Great news Bad news...

[P]

Buggy runs like a MUUUUH FUGGGA !! I spent the last 30 minutes drag racing the **** out of it in the back field , doing front dig / rear brake slides at speed and all other means of holigan driving . first gear isnt even worth tryin with drag race starts , but man when you hit second ITS AWN, and its awn in 3rd too... good times. Im really excited and wanted to throw it on the trailer and hit the woods...


So I pull it back to the gayrage and start inspecting things and so forth.

and the Bad News .... Tranny bellhousing is broke from one end to the other Damn, so now Im guessing I need to solid mount ERRR thing in the rig.

Heres were I need help. What should I do as far as solid mounting the drivetrain , IE whats the quickest way to make this happen and still be simple maintenance / pull time on it all ? my Tcase has a mount at the adapter and the back of the Tcase itself ( poly bushing in the rear and stocker tranny poly mount inbetween. The engine is mounted via poly bushings off the frame rails like I did Joe's rig and he hasnt had any issue . he's mounted Tcase wise about the same way I am, only his is Atlas and has a Rorke mount on the back of the Tcase .

Thoughts ?

Methods of mounting this unit ?

I need to / want to knock this out STAT so i can go flog this thing. I was all excited to put it on the trailer and take it to work to do suspension dialing ( N2 / Forklift / resources.... ) and now i got a broke ass bellhousing :-[

 

[blacksheep10]

****.. weld that tranny up. haley can do it. I've welded a couple and it works

 

[Speeding]

Mid plate for Chevy engine. Made to cut down and fit your needs. This plate makes a full tie in around your engine and becomes another cross member for you vehicle. Made from 1/4" 6061 Aluminum.
Price $199.00

www.wideopendesign.com

laughing1

 

[race_jeep]

wut was the problem with your engine?

 

[1TONZR2]

glad you got it running! get yours **** together and meet us at windrock next weekend! :afro:

 

[InDaShop]

You should have had enough insulation at the polys to preclude cracking the bellhousing. I'd personally advise against solid mounting. Chassis flex, some more than others and that is what cracks bells.

What has been the luck on midplated rigs? They have there place in roundy round for sure but those chassis don't see the jarring and impacts a rock car see's.
Paul either you already had a tranny with a hairline that got worse or you have MAD chassis flex. I would guess the prior after seeing you chassis. And you didn't do anything at the race that would have impacted a stress fracture. Yes you rolled but you landed on the lid and slid.
Sorry just brainstormin'.

 

[P]

wut was the problem with your engine?

Various issues in the throttle body... we rebuilt one and slapped it on there and walla she runs good. I noticed the fuel reg was leaking when we had the intake off of it, I also knew one injector was leaking a bit when it was in the Turd as well.

 

[kid rok]

I'm curious to know what caused the trans to break. My problem has always been a loose bolt. The passenger side motor mount plate would always work it's self loose. My most recent trans break is suspect to be caused by a broke motor mount. I noticed it when I was pulling my motor. I think I'm going the route of poly bushings on everything. I know alot of guys hard mounting theirs with no problem , but if you land on a rock on the trans mount it's got to have some give somewhere.

 

[P]

Im really not sure either... I mounted Joes the exact same way, poly all around and he has WAAAAAAAAAAAAY more Hp than I do and hasnt had issue's **** he's actually wheeled his too, mine hasnt seen **** outside of a halfass running attempt XRRA and a 30 minute feild drag racing session.

Im kinda suspect of the mount on the tranny Tcase adapter now that i think about it... Its a Gm style poly mount with the two bolts into the bottom. One of them is stripped I wonder if it was pivoting the tranny/tcase off the other and allowing that to twist enough to do it ??

I know I dont want to chance doing it again so Ill do whatever it takes to not have to worry about it. Im about to go start pulling the engine out. Id like to be able to put it back together later this week / next weekend. I still need to tune the suspension and do some other lil things.

 

[P]

Mid plate for Chevy engine. Made to cut down and fit your needs. This plate makes a full tie in around your engine and becomes another cross member for you vehicle. Made from 1/4" 6061 Aluminum.
Price $199.00

www.wideopendesign.com

laughing1

Out of my budget and I dont think it would work anyway with my engine location / firewall.

 

[kid rok]

That sounds like it could be the culprit. It doesn't take much for the trans housing to crack. Good luck getting it back together,I know I hate pulling my trans and have to just commit like a mofo. If I let mine sit I'll never get to it.

 

[wontwork]

You probably had a crack in it somewhere when you put it in. You have way more mounting points than we do on mud trucks and you are about half HP.

Can weld it up at Dad's shop if we need to.

 

[blacksheep10]

with all of heath's rollovers with no brakes, I'm a fan of what we did there. mount the engine with poly. go to the tranny mount, fimly mount the trann/tcases to a rigid crossmember. mount the ends of the crossmember with poly the same width as the motor mount polys. they can all move as one unit and at the same rate. if the engine is mounted well with polys and the tranny is pivoting on the center GM mount, no good. that tcase with **** it up. best to have everything together on one mount and moving in unison.

I did this on my last crossmember for the sheep. its even painted now the crossmember, not the sheep
my engine is still factory motor mount work out to **** and moving all over. I'm working on burning out a cradle that hugs the engine block and pan within 3/8" the whole way up and over some motor mounts with poly at both ends, sheet metal sides and top with speed holes, all welded up. then my **** should never break a tranny again, unless my chassis flexes.
get that crossmember right, with bushings on the frame the same width as the motor mount bushings and weld that bitch up.

 

[kid rok]

I like the way heath's is done .

 

[blacksheep10]

yeah, heth's got done the exact same way I did my cousin curt's with his doubler. since I made the doubler plates, I made them come down extra far. then we put a piece of .250 wall 2.5x2.5" square across and bolted to it. then put poly on the end of it. works really well and is tough to **** up.

 

[Woodlee]

I have broken more transmissions than I care to admit in various different mounting configurations. Since I have went to solid mounting , and giving the skid plate room to move before it hits the tcase cross members all of my problems have been fixed. This is also how Brian Cole mounts all of his stuff too. I have stared at vehicles for hours trying to think of all the ways the drive train needs to move together and this and that. None of it needs to move. P you have a good solid chassis solid that thing up beat on it with out worry. You will drive your self crazy trying to think of all the ways it needs to move. With a good chassis it doesn't need to. We even changed to this set up in our Orange jeep after breaking a transmission and it has held up great after that. And it is on a reinforced stock Jeep frame.

I do think the stripped out mount was your culprit because if it is loose then the T case acts like a big pry bar on you bell housing causing it to break. You may also want to look at putting an Ultra Bell on your transmission this time. It may be cheaper than finding a new case and having all of the parts swapped out, and they claim to be 6 times stronger than a stock bell housing.

 

[P]

 

[Bones]

Offta! Nice work slick.

Off topic kinda. Are there any auto trans I should keep an eye out for up here for you clowns? I imagine they'd go cheaper since wheeling is not as popular. TH350, 400's, 4x4 seem to be most common??

 

[Cole]

th400's

 

[bigsilly]

I have agreed to buy a TH350 from a guy over her that was supposed to have been rebuilt and has the correct tail shaft. Giving him $150 for it. If anyone needs it let me know