Hard to start

[zukkev]

Ok kev, I will check that oil level tonight. I am having Eds do the clutch next week also. I did check all my wires and they all look good and had good voltage but I will check the relay also. I get a little oil on the top of the motor like it is leaking from somewhere too. Not sure if that has anything to do with it... I check the oil about once a week in everything I own and it needs a quart about every 2 months.

I don't care about voltage....you can show voltage, and still not have any current flow---check the amperage. It sucks trying to diagnose one of these over the interweb; often times you end up spending a bunch of money on unnecessary things! 1 qt in 2 months is nothing...On a side note, if the high pressure system is bleeding off, you'll never see the oil go anywhere, as it just bleeds back into the crankcase as it sits overnight...you might be able to check the crankcase oil level, and see if it has risen; try this...after the run of the day, park on level ground...check the oil level in the crankcase after about 1/2hr of sitting...then note that level...check it again in the am, if it has risen significantly-like 1 or more quarts worth, there is likely a leak in the high pressure oil system...

 

[Maverick26]

Ok, I will do some looking around and testing for a better idea of what it is. If it is bleeding down could it be bleeding out exterally? Like in the pic of a blown O-ring on a HPOP line.

 

[zukkev]

Ok, I will do some looking around and testing for a better idea of what it is. If it is bleeding down could it be bleeding out exterally? Like in the pic of a blown O-ring on a HPOP line.

Doubtful, otherwise your engine would be SOAKED to the bone, and likely have an entire bank not running properly....the HPOP lines you are referring to are on the output side of the HPOP anyway...the 'bleedoff' that's been referred to is the pump itself not holding the oil in the resivoir...

 

[Binder]

the 'bleedoff' that's been referred to is the pump itself not holding the oil in the resivoir...

Not necessarily. The leak could be under the valve cover...Injector O ring or injector itself....Could be the front seal of the pump or a internal leak in the pump. Could be the gasket between the high pressure res and the front cover assy.....Yeah if it were external leak you would know. That oil is at about 3000PSI and when it leaks it pours. EVERYWHERE.:haha:
I doubt you'll be able to tell the difference in the oil level as it's a 15 quart system and the HP res is only like a pint.

 

[zukkev]

Not necessarily. The leak could be under the valve cover...Injector O ring or injector itself....Could be the front seal of the pump or a internal leak in the pump. Could be the gasket between the high pressure res and the front cover assy.....Yeah if it were external leak you would know. That oil is at about 3000PSI and when it leaks it pours. EVERYWHERE.:haha:
I doubt you'll be able to tell the difference in the oil level as it's a 15 quart system and the HP res is only like a pint.

Yes, it could be in all those areas as far as a high pressure leak and you'd never see it by checking the crankcase oil level for consumption, but the OP was asking if the leaking Hpop oil lines with bad orings could be the cause for the hard start...chances are slim to none, as mentioned before. Again, if you had a leak under the VC, that bank would likely not be running properly at all...and as for an injector o-ring, there would likely be evidence in the fuel system (black fuel filter element in short order) as well as a cylinder not firing due to the loss of oil to that injector.... And FYI the HPOP res holds a little over a quart of oil when empty...I've refilled plenty of resivoirs after a HPOP replacement. Also, the 3000 psi is only under heavy throttle, at idle the pressure is only 550 or so---still enough to create a minor 'Gulf of Mexico incident' under the hood!:redneck: One would have to have a pretty accute awareness of the oil level in the crankcase to use this way of determining whether there's an issue...But it can be done, at least to point one in a direction.
To the OP...Mav, just how well does the truck run otherwise? Is the idle smooth, good power??? I can't say for sure when you were up here---but I seem to remember when you started it, the idle 'loped' momentarily right after startup? Get that clutch replaced first then report how it runs,as these issues may seem like a poorly running engine, when in fact the dual mass flywheel is out of balance from coming apart...:awesomework:

 

[Binder]

Typically on the injector O rings it's the top ring so it just leaks oil to under the valve cover so there's no contamination. When the engine is running the system just compensates by closing the IPR more. Depending upon the size of the leak you might notice under high loads as it may not be able to achive full oil pressure.....

