Finally "My Buggy"

wontwork · Sep 2, 2008

Put in some work this weekend on the new frame. Cut off all of the crap that somone had welded on that was awfull. Like motor mounts and trans mount. Bent the bar 2 double the frame and almost got it all the way in. Coming along nicely. Alot to do this week so will be Sat before I can put in some more work. Thursday nite if I am lucky.

Will get better pics as soon as I find my camera.

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InDaShop · Sep 2, 2008

whats the reason for the 2nd tube?

P · Sep 2, 2008

Are you welding the doubled frame tube directly to the bottom of the frame ? It appears so , thought Id ask why in this manner.

Seems it would hold alot of moisture and yuck, just my observation... reality is I dont care and im just glad to see you workin on it man ! Cant wait to watch it come together !

:afro:

P · Sep 2, 2008

InDaShop said:
whats the reason for the 2nd tube?

Structure... Rockwells, 502 = big girl. its a 1.5 chassis also.

wontwork · Sep 2, 2008

P said:
Are you welding the doubled frame tube directly to the bottom of the frame ? It appears so , thought Id ask why in this manner.

Seems it would hold alot of moisture and yuck, just my observation... reality is I dont care and im just glad to see you workin on it man ! Cant wait to watch it come together !

:afro:

No. Got 1/2" spacer between the frame rails.

InDaShop said:
whats the reason for the 2nd tube?

What P said.

P · Sep 2, 2008

have you hung the 502 in the chassis even by an engine hoist to see how she looks ?

( is that your dads shop you told me about... if so DAYUM drool )

wontwork · Sep 2, 2008

P said:
have you hung the 502 in the chassis even by an engine hoist to see how she looks ?

( is that your dads shop you told me about... if so DAYUM drool )

Motor and trans should go in hopefully sat. if I can get the rest of the double frame welded in next is axles.

Yes that is dad's shop.

blacksheep10 · Sep 2, 2008

gonna fab headers? hope it isn't too tight for block huggers :woody:

wontwork · Sep 3, 2008

blacksheep10 said:
gonna fab headers? hope it isn't too tight for block huggers

Yes. 8)

wontwork · Sep 9, 2008

Still can't find my camera so here are some pics woth the phone.

Got the motor settig where I thnk i am gona mout it. Gotta cut some of the tubes out cause the motor takes up the whole engine compartment.

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BamaTJ · Sep 9, 2008

Haley, I guess the motor has to go so far back to clear the toploader? One think I have found on my rig is that since the motor sits a little farther forward than most it cuts down on some of the heat. But I doubt that is an option for you.

wontwork · Sep 9, 2008

It can't go any towards the front due to clearance with the rad and alt. It is still gone be very tite where it is settin now. The cab is petty big so I am hoping by the time a put the firewall and seats towards the back, since i am a tallere feller, i can get away from the heat.

P · Sep 9, 2008

As I recall ( and agree with what your saying ) that chassis has a real deep area were the seats are. Can you push the drivetrain back and make a "doghouse" firewall to get it back ? Is it sitting in these pics as far back as you could get it and still get to the Dist. or bellhousing bolts ?

Im asking out of curiousity is all. Glad to see your stayin on it !!!! :afro:

wontwork · Sep 9, 2008

I could come back more, but I really like it where it is sitting now. Still thinking about my options is why I didn't start mounting the motor mounts. Where it is at now I have room for all my engine components it is just gona be tite. It is gona be tite no matter where I place the motor. Trying to get it somewhat center so I can put a hanger bearing on the front driveshaft and have the same length shafts front and rear.

blacksheep10 · Sep 9, 2008

looks like enought width to push it back adn still get your legs on teh sides. coat teh headers and panels to keep the heat down, who GAF on that, you want it to work. get that engine back and LOW so that you can stuff the front axle in front of the front damper all the way. dont stuff the axle on the engine, you lose valuable COG. go as much as you can to still have a managable rear driveshaft length

wontwork · Sep 10, 2008

I'm not worried about the heat. I can always rap the headers and put some heat shields up to keep the heat away. My main concern is to make it all fit nice and wherever I put it work with the diffs.

P · Sep 10, 2008

wontwork said:
I'm not worried about the heat. I can always rap the headers and put some heat shields up to keep the heat away. My main concern is to make it all fit nice and wherever I put it work with the diffs.

You got a WB in mind ?

Any goal on ride height ?

Is it mocked at ride height right now on those stands ? , and if so have you pushed RW's up under it to see were you stand on uptravel and or clearance issue's

Just tryin to make sure you "mock" it up with all things considered so you dont have a crazy stance after the fact brother

wontwork · Sep 10, 2008

P said:
You got a WB in mind ?

Any goal on ride height ?

Is it mocked at ride height right now on those stands ? , and if so have you pushed RW's up under it to see were you stand on uptravel and or clearance issue's

Just tryin to make sure you "mock" it up with all things considered so you dont have a crazy stance after the fact brother

Somewhere around 115 to 120 is where i would lie give or take a few since i do have front and rear stear.

Ride height is still up in the air, and no it is not sittng at ride height on the stands. Put it there so I could put the lower tube in easily.

Haven't put any motor, trans, or any other mounts in yet so everything is adjustable for when I do roll the axles under it. This is the next step. Hopefully i can get them started under it Friday night.

I have thought about everyting I think. Hell I have more time in starring at it and thinking about what will work than actually working on it.

wontwork · Sep 10, 2008

All suggestions and thoughts from anyone will be helpfull on this build since this is the first crawler I have ever built. So far I am just going off what dad and I know about what racing we have done and what we have seen work on other peoples rigs.

blacksheep10 · Sep 10, 2008

stuff that axle as tight to the chassis as possible. hopefully you can whack a tube and get the chunk on the front stuffed up in the chassis at full stuff. You'll want that front end in front fo the engine to make it stuff fully. The way to build a buggy is to start with an engine, tranny, transfer, a seat and a front end. they are all that matter. whatever side your driveshaft is on is what set you use. put the seat where you won't hit your head on the cage. Now put the tcase ON it and run the shaft between your feet. now, position your engine so it fits with the front axle. the front axle goes where it won't stuff any more into the chassis. put the engine behind this. this is much easier when you start from scratch as you build all around that. The rear builds itself, there is nothing in the way. the front is the bitch, so get your front housing where it goes, get the engine where it goes, as low as you can and as far forward to the axle as you can and build links around that. if you have any Q's call me.