured out a combination that works for me. Really short stickout and angled up just a bit. Though my uphill still looks like a blind dog with seizures did it.
MarsFab
Well-Known Member
Looks great!
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
MarsFab said:
Thanks guys. And I'll definitely give that a try. My welder has 1-7 for voltage and 0-100 for wire speed. I usually go just a hair higher on the speed. For example, if I'm at 4 on voltage, I'll go about 43ish on wire. That's what that weld was done at. I'll try bumping it down to 40. Kinda wish I had real voltage/fpm settings.wont work said:
wont work
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Beerj said:
You don't need numbers to adjust a welder. Sight and sound is your friend on setting a machine. Just because you set one machine on those settings one identical to it may be set 15 amps lower and 20 volts higher. Welders are built the same but they are just like all machines all are a little different and then you factor in longer welding cables, smashed liner, different wire, and etc. So you what you know about what a weld should look like and sound like during welding to set your machine and forget those numbers on the machine.
Agree with wont work on the sight and sound. Guys at work always wanna ask me about settings, and all I can say is "heck I don't know. Go look yourself" I adjust my machine pretty much daily on how it sounds or how I'm feeling. If I was deaf there is no possible way I could tune a welder
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MarsFab
Well-Known Member
Part of setting up a machine correctly is having the wiring and power supply correct for the machine. To truly get consistency in your welds and not end up with good days and bad days as often this is critical. If a guy doesn't use the same settings every time he welds the same type joint and material thickness it means he either doesn't have the machine dialed in correctly or the power supply isn't consistent.
Many constant voltage machines don't give you the actual voltage and wire feed per inch your using. I have no idea why and I don't like it, especially on a machine like my mm212 auto set. It has an infinitely variable voltage knob. Every time you move it and come back you have no way of knowing if you're in exactly the same spot.
On many of the 250 amp and up MIG machines like the Lincoln 255, 256 or the millerMatic 252 they give you a digital read out of the voltage down to a 10th of a volt. It's a nice feature but one major draw back to them is the huge 250 amp gun and consumables. I prefer to use a much smaller tweco mini gun. Just don't expect it to live very long welding at high current for a long time. For 90% of the 4wd world we never go over 19 or 20 volts.
To add to what "wont work" said. I agree you don't need to really know the actual numbers if you're just trying to make a decent weld. But if you want truly consistent and repeatable results you need to know what they are and it's a great idea to make a cheat sheet for every joint type and material thickness.
On my old dvi I have pen marks on the faceplate for where to set the dials it's very helpful
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Many constant voltage machines don't give you the actual voltage and wire feed per inch your using. I have no idea why and I don't like it, especially on a machine like my mm212 auto set. It has an infinitely variable voltage knob. Every time you move it and come back you have no way of knowing if you're in exactly the same spot.
On many of the 250 amp and up MIG machines like the Lincoln 255, 256 or the millerMatic 252 they give you a digital read out of the voltage down to a 10th of a volt. It's a nice feature but one major draw back to them is the huge 250 amp gun and consumables. I prefer to use a much smaller tweco mini gun. Just don't expect it to live very long welding at high current for a long time. For 90% of the 4wd world we never go over 19 or 20 volts.
To add to what "wont work" said. I agree you don't need to really know the actual numbers if you're just trying to make a decent weld. But if you want truly consistent and repeatable results you need to know what they are and it's a great idea to make a cheat sheet for every joint type and material thickness.
On my old dvi I have pen marks on the faceplate for where to set the dials it's very helpful
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Beerj
Sonzabitches!
Bumping this thread back up since I'm learning tig now. Figured I'd see what this "walking the cup" is all about.
I like it! The secret to it, is in your hood. :****: Best thing I ever did to help with learning Heliarc welding, was to force myself to do things with my offhand. I made myself eat, brush my teeth, etc. with my left hand. It helped tremendously. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a jamb up TIG welder by any means, but some days I am. 
Need some advice regarding new welder purchase please.
Currently using Hobart140, love it, it has always treated me well, but I am getting into bigger projects and need the amperage.
I'm going to get either the Eastwood Mig175 or Eastwood Mig250.
Main question, is the 60% duty cycle worth the extra cost of the 250?
Alternatively, with the added benefit of being able to burn thicker material, AND being able to run off 120v should I need to take the machine on the road with me, is there any real reason to consider the 175?
The 175 comes with a spool gun, but I really don't see doing much aluminum work, plus it can always be added to the 250 down the road.
Thoughts, opinions?
Thanks!
Currently using Hobart140, love it, it has always treated me well, but I am getting into bigger projects and need the amperage.
I'm going to get either the Eastwood Mig175 or Eastwood Mig250.
Main question, is the 60% duty cycle worth the extra cost of the 250?
Alternatively, with the added benefit of being able to burn thicker material, AND being able to run off 120v should I need to take the machine on the road with me, is there any real reason to consider the 175?
The 175 comes with a spool gun, but I really don't see doing much aluminum work, plus it can always be added to the 250 down the road.
Thoughts, opinions?
Thanks!
Are you stuck on Eastwood?
Have you considered a Hobart Handler 210 since you like the 140? I have one and its absolutely awesome.. They go on sale at Tractor Supply pretty often for like $799 or something..
And its spoolgun ready.
Not sure how it compares to the Eastwoods are far as duty cycle and such, but unless your production welding then you likely wont ever come near it.. I've purposely tried to get mine to cut off and haven't been able to..
Have you considered a Hobart Handler 210 since you like the 140? I have one and its absolutely awesome.. They go on sale at Tractor Supply pretty often for like $799 or something..
And its spoolgun ready.
Not sure how it compares to the Eastwoods are far as duty cycle and such, but unless your production welding then you likely wont ever come near it.. I've purposely tried to get mine to cut off and haven't been able to..
Beerj
Sonzabitches!
Agreed, I run the same thing and it's been nothing but a pleasure to useDwill817 said:
clemsonjeep
Well-Known Member
FYI...www.weldersupply.com has the Miller 211 with AutoSet on sale for $1079 right now and Miller has a $100 rebate on it so...$979 shipped to your door. They ship quick...and I got my rebate from Miller 2 weeks later. I love it!
MarsFab
Well-Known Member
More welding....
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94xjsport94
I wish I knew more
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Nice edge control.
Eddyj
Well-Known Member
Please explain what we are looking at? Is that all weld?Red97 said:
I'll play.
That is a 4"od 3"I'd tube for scale.
Not as pretty as some of yours.
Eddyj said:
Yes sir, those are all weld beads almost 2" buildup, on a 46x66 area 1700lbs of .120 mig wire.
Each weld bead is roughly 2" wide x 12-18" long and 3/16-1/4 high. All hand layed.
Last project was over 13k of wire, and 22" thick in the deep end. Have some pics of that if anyone is interested.
