Hydro Assist / bump steer?

[Boxxerace]

You're running a 44 up front right?

How about lowering the steering box a little? Headache, I know, but maybe better than changing springs / dropped pitman?

 

[NotMatt]

A flat or near flat drag link is the only cure for bump steer. If you can lower the box or put a dropped pitman arm on, it will solve your troubles. My drag link on my wrangler is completely flat, and it drives (drove) down the road like a cadillac... no steering stabilizer, no rams, unbalanced swampers, etc.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

hey just lolwer that steering box, itll be easy!

I love when jeep folks have no clue how tough it is to keep the springs/tierods/pitman from crossing,touching or hitting with soft springs.

just spring under it, that will keep the tie rod from rubbing the springs, then mount a saginaw box on a funky plate bracket that sticks out further than the front bumper and likes to crack all the time. easy fix!:;

just run it and put some assist on it, it will work fine. sometimes a LITTLE problem is WAY easier to conform too than a lifetime of internet building perfection.

**** every aftermarket chev/ford lift kit comes with bumpsteer rigHt from the drawing board. they fixed it with a sweet sticker that says THIS TRUCK HANDLES LIKE POOP AND IS NO LONGER STOCK DUMMY, DONT LET YOUR GRANDMA DRIVE IT, IT HAS A HIGHER COG.:beer:

 

[Boonie Buster]

A flat or near flat drag link is the only cure for bump steer. If you can lower the box or put a dropped pitman arm on, it will solve your troubles. My drag link on my wrangler is completely flat, and it drives (drove) down the road like a cadillac... no steering stabilizer, no rams, unbalanced swampers, etc.

ya, i can't change it.... it's set... if i lower it, the other arm will hit, i dont even want to think of moving the box forward, that is way too much work.

I'll deal with it, I'm gonna run quad steering stabilizers:awesomework:

 

[NotMatt]

hey just lolwer that steering box, itll be easy!

I love when jeep folks have no clue how tough it is to keep the springs/tierods/pitman from crossing,touching or hitting with soft springs.

just spring under it, that will keep the tie rod from rubbing the springs, then mount a saginaw box on a funky plate bracket that sticks out further than the front bumper and likes to crack all the time. easy fix!:;

just run it and put some assist on it, it will work fine. sometimes a LITTLE problem is WAY easier to conform too than a lifetime of internet building perfection.

**** every aftermarket chev/ford lift kit comes with bumpsteer rigHt from the drawing board. they fixed it with a sweet sticker that says THIS TRUCK HANDLES LIKE POOP AND IS NO LONGER STOCK DUMMY, DONT LET YOUR GRANDMA DRIVE IT, IT HAS A HIGHER COG.:beer:

The fact remains... if you don't want bump steer, the drag link has to be flat. Steering stabilizers and rams are a band-aid fix. They may make the problem "livable", but it's still not going to ride like factory.

 

[Boxxerace]

Aaron'd don't care about how it rode "stock", he only cares how it's "Booniefied". :fawkdancesmiley:

A dropped arm might improve things a tad however. Cheap too.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

it's still not going to ride like factory.

mabey the 40 inch bias swampers will help bring it back to normal!:haha:

jeep folks!:haha: :haha: always trying to make more work, and spend more money!:booo:

 

[NotMatt]

mabey the 40 inch bias swampers will help bring it back to normal!:haha:

jeep folks!:haha: :haha: always trying to make more work, and spend more money!:booo:

Stereotypes can work both ways

Big mud truck folks: always cobbling together ill mannered unsafe POS's in the name of saving money and taking shortcuts.

:corn: :awesomework: :redneck:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

A dropped arm might improve things a tad however. Cheap too.

it will help, but will hit the spring when the suspension is cycled up on the drivers side.
same reason guys with toyotas have benn going to flat arms more and more, for spring clearence.

I magine putting a dropped pitman on a crossover toyota, massive problems will result.:awesomework:

 

[NotMatt]

Aaron: you're going to want hydro assist with those tires anyway, so "Just Do It!" :awesomework:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Stereotypes can work both ways

Big mud truck folks: always cobbling together ill mannered unsafe POS's in the name of saving money and taking shortcuts.

:corn: :awesomework:

I own ONE mud truck, and guess what it dont have a steering box.

