Doors on buggies - pics please

patooyee · Jun 8, 2013

I'm getting old and fatter, thinking about building some doors for my buggy to make getting in and out easier. I wouldn't even fathom it if I felt I would be either compromising the structural integrity of the rig or making the side of the buggy less able to protect me. Anyone got any pics of how they built theirs to make them unlikely to cave during a hard side hit? And does anyone feel that the integrity of the buggy is compromised by not having that area rigidly welded together?

Weezul · Jun 8, 2013

Maybe you could do something with tube adapters that I've seen used to connect a stinger in to tube fenders but still leave it removable. Just not sure how you'd fasten it once inside.

patooyee · Jun 8, 2013

I've got this design in my head to use tube bushings as the hinges and then some sort of latch for the inside with a tough flat-bar stop on the piller where the door would cave in if the latch broke so that, if it did break, it would just hit that flange and not me. But that still leaves me with a door that doesn't close anymore after the roll / wreck if the latch does break. So I guess I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a latch that can hold up to a hard hit without being damaged?

Joc · Jun 8, 2013

my buddy had a drag car with a cage and door bar that was hinged. I think it was basically drop a pin through a hole type setup. It was a professionally done tig welded cage so I would guess it wasnt just for looks. Ill see if he can tell me more about it.

John Galbreath Jr. · Jun 8, 2013

Nope, never seen a buggy with doors! :flipoff1:

Joc · Jun 8, 2013

heres what he sent me a pic of... should have a close up later tonight or tomorrow

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He said they have a pin in them with the push button on top that released the ball in the end of them like a ratchet head

patooyee · Jun 8, 2013

JohnG said:
Nope, never seen a buggy with doors!

Yeah yeah yeah, I seen yours and they are a work of art. But no offense intended, I don't think they've exactly been tested yet, have they?

Elliott · Jun 8, 2013

Bryan Coles jeep doors were definitely tested might chase him down.

JRoach321 · Jun 8, 2013

Wide open design is offering them on their buggies now.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/complete-vehicles-sale/1057361-wide-open-designs-new-evolution-chassis-2-seat-hill-killer.html

The-Boss · Jun 8, 2013

JJ, I had never really noticed structural doors either so I came up with this for the cage I am in the process of building for Dennis. I made studs to go in cage holes for sheer load. Would have shown you Thursday on my phone but figured you would see them in action at HPO. I might change a couple things since this is the first thing I tried, but think it should work pretty well. I am going to drill the tube up top and put the latch I got from McMasters. I put a magnet under it to show where it will basically be. I will probably add caped bushing in the tube holes and a striker plate if I need to.

Joc · Jun 9, 2013

heres the latch system in the drag car. I dont know if its worth it of not but just an example of something for you.

CB8F6F51-7548-4F6E-8714-8A7874BE421F-4563-00000943C870AB7E_zpsd8f4505f.jpg

CEE1609F-639B-47BA-9D08-CD13A5506459-4563-00000943C2C69F31_zps8eb2c16c.jpg

pachary · Jun 9, 2013

Speedway Motors

The bear claw latches are pretty reasonable. Not saying they are structural, but they are functional.

sledneck · Jun 9, 2013

We just make these, they work good and are easy to use. You could use and race car swing out setup that you like.

The Goat 812 · Jun 9, 2013

Jj I saw what you did with a steering quick release on your passenger side t-bar. Do you think something could be done with a quick release like that for your doors?

slikwilly · Jun 9, 2013

good looking jeep right there. drool

skipnrocks · Jun 9, 2013

The highlighter coleworx buggy had doors i think and so did the green version of it?

Draco · Jun 9, 2013

patooyee said:
I've got this design in my head to use tube bushings as the hinges and then some sort of latch for the inside with a tough flat-bar stop on the piller where the door would cave in if the latch broke so that, if it did break, it would just hit that flange and not me. But that still leaves me with a door that doesn't close anymore after the roll / wreck if the latch does break. So I guess I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a latch that can hold up to a hard hit without being damaged?

You can see how I did mine here with the same idea as you have with the bushings. http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=22580.25

They work great. Fit tight, with no rattles. I got the latches through McMaster Carr. They have all kinds of sizes. :dblthumb:

slravenel · Jun 10, 2013

I saw one done on an old Tellico cab truck once that was really simple...

cage was all 1.75 tube and hinged at one end with a pretty heavy duty but simple pin setup. the "latch" end was cut diagonally so that the tube couldn't swing "in" further than it should (if that makes sense).

The latch was even more simple... it was just a piece of 2" .120 wall tube that would slide down over the cut and then had a simple pin at the end to hold it in place (hole drilled all the way through the tubes and the pin just dropped in). There where little lips welded on the 1.75 at either end to keep the collar from sliding up or down too far.

Would it be as safe as rigid welded? probably not....but you would have to rip the 2" tube in half in order for it to "open" inwards.

I think the outer sleeve idea would be safer than just a standard pin and tab though.

patooyee · Jun 10, 2013

slravenel said:
I saw one done on an old Tellico cab truck once that was really simple...

cage was all 1.75 tube and hinged at one end with a pretty heavy duty but simple pin setup. the "latch" end was cut diagonally so that the tube couldn't swing "in" further than it should (if that makes sense).

The latch was even more simple... it was just a piece of 2" .120 wall tube that would slide down over the cut and then had a simple pin at the end to hold it in place (hole drilled all the way through the tubes and the pin just dropped in). There where little lips welded on the 1.75 at either end to keep the collar from sliding up or down too far.

Would it be as safe as rigid welded? probably not....but you would have to rip the 2" tube in half in order for it to "open" inwards.

I think the outer sleeve idea would be safer than just a standard pin and tab though.

I was actually thinking of almost this exact design last night. My main concern with it was where the outer tube slides would ultimately never be able to keep paint on it though and it would turn into rusty mess if not used regularly? I guess regular doses of wd40 might help?

slravenel · Jun 10, 2013

I remember distinctly that his was not rusty, and it was just black like the rest of his cage. I would assume that it had some WD40 or something of the sort on it. I also remember thinking that "there is no way this thing slides easily all the time" but I played with it and it moved very smoothly. I would venture a guess that he hit the 1.75 with a flap disk all around the area to take just a tad bit off of it so the 2" tube would slide easy.

I remember it because it was so simple, but worked so well.

EDIT: This was also not on a new rig. It had clearly been on there for a while and used. There was rash all over the cage.