I need more brake power...

Hip · Apr 19, 2011

in fact i just saw a thread yesterday on pirate talking about new pads to increase braking power on chevy 1/2 ton stuff. just a new pad with increased brake surface area that fits your existing caliper. reasonably priced too. ill see if i can find the thread.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=971916&highlight=brake+pads+chevy+ton

boardbysled · Apr 19, 2011

This one?

Hip · Apr 19, 2011

Hip uses the edit button for the win:redneck:

boardbysled · Apr 19, 2011

:fawkdancesmiley:

Binder · Apr 19, 2011

Hip said:
in fact i just saw a thread yesterday on pirate talking about new pads to increase braking power on chevy 1/2 ton stuff. just a new pad with increased brake surface area that fits your existing caliper. reasonably priced too. ill see if i can find the thread.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=971916&highlight=brake+pads+chevy+ton

That's a good idea! I may just try those.:beer:

Not Jobless · Apr 19, 2011

These are what I've been running from Wilwood.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-150-8939K/

They made a huge differecne as compared to off the shelf parts

jeepmauler · Apr 19, 2011

Not Jobless said:
These are what I've been running from Wilwood.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-150-8939K/

They made a huge differecne as compared to off the shelf parts

I run the same ones...Brad turned me on to them years ago and they make a huge difference. Run them only in the front or you'll lock up the rears nonstop. If you have a proportioning valve you could crank most of the pressure to the front and runnem on all for corners...I guess.....I just runnem in the front and reg compound in the rear.....on the pavement the rears will still lock up....but the brake split is pretty good.

Hip · Apr 25, 2011

jeepmauler said:
I run the same ones...Brad turned me on to them years ago and they make a huge difference. Run them only in the front or you'll lock up the rears nonstop. If you have a proportioning valve you could crank most of the pressure to the front and runnem on all for corners...I guess.....I just runnem in the front and reg compound in the rear.....on the pavement the rears will still lock up....but the brake split is pretty good.

do you have the same size bore master cylinders for both front and rear?

i have dual cylinders with the same bore size so this might help my situation some. it stops ok but id like a little more. i dont think i could "lock" em up on the street right now.

jeepmauler · Apr 25, 2011

Hip said:
do you have the same size bore master cylinders for both front and rear?

i have dual cylinders with the same bore size so this might help my situation some. it stops ok but id like a little more. i dont think i could "lock" em up on the street right now.

I have one MC..... it's a 77 Ford F-350....(it's the same one on my tow rig which is handy)... IIRC,the bore is 1.125(could be 1.190 can't remember). It is non boosted...IF it were boosted then I could easily do stoppies ON pavement....no problem.

The wilwood "fancy pads" are like magic and will make a big difference. Again...I would only run them in the front. I will try and find the part# when I get home and post it up....I got them from Summit and they are fairly inexpensive

EDIT: Brad already posted the link a few posts above

crash2 · Apr 25, 2011

jeepmauler said:
I have one MC..... it's a 77 Ford F-350....(it's the same one on my tow rig which is handy)... IIRC,the bore is 1.125(could be 1.190 can't remember). It is non boosted...IF it were boosted then I could easily do stoppies ON pavement....no problem.

The wilwood "fancy pads" are like magic and will make a big difference. Again...I would only run them in the front. I will try and find the part# when I get home and post it up....I got them from Summit and they are fairly inexpensive

EDIT: Brad already posted the link a few posts above

I think thats the same master I have been running for a long time(non boosted) but I have never been real happy. I suspect its the leverage(lack of) or ratio of the brake arm to master.

chainsaw · Apr 25, 2011

Not Jobless said:
These are what I've been running from Wilwood.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-150-8939K/

They made a huge differecne as compared to off the shelf parts

How do these do in water/mud/typical offroad BS?

jeepmauler · Apr 25, 2011

chainsaw said:
How do these do in water/mud/typical offroad BS?

Brad doesn't really get on here too much so I'll answer..The pads are unaffected by anything on the trail....I've had the same set in for 3.5 years and they are still going strong....maybe .5 gone.

chainsaw · Apr 25, 2011

Damn! I think I know my next brake pads.

Binder · Apr 25, 2011

Jeff don't those pads require a aftermarket calliper? Do they fit in a chev calliper?

jeepmauler · Apr 25, 2011

Binder said:
Jeff don't those pads require a aftermarket calliper? Do they fit in a chev calliper?

I run Chevy 1/2 ton,cheapy calipers....nothing fancy....although my drivers side front caliper is painted black:011:

Binder · Apr 25, 2011

jeepmauler said:
I run Chevy 1/2 ton,cheapy calipers....nothing fancy....although my drivers side front caliper is painted black:011:

Sweet! I'm gona order me some of those!:cheer:

Maverick26 · Apr 26, 2011

I guess to report back on this also... I just got my brakes working about 1 week ago. I striped down all the lines to the rear brakes and inspected all of the flares. We found 2 that were cracked so I re-flared those and re-installed all the lines. I was running a 3/4" willwood master for the rear and a 7/8" for the front. My front brakes locked up great but the rears were like I didnt even have calipers. I tried everything to no avail and finally I broke down and talked to Trevor (I love that guy but he makes me feel dumb) :hi: He asked me why I was running 2 different size masters for the same calipers? I could not come up with an answer so he told me that the 3/4" master does not push enough fluid to even actuate the 1/2 ton chev. calipers. You only use a 3/4" master when you are running S10 calipers. 7/8" is the min size needed to make the 1/2 ton calipers work. I had a 1" laying around the shop so I bolted that in and sure as ****....

I can stop now!!!

I also talked to Jeff about these Willwood pads and may be upgrading SOON.

Hip · Apr 26, 2011

Maverick26 said:
I guess to report back on this also... I just got my brakes working about 1 week ago. I striped down all the lines to the rear brakes and inspected all of the flares. We found 2 that were cracked so I re-flared those and re-installed all the lines. I was running a 3/4" willwood master for the rear and a 7/8" for the front. My front brakes locked up great but the rears were like I didnt even have calipers. I tried everything to no avail and finally I broke down and talked to Trevor (I love that guy but he makes me feel dumb) :hi: He asked me why I was running 2 different size masters for the same calipers? I could not come up with an answer so he told me that the 3/4" master does not push enough fluid to even actuate the 1/2 ton chev. calipers. You only use a 3/4" master when you are running S10 calipers. 7/8" is the min size needed to make the 1/2 ton calipers work. I had a 1" laying around the shop so I bolted that in and sure as ****....

I can stop now!!!

I also talked to Jeff about these Willwood pads and may be upgrading SOON.

the guy at willwood said the different size masters will also create the 60/40 bias for brake power as the front has more weight so you have more stopping power for a street application. after talking for a while they suggested 7/8 bore for both front and rear on my setup.