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Full hydraulic steering help

tonybolton

Bypass Crawler
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
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Location
Lenoir City, TN
Steering setup:

Some sort of Eaton Char Lynn steering valve
Stock Chevy Vortec 350 PS pump
O'Reily's hydraulic fluid
Smallish 12x6 cooler
Generic tractor supply type single ended ram.....looks to be the typical 2x8.

Whats happening is that at say 15-20mph it turns with no issues to the right, but when turning the left it seems to want to bleed back and go back to center. If you turn the wheel somewhat quick to the left it will turn like normal. It only needs the extra turns when turning slowly to the left.

It does fine out on the trails and maneauvering around. It's just on the access roads is where I notice it(when at speed).

No leaks, has plenty of power to turn a 43" tire up against or onto a rock in either direction. Any clue as to what might be going on? This setup has been fine for 8 or so months....just started noticing this issue a few weeks ago.
 
I would say you have an internal seal bad or a blockage somewhere causing it.
 
Re:

Right....but cylinder or steering valve? If the pump was ify then I'd imagine it'd be a problem in either direction. ...right?
 
Re:

tonybolton said:
Right....but cylinder or steering valve? If the pump was ify then I'd imagine it'd be a problem in either direction. ...right?

Definitely in valve or ram. Don't really have a good idea on how to check that. The ram should be pretty easy to pull apart and check the seals.
 
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I may jus replace the ram. The brand name on it says "value time". ;)

Don't most have good luck using the red Grizzly rams from Tractor Supply?
 
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If I remember correctly your ram extends to the left, so it will always take more turns of the wheel to turn left, and less to turn right. It's usually not noticeable crawling, but at speed on smooth (ish) roads it will feel funny.

Not saying that you don't have a problem... But you may not have a problem
 
Re:

I've heard that as well...but didn't know if it was speed of input dependant.

The only reason for the "red flag" is that I've not noticed this issue the previous outings.
 
One place we go wheeling, you have to drive down a paved road that's curvy for a few miles, and my **** recenters itself noticeably bad, turning both directions. I just figured it was the belt slipping on the pump pulley. I've just said fawk it until something really fawks up, then I'll know what to fix lol. My steering sucks.
 
Re: Re: Re: Full hydraulic steering help

TacomaJD said:
One place we go wheeling, you have to drive down a paved road that's curvy for a few miles, and my **** recenters itself noticeably bad, turning both directions. I just figured it was the belt slipping on the pump pulley. I've just said fawk it until something really fawks up, then I'll know what to fix lol. My steering sucks.
Pretty sure you have a load reactive orbital and it's supposed to recenter.

I have a non load reacting on the gremlin and I like it. Zero recenter, zero kick back. I just need a decent pump instead of the $12 pull a part xj pump I'm running.

I like that I can completely take my hands off the wheel when crawling through a rock garden or up a ledge and the wheel/tires stay exactly where I left them
 
Re: Re: Re: Full hydraulic steering help

TBItoy said:
Pretty sure you have a load reactive orbital and it's supposed to recenter.

I have a non load reacting on the gremlin and I like it. Zero recenter, zero kick back. I just need a decent pump instead of the $12 pull a part xj pump I'm running.

I like that I can completely take my hands off the wheel when crawling through a rock garden or up a ledge and the wheel/tires stay exactly where I left them

No I mean recenter when I still have the wheel cut. Like have not moved the steering wheel mid-curve and it starts straightening back out. My rig is dangerous above 20ish mph lol
 
Re: Re: Re: Full hydraulic steering help

TacomaJD said:
No I mean recenter when I still have the wheel cut. Like have not moved the steering wheel mid-curve and it starts straightening back out. My rig is dangerous above 20ish mph lol

When mine did that, it was a bad orbital. Good time to change ratio lock to lock if needed. Mine got horrible before I replaced it, in a turn, I would have to keep turning. When I wanted to go straight, I could just hold it and it would straighten on its own. PSC told me they did not rebuild them.
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Full hydraulic steering help

TacomaJD said:
No I mean recenter when I still have the wheel cut. Like have not moved the steering wheel mid-curve and it starts straightening back out. My rig is dangerous above 20ish mph lol
Oh ****. Yeah your orbital is bypassing!
 
Re: Re: Re: Full hydraulic steering help

JohnG said:
When mine did that, it was a bad orbital. Good time to change ratio lock to lock if needed. Mine got horrible before I replaced it, in a turn, I would have to keep turning. When I wanted to go straight, I could just hold it and it would straighten on its own. PSC told me they did not rebuild them.

Exactly what mine does. Hasn't always done it, just over the past year. Been doing it a while. Prolly about time for a new orbital AND a new pump molaugh

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack!
 
If it was cylinder it would do it both ways. But might be more noticeable if it's by passing the o rings in cylinder on the Rod side. Less area so it takes less fluid leaking by to make it move.

Cylinder should take about 30 mins to figure out if o rings are bad.
 
Re:

TBItoy said:
If I remember correctly your ram extends to the left, so it will always take more turns of the wheel to turn left, and less to turn right. It's usually not noticeable crawling, but at speed on smooth (ish) roads it will feel funny.

Not saying that you don't have a problem... But you may not have a problem

wouldn't it depend on how you ram is mounted either for pass side diff or driver side diff.
 
Re:

bee513 said:
wouldn't it depend on how you ram is mounted either for pass side diff or driver side diff.

Not sure I understand what you're asking...?

You can mount the ram in any orientation (in front/behind axle/left/right/etc)

But yeah, a single ended ram takes more fluid to extend than retract, therefore more turns of the orbital
 

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