I do own 5 toyotas two of which are beaters. one with the box moved foward 8 inches to solve the criss cross tierod problem. So no I dont have a cobbled mud truck that I give a **** about driving on the street. but my wheeler drives better than a jeep garunteed. I have probaly mounted at least 50 steering box swaps for others with any kind of headache you can imagine. I tend to only cobble my own stuff.

sometimes thers the right way
sometimes theres the wrong way
sometimes theres the it could be better, but its not worth the headache way too.:beer:

 

[Boonie Buster]

Aaron'd don't care about how it rode "stock", he only cares how it's "Booniefied". :fawkdancesmiley:

A dropped arm might improve things a tad however. Cheap too.

actually, i HAD the stock jeep arm on there, and i actually remember putting on the Skyjacker 4-6" lift DROP arm on it for this setup due to the larger TRE's..... so yes, it does have a drop arm on it, any lower and i'd have issues with it hitting the crossmember frame thingy.

and ya, Matt, Ima gonna haveta sticka witha tha biggin's on it :redneck: I want to get a better offset rim or soemthing for the 36s though since theyre new and rubbing on the driver;s side TRE, that's why the biggin's are on..... should be fun in the snow!!!:stirpot:

 

[NotMatt]

I own ONE mud truck, and guess what it dont have a steering box.

I do own 5 toyotas two of which are beaters. one with the box moved foward 8 inches to solve the criss cross tierod problem. So no I dont have a cobbled mud truck that I give a **** about driving on the street. but my wheeler drives better than a jeep garunteed. I have probaly mounted at least 50 steering box swaps for others with any kind of headache you can imagine. I tend to only cobble my own stuff.

sometimes thers the right way
sometimes theres the wrong way
sometimes theres the it could be better, but its not worth the headache way too.:beer:

It's ok. I see my stereotype got to you as much as your stereotype got to me.

I own one Jeep, among many other vehicles I own or have owned or worked on. I'm not here to get into a pissing match about what works and what doesn't, because that's all relative to what you want to do with the rig. What I'm saying is this: if you don't want bump steer while driving on the road, you HAVE to have a flat or near flat drag link. Rams and steering stabilizers may mask the problem, but they do not cure it.

That's all, don't read anything more into it. I'm not saying you can't live with the bump steer if you're more worried about off road manners, or have clearance problems. I'm answering the original question that was posted.

:beer:

 

[Boxxerace]

it will help, but will hit the spring when the suspension is cycled up on the drivers side.
same reason guys with toyotas have benn going to flat arms more and more, for spring clearence.

I magine putting a dropped pitman on a crossover toyota, massive problems will result.:awesomework:

Ahhh, that makes sense.

I guess Aaron will just have to go full hydro. No other way around it. :beer:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

It's ok. I see my stereotype got to you as much as your stereotype got to me.

I own one Jeep, among many other vehicles I own or have owned or worked on. I'm not here to get into a pissing match about what works and what doesn't, because that's all relative to what you want to do with the rig. What I'm saying is this: if you don't want bump steer while driving on the road, you HAVE to have a flat or near flat drag link. Rams and steering stabilizers may mask the problem, but they do not cure it.

That's all, don't read anything more into it. I'm not saying you can't live with the bump steer if you're more worried about off road manners, I'm answering the original question that was posted.

:beer:

understandable.:beer:

I had followed bonnies build closely as I have a friend that has a similar truck. an s10 built out of resistance to toyota building. so I offer any help I can after seeing all the s10 problems my friend has had. he is on his third one now and works good.

your tech knowledge is right on, I just didnt think it was practical for boonies build, but right on.:awesomework:

 

[Boonie Buster]

Ya, I think the problem can't be eliminated,(not without extensive work...) but at least made liveable is the issue i have, i know it needs ot be flatter, but that's what i have, any more and i run into issues of things hitting each other. I just wondered if the hydro assist would mask it the same as a steering stabilizer...

 

[Grommit327]

Ya, I think the problem can't be eliminated,(not without extensive work...) but at least made liveable is the issue i have, i know it needs ot be flatter, but that's what i have, any more and i run into issues of things hitting each other. I just wondered if the hydro assist would mask it the same as a steering stabilizer...

Neither a steering stabilizer or hydro assist will mask bump steer. They may stop the small fast movements but not the big overall movement. Something has to move when the axle compresses and it is probably going to be your steering wheel. I just use a looser grip on my wheel and it centers itself fairly well with 6* or so of caster angle

 

[Boonie Buster]

Neither a steering stabilizer or hydro assist will mask bump steer. They may stop the small fast movements but not the big overall movement. Something has to move when the axle compresses and it is probably going to be your steering wheel. I just use a looser grip on my wheel and it centers itself fairly well with 6* or so of caster angle

ya, i guess i remember it doing it still over the big bumps, but the stabilizer soaked up the little junk which i liked a lot...