 

[zukkev]

Yes the top oring leaks, but if that one's compromised, then the other is also likely not far behind, if it isn't already leaking...I myself, will be doing orings in the NEAR future...:haha: ........ :booo:

EDIT: and a lift pump...

 

[Maverick26]

Ok guys, I did some digging last night and I think I got the issue nailed down. I unplugged all the conectors and over half are melted/burnt together, burt pins on the glow plug side of the conectors, VC gaskets are melted in the conections also... I got those parts on order now and will be seeing if this helps :redneck:. I think it should.

Also before I did this ^ I tested my relay and came up with this in the pic. I was thinking that the 2 larg brown wires needed volts to power the gps. This test was taken with "wait to start" light on. Anything else I should do to test the relay?

 

[zukkev]

Ok guys, I did some digging last night and I think I got the issue nailed down. I unplugged all the conectors and over half are melted/burnt together, burt pins on the glow plug side of the conectors, VC gaskets are melted in the conections also... I got those parts on order now and will be seeing if this helps :redneck:. I think it should.

Also before I did this ^ I tested my relay and came up with this in the pic. I was thinking that the 2 larg brown wires needed volts to power the gps. This test was taken with "wait to start" light on. Anything else I should do to test the relay?

Nope! Relay's toast!!! Also, did you order the repair harnesses for the veihicle side of the VC connections??? Oregon Fuel Injection sells them, and inexpensive too I might add :redneck:...

 

[Maverick26]

Yes I got all the ones that go under the VCs and 4 pigtails that go onto the main harness. The 2 brown wires should have 12v when turned one right? Those are the GP wires.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Yes I got all the ones that go under the VCs and 4 pigtails that go onto the main harness. The 2 brown wires should have 12v when turned one right? Those are the GP wires.

For that relay to work those two skinny wires (not the big terminals) need a + and a - to work.
You need to test to see if one skinny wire has 12.5v+ and which is the ground and if its getting a good ground.

A relay is a simple switch. if ya put power to (-on one and +on one) both smaller leads it will complete a circuit across the lager ones until power is taken away from the small leads.

 

[zukkev]

Yes I got all the ones that go under the VCs and 4 pigtails that go onto the main harness. The 2 brown wires should have 12v when turned one right? Those are the GP wires.

If your GP light comes on, the realy is being 'commanded' on, therefore that part of the circuit is good....if you have no power coming out of the relay (on the large post to the right in the pic you posted), it's toast....did the contact 'look' burnt at that side on the old relay??? Good on you for picking up all you should need to do the job...:awesomework: You did say you replaced the GP's already, hopefully with Beru or motorcraft units...:awesomework::eeek:

 

[Maverick26]

I replaced the GPs with Bosch, I hear they work really well and last a long time, I have never heard of anything Bosch makes to be crap. They are better then the ones that were in there thats for sure.

 

[zukkev]

Hope your right. I have replaced many bosch GP's tho, just so you know!

 

[Maverick26]

Hope your right. I have replaced many bosch GP's tho, just so you know!

Great! Well at least I am really, really, really good at taking the VCs off now that I have done it 3 times in the last 3 weeks. :redneck: I guess I will run them tell the stop. :booo:

 

[zukkev]

Great! Well at least I am really, really, really good at taking the VCs off now that I have done it 3 times in the last 3 weeks. :redneck: I guess I will run them tell the stop. :booo:

Problem is, they can end up melting everything down again due to incorrect resistance, causing excessive amp draw...Poof! May not happen right away, but why take the chance!:eeek: Return them Bosch pos's to where you got them, and exchange for the Beru's or M/C...:awesomework: Better to go in once doing it right, than 3 times (O wait, you aready have!:fawkdancesmiley, or poss/prob a 4th:redneck::;