Doing Some Body Work! Tips?

[84Toyota4x4]

As I stood in front of Ashleys wrecked 4Runner tonight, looking at all I had done, I couldnt help but think I had very quickly gotten myself waist deep into something I had never done before...

Some of you may have seen the pictures of her 4Runner after rear ending a van, so that may have made sense. Some may have not. Either way, she rear ended a van in her 87 Runner, and insurance won't pay to fix it, so I decided to take on the task.

We started tearing it down so I could repair and replace everything that needed to be done, and so far its gone amazingly smooth.

Last night she and I tore the drivers side crunched fender off, as well as the entire front of the truck down to the core support as well as the radiator out. We also degreased the engine like crazy.

Tonight she and I accomplished getting the drivers side inner fender back into the right shape, getting the good passenger side fender off, and getting the core support off the drivers side. It now hangs in limbo still attached to the passenger side, waiting for those spot welds to be drilled out so it can be free.

I guess here is where Im a little hesitant. I mean, it seems like a simple concept, get replacement panels, align, weld in place, then bolt new parts on.

What Im mainly asking, is if anyone who has done this kind of work has any tips or advice I could use along the way of trying to set the front of this truck back up right, I would really appreciate it. As I said, I found myself deep into a project which Ive never really had to work with before, and I kinda dove in head first without much research.

I wouldnt say Im worried about it, just wouldnt mind a little help along the way is all. So, any one with advice, feel free to chime in!

~T.J.

 

[Totalled]

Make sure the frame rails are straight, then the inner body structure. Then go from there on the cosmetics.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Measuring the frame rails just in front of the IFS then at the very front did reveal that theyre pulled in about 1/4" from that front crossmember getting pushed in a little. I plan to cut it out and replace it with a new piece of square tube anyway, and in the process correct the frame rail width.

When it was at the body shop and they did their estimate, that was the only frame damage he talked about, and he called it purely "cosmetic" frame damage.

Im sure that replacing that piece will solve the problem. Its going to be a little while until we get the parts we need to start reassembly (core support pieces and so on) so I have time to do that part first, but I have a good overall feeling about the project. Its going a lot smoother than I thought so far.

Hopefully when it comes to line things up it works out the same way again, haha.

~T.J.

 

[Totalled]

1/4" isn't bad at all.. Rent a porta power and spread em' back out. :awesomework:

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I thought about that, but I think if I just cut the piece a little big, then slam it in with a sledge, it should work too, haha.

In all reality, I'll probably find someone who has one, but I plan to try the above idea first, haha.

My next area of concern will be paint. Ive never done that before either. Although, Im willing to try anything once. If it comes out decent, Im gonna respray the whole truck down the line (only doing both fenders and hood this time). I also need to paint mine. So, I figure its a good time to learn.

Anyone with some good sites to read up on what Im gonna be getting into? I've read up on it a few times from various sources for my truck, but something good to read and brush up on would be nice (no pun intended) if anyone knows of a good site. Tips? Advice? Brand preferences?

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

In all reality, I'll probably find someone who has one, but I plan to try the above idea first, haha.

Got a hilift? I bet once you cut one side it'll snap right back into place.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I was thinking about using my hilift too actually, I just wasnt sure if it actually would jack "backwards" and apply pressure to spread instead of clamp.

I too was thinking that with the small amount the amount the rails are tweaked, it isnt enough to pass the "memory" point of the metal, and once that front is cut out, I expect it to pull back out for the most part on its own.

Only time will tell here shortly, haha. Thats pretty much my next step after I get the last of the core support off probably today. Once the core support is off, I'll start on the frame so thats ready when the new panels get here for the core support.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

I was thinking about using my hilift too actually, I just wasnt sure if it actually would jack "backwards" and apply pressure to spread instead of clamp.

Huh? What do you think it's doing when you lift a truck with it, possibly spreading it away from the ground? :fawkdancesmiley: Stick foot against one rail, hook hook thingy against other, crank it maybe a click. You could also use the stock screw bottle jack and a 4x4.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Huh? What do you think it's doing when you lift a truck with it, possibly spreading it away from the ground? :fawkdancesmiley: Stick foot against one rail, hook hook thingy against other, crank it maybe a click. You could also use the stock screw bottle jack and a 4x4.

I don't even want to talk about why I was thinking the way I was. Ok, I do... For some reason, I was thinking about how I could use it to clamp the rails together with the top hook thing and the lift pad, and then I thought "hell, I wonder if I can use it the other way by putting the top against one rail, then the lift pad on the other and using it "reverse" to spread them" :looser:

Dontcha hate when your brain over complicates things?

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

:

Dontcha hate when your brain over complicates things?

Less caffiene. :;

 

[Boonie Buster]

you might want to maybe talk to my dad about it. he did this for quite some time back in the day and i've had a hand in some body work myself (look at my truck BEFORE dents:haha: ) so you could say i've dabbled in both ends of the body work area:redneck: if you need some help looking at stuff and drinking root brewsky with ya let me know and i can swing by after work and help you in that area if need be:awesomework: :cheer:

 

[T_MADD1]

I have done a bunch of front end hit on toyota's, mostly deer damage.

One of the most important things I can think of is OME parts for your core support, apron, innerfender and what ever else you have damaged structurally.They seem to fit soooo much better and are more structurally sound then after market, I would also use OEM sheetmetal also but thats for cosmetics and not as important.

Another thing is to make sure everything is square. Find two points that are the same on each side of the firewall and two that are the same on each side on the core support.Measure straight and diagnal from these points.

Get all your stuctural parts prep'd(hole drilled and sealer ground), pieced together and squared up before you spotweld anything. You can hold everything together with some self tapping sheetmetal screws and clamps.

