I need more brake power...

[Maverick26]

I dont know what the F is going on with my brakes on the buggy but they suck ass. I am running new 1/2 ton calipers all the way around and a 1" willwood master for each axle. My pedals are now built with the right ratio and all my lines are hard line less a few small rubber lines at the 4 corners. After I reworked the pedals it worked better but it still stops/ holds the buggy like ****. A friend of mine said my masters are too weak but a lot of people use these willwood masters. He uses a F350 master. Any ideas?

 

[messix]

1" bore for each axel is way to big. going to a smaller master with give the pedal more power but longer travel.

 

[Binder]

Also you have a auto right? Whats the idle RPM of the engine and stall speed of the torque converter?......It can be tricky getting the brakes right in these rigs.

 

[Maverick26]

Hmmm... so maybe a 3/4" master would be better?

Rick I do have an auto, I think the stall is 1800. I can put it in gear and it wont move if it is at idle. I am almost sure its the brakes that are not putting out.

 

[Binder]

Hmmm... so maybe a 3/4" master would be better?

Rick I do have an auto, I think the stall is 1800. I can put it in gear and it wont move if it is at idle. I am almost sure its the brakes that are not putting out.

Under what conditions are you having issues with the brakes?

 

[Maverick26]

Down hill and doing digs. It seems that it can still drive right though the brakes. I have to push on the pedals like I want to brake them in half.

 

[Binder]

Yeah it sounds like you just need more assist on your brakes. I put a power assist on mine but that may or may not be the right thing for yours. Maybe someone with the Willwood pedals can chime in on how theirs works?

 

[messix]

Hmmm... so maybe a 3/4" master would be better?

Rick I do have an auto, I think the stall is 1800. I can put it in gear and it wont move if it is at idle. I am almost sure its the brakes that are not putting out.

if your running dual m/c you should go even smaller. a 1" should be able to run both ends at once.

smaller bore give better leverage.

 

[Maverick26]

Ok that makes sence. Thanks guys. I think I may try and run both axles on one MC. Then install some CNC cutting brakes for the rear. Its hard for me to only hit the rear brakes on my rig cause its so tight. I dont know... Ill see what I can do.

 

[64FJ40]

Is there any way you can shorten the fulcrum length to the master cylinder rod on your brake pedal arm?

Essentially, it's the same thing as swapping in a master with a smaller bore (adding mechanical advantage) but I don't know if it's possible with your setup.

 

[Hellbilly]

Nate runs 3/4 rear and a 7/8 front his brakes work good he's running the same 1/2 ton calipers as you also.

If you want to try this set up I have them on my car (brand new) If they work for you you can just order me new ones.

 

[Maverick26]

Maybe... Ill take a look at that... that could be the cheapest rout. Do you happen to know how much I would have to move it in order to notice a difference?

 

[Maverick26]

Nate runs 3/4 rear and a 7/8 front his brakes work good he's running the same 1/2 ton calipers as you also.

If you want to try this set up I have them on my car (brand new) If they work for you you can just order me new ones.

I am gonna try moving the pedal pivit point first then if that dont work I will shoot you a PM. Thanks man.

 

[Maverick26]

HellBilly, why do you need 2 different size bores for front and rear? I notice that my fronts lock up better then my rears do on 1" MCs. Why is that if the calipers are the same? My fronts lock up good now so maybe I will just try your 7/8 or 3/4 on the rear only, along with moving the pivit point it may work good. I will pm you tho either way. Thanks.

 

[Hip]

i havent got mine running yet but when i purchased my willwood master cylinders i talked to the guy and he suggested 7/8 bore for mine. also have chevy 1/2t all the way around with seperate front and rear....

its really nice having you lead in the buggy building process im learning a lot from your build....:kiss:

 

[Maverick26]

i havent got mine running yet but when i purchased my willwood master cylinders i talked to the guy and he suggested 7/8 bore for mine. also have chevy 1/2t all the way around with seperate front and rear....

its really nice having you lead in the buggy building process im learning a lot from your build....:kiss:

Ya well maybe you can take me out for a beer since I have been taking all the heat from parts that dont work. :booo: Oh well, its just money. I need to get a PSC pump too cause mine started making a little noise this weekend. The stock pump didnt like all the front digs I had to do. I am not sure what I could use the 1" masters for now that I have them. Maybe sell them on ebay.

 

[Hellbilly]

HellBilly, why do you need 2 different size bores for front and rear? I notice that my fronts lock up better then my rears do on 1" MCs. Why is that if the calipers are the same? My fronts lock up good now so maybe I will just try your 7/8 or 3/4 on the rear only, along with moving the pivit point it may work good. I will pm you tho either way. Thanks.

I'm no brake expert I bought what trevor frm S&N told me to buy!

I copy and pasted this from wilwood FAQ
A larger master cylinder bore produces more volume and a smaller master cylinder bore produces more pressure.

Are you running a proportioning valve on the rear?

 

[Maverick26]

Ok sounds good man. I will place an order soon.

 

[Hip]

ohhh by the way my brakes work pretty good except in low low ist gear they wont hole the vehicle. seems to stop ok at speed also.

 

[Not Jobless]

I'm running the Wilwood 1" MC on both axles w/Chevy 1/2 ton brakes and Wilwood pedal assembly. Far from perfect but it stops

The 1/2 ton calipers use a large volume of fluid due to the size of the piston, which is why 1" typically makes for less pedal travel.

Adding a power booster of sometype (vacuum or hydro) would help.

You can also try a different pad, Wilwood makes different compounds for those calipers, makes a big difference. This would be the least expensive and easiest thing to try before swapping out hydraulic parts.