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half doors

First set we made..
doors.jpg

Changed angle at rear to keep outside handle..
doors2.jpg

doors4.jpg

doors5.jpg

doors6.jpg

~mo
 
I did my doors on my old yota and cut the window frames off but on the next set of doors I will leave the window frame it gives it a more finshed look, Also if you are not running a cage it will make the cab stronger It may sound silly but it does.

As for the indent for the handles if you leave part of them you can just cut a small piece of sheet metal to cover the indent and weld it or you could put a few relief cuts and use a hammer and dolly to shape it how you want.
 
I did my doors on my old yota and cut the window frames off but on the next set of doors I will leave the window frame it gives it a more finshed look, Also if you are not running a cage it will make the cab stronger It may sound silly but it does.

As for the indent for the handles if you leave part of them you can just cut a small piece of sheet metal to cover the indent and weld it or you could put a few relief cuts and use a hammer and dolly to shape it how you want.

thanks, man. i was always wondering if people did the relief cut thing to do that, or just filled it. im about to do mine, ill probably just fill it in with some sheetmetal. i've heard about people thanking themselves for leaving the window frames when it saved their a pillar. :awesomework:
 
I used .035 cause thats what i have... .023 is ideal for thin metal. A buddy told me about some hollow wire thats kickass on sheetmetal but havent looked for it yet :mad:
 
i'm having trouble actually making welds work on sheetmetal. to avoid burning through it all, do you turn the wire speed up and the volts down? i can weld thick stuff fine, just not skilled enough for the fragile paper thin stuff. what can i say, i'm a newb:D
 
i'm having trouble actually making welds work on sheetmetal. to avoid burning through it all, do you turn the wire speed up and the volts down? i can weld thick stuff fine, just not skilled enough for the fragile paper thin stuff. what can i say, i'm a newb:D

To be honest thats what seperates those who/cannot weld. Its tricky and not easy to master---practice :awesomework:
 
Leaving the frame gives a cleaner look.
As for the welding, i work in 1" sections from top to bottom skipping aroung to minimize distortion. I use a Hobart 150... volts on 1 and speed way down... and tack tack tack..
One day my my welds will be Crashfabtacular :awesomework:
 
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Crash uses this stuff for the sheet metal... *(really, he does!)

:haha:

Save the trouble, and just throw the doors in the scrap pile. for legal purposes, run a thin piece of sheet along the bottom of the rocker 6inches high. you'll be good to go. or like most have said, turn down the heat - lower the wire speed setting, make some practice strokes on junk & then just burn small sections. little by little filling in the gaps.

sheet metal - sucks. i try to use a backing plate and spot weld as much as possible. notice new cars, old cars. nothing is seemed welded. it's all spot & pressed.

:; good luck & practice.
 
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i do alot of welding on sheetmetal although i hate it. the best way i have found to do it without burning through is just go slow. i dont have a welder with settings like "1" and "low" i put my voltage at 22-24.5 and my wire speed at 240. if you just turn your volts down and your wire speed up you will just get a big ass hole because the wire is trying to force through. the secret of it all is to let each tack weld cool fully before making the next tack.
 
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Why do you hate welding on sheetmetal? A weld is a weld, I don't hate welding sheetmetal any more than welding 3/8" plate.
 
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