I have always used snap-on(bluepoint) spot weld bits. They may be a little spendier but don't damage the metal underneath as bad as most, they just leave an 1/8th" hole.

Also, make sure you get some corosion protection on the back side of your spotwelds.... Rust is bad!

I have been out of the bodywork trade for a year now and after thinking about it and writing this down, I realize I don't miss it a bit.

Shoot me any more Q's you have.

Enjoy:beer:

 

[DudeBud]

I have been out of the bodywork trade for a year now and after thinking about it and writing this down, I realize I don't miss it a bit.



Enjoy:beer:

same here, but i do pick up a lot of side jobs that the costumer doesn't care about how long its takes to finish. thats what i hated about working in a higher production shop.

 

[T_MADD1]

Yea, lay in bed on a thursday night and think step by step, everything you have to do the next day to get the jobs out the door.

Or worse yet, relying on the painter to get your 40+hr. job done a baked first thing Fri. morning so you can get it put back together and out the door by 5.
Not to mention the other smaller jobs that need to go out.

The pay was good but the stress didn't make it worth it!

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I have done a bunch of front end hit on toyota's, mostly deer damage.

One of the most important things I can think of is OME parts for your core support, apron, innerfender and what ever else you have damaged structurally.They seem to fit soooo much better and are more structurally sound then after market, I would also use OEM sheetmetal also but thats for cosmetics and not as important.

Another thing is to make sure everything is square. Find two points that are the same on each side of the firewall and two that are the same on each side on the core support.Measure straight and diagnal from these points.

Get all your stuctural parts prep'd(hole drilled and sealer ground), pieced together and squared up before you spotweld anything. You can hold everything together with some self tapping sheetmetal screws and clamps.

I have always used snap-on(bluepoint) spot weld bits. They may be a little spendier but don't damage the metal underneath as bad as most, they just leave an 1/8th" hole.

Also, make sure you get some corosion protection on the back side of your spotwelds.... Rust is bad!

I have been out of the bodywork trade for a year now and after thinking about it and writing this down, I realize I don't miss it a bit.

Shoot me any more Q's you have.

Enjoy:beer:

Well, theres some good info here, thanks!

For spot welds, I know there are actual spot welders, but uh, I don't have one so I think I'm just gonna be trying to use my 110 MIG to do little "spot welds". This will work, right? Just might not look as clean in the long run?

I plan to square everything up like you said, then weld, then primer and paint it. Just rattle can most likely since it will mostly be hidden stuff (core support). The inner fenders (aprons?) are good, its just mainly the core support that needs to be replaced. The inner fender on the drivers side was crumpled a little in a couple spots, but I was able to get it straight again with a hammer and a dolly thing. I took some rough measurements and ran some strings and it seems both inner fenders end at the same point as measured from the firewall where they would meet the core support. I'm thinking I just have to get the core support panels back on, make sure its square and be done with it.

For the actual panels (hood, fenders), Ill be spraying real automotive paint. Err, trying to anyway, haha. My uncles have done frame off restorations so I'll be consulting them along with reading up on it. I'm also going to use certified panels, but not OEM. Hopefully they work out decent.

As for the core supports and grill pieces and stuff, those are aftermarket. The cost of OEM is WAY too much on all the panels since shes not getting much back from the insurance to fix it unfortunately. I'm hoping that they're good enough I can get it to line up and look good. The truck really didn't have much damage at all, so I think it should work out pretty well actually.

Im not trying to make a show truck, but I dont want you to look at it and obviously be able to tell it was rebuilt for the most part. Im somewhat of a perfectionist, so I'll do it over and over again until I can get it right, which will probably be my curse, haha

We're also doing some upgrades and preventive maintenance while its apart though. Shes getting a new electric fan to go with the new 3-core radiator (stock), new radiator hoses, a new gel cell battery, new front cover, new timing kit with metal rails, new oil pump, new water pump, new oil pan gasket, fixing an exhaust leak from the PO, etc. Most likely it will get a new custom tube bumper too rather than the stock bumper.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

Well, theres some good info here, thanks!

For spot welds, I know there are actual spot welders, but uh, I don't have one so I think I'm just gonna be trying to use my 110 MIG to do little "spot welds". This will work, right? Just might not look as clean in the long run?

It'll work fine, and who cares what they look like. The only place you'll be doing that is on the rad support to inner fenders. Everything else bolts on. Get the sheetmetal from someone parting out a rear-ender, just take a cordless drill and a step bit with you to seperate it from the wreck.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

It'll work fine, and who cares what they look like. The only place you'll be doing that is on the rad support to inner fenders. Everything else bolts on. Get the sheetmetal from someone parting out a rear-ender, just take a cordless drill and a step bit with you to seperate it from the wreck.

That was the original plan, but we cant track one down we can get what we need off of, so we're planning on just ordering the 4 core support pieces online, then assembling them on the truck.

I guess by getting them separate, it allows me to align them more correctly specifically to this truck though, so maybe that will be a good thing in the long run.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

That was the original plan, but we cant track one down we can get what we need off of, so we're planning on just ordering the 4 core support pieces online, then assembling them on the truck.

I guess by getting them separate, it allows me to align them more correctly specifically to this truck though, so maybe that will be a good thing in the long run.

~T.J.

I personally would rather have them all stuck together as one piece than try to fit them up, but that's just me. :redneck:

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Yeah, I think that would be nicer too, but like I said, its a matter of finding one. I just realized that the body mounts will have to be swapped onto the new pieces too, what a pain, lol. The new lower core support piece doesn't come with them attached, so I have to drill them off and weld them to the new pieces.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

you've got a PM.