I'm scared

money_pit_yj · Dec 21, 2015

At the toy run, we were on Brokefoot. It was slick and my steering wasn't working right so I was going to pull out the left side right over the little ledge. Kevin Humphrey was telling me to turn full left hammer down and stay in it...well every time I would get close I would let out, and finally realized I am scared. I am not scared to hurt myself or anything like that, I just do not like breaking parts. I understand it is part of the game, but when I rode fourwheelers and other stuff, I knew how hard I could push something before it would break. I don't have the time, money, or tech skills to fix a bunch of stuff I break so I am happy just being on the trails and riding, but I also think I could probably push my rig harder than I do. I'm running a big block, Stock 60/14bolt, 205 on 42s and leaf springs. I know there are areas to upgrade, but how long and hard have you guys run a similar axle setup and what is the weak link?

poolman · Dec 21, 2015

The first thing I started breaking was the stub shafts and joints. Upgraded those and haven't had any issues with the front axle.

muddinmetal · Dec 21, 2015

money_pit_yj said:
At the toy run, we were on Brokefoot. It was slick and my steering wasn't working right so I was going to pull out the left side right over the little ledge. Kevin Humphrey was telling me to turn full left hammer down and stay in it...well every time I would get close I would let out, and finally realized I am scared. I am not scared to hurt myself or anything like that, I just do not like breaking parts. I understand it is part of the game, but when I rode fourwheelers and other stuff, I knew how hard I could push something before it would break. I don't have the time, money, or tech skills to fix a bunch of stuff I break so I am happy just being on the trails and riding, but I also think I could probably push my rig harder than I do. I'm running a big block, Stock 60/14bolt, 205 on 42s and leaf springs. I know there are areas to upgrade, but how long and hard have you guys run a similar axle setup and what is the weak link?

Buy you some decent ujoints and 35 spline moly outers with flanges and wheel brother. It doesn't like you want to beat it too much harder and you pay attention to your rig, you should be fine

rpf500 · Dec 21, 2015

Yep, what those guys said.

zjtrey · Dec 21, 2015

what front axle shafts are you running? If you're running stock outers they'll break first... get some good quality chromo front axles and u joints and you will be very surprised at the beatings they'll take..

what about your steering knuckles also? if you're running some stock knuckles, always make sure the high steer studs are tight... if you can afford some solid industries knuckles, they're the ****... if you can't gusset the stock knuckles and they'll take a lot more...

a better idea of exactly what you're running will help with getting an idea of what she'll take... Once you get a more solid front end, you'll be less worried about breaking and have a clearer mind while driving and have a lot more fun out wheeling.. just my 2 cents... good luck!

tonybolton · Dec 21, 2015

Re:

I'm sorta in the same boat as you. I usually base the stuff I buy on "worst case scenario" situations.

Worst case to me is to have a wheel fall off and not be able to be towed or limp out. So there was money spent on the knuckles and all that jazz.

My next area of concern is the D300. It has the 32 spline big stuff...but I know the case is weakest. That being said you won't see me stay in the gas while its hopping. I'll winch.

Everything else I'm pretty confident in. I still run 30$ Spicer u joints in the front and I'm shocked they can take what they do.

Lastly, I always remind myself I bought a winch for a reason...and it wasn't looks.

money_pit_yj · Dec 21, 2015

zjtrey said:
what front axle shafts are you running? If you're running stock outers they'll break first... get some good quality chromo front axles and u joints and you will be very surprised at the beatings they'll take..

what about your steering knuckles also? if you're running some stock knuckles, always make sure the high steer studs are tight... if you can afford some solid industries knuckles, they're the ****... if you can't gusset the stock knuckles and they'll take a lot more...

a better idea of exactly what you're running will help with getting an idea of what she'll take... Once you get a more solid front end, you'll be less worried about breaking and have a clearer mind while driving and have a lot more fun out wheeling.. just my 2 cents... good luck!

All stock CUCV axle with a Yukon Locker

money_pit_yj · Dec 21, 2015

Re:

tonybolton said:
I'm sorta in the same boat as you. I usually base the stuff I buy on "worst case scenario" situations.

Worst case to me is to have a wheel fall off and not be able to be towed or limp out. So there was money spent on the knuckles and all that jazz.

My next area of concern is the D300. It has the 32 spline big stuff...but I know the case is weakest. That being said you won't see me stay in the gas while its hopping. I'll winch.

Everything else I'm pretty confident in. I still run 30$ Spicer u joints in the front and I'm shocked they can take what they do.

Lastly, I always remind myself I bought a winch for a reason...and it wasn't looks.

Maybe when you get ready to graduate to stickies you can sell me your current tires and I can just get all your old stuff as you wear it out and pass it on

tonybolton · Dec 21, 2015

Re:

No stickies....I ride waaaay to much to justify 2500$ in tires every year. These non sticky sxs still look new after a year....aside from some rounding on outside edges.

al1tonyota · Dec 21, 2015

Like others have said 35 spline chromo stubs, Are you running full hydro steering? knuckles ehhh I wouldn't till I had a problem, driveshafts and ujoint setup has always been high on my list, nothing worse than a u joint or strap breaking and taking out other stuff around it! Track bars help keep leaf springs and driveshafts happy!

money_pit_yj · Dec 21, 2015

al1tonyota said:
Like others have said 35 spline chromo stubs, Are you running full hydro steering? knuckles ehhh I wouldn't till I had a problem, driveshafts and ujoint setup has always been high on my list, nothing worse than a u joint or strap breaking and taking out other stuff around it! Track bars help keep leaf springs and driveshafts happy!

Working on full hydro right now. To make sure I don't break the knuckles with the steering, I am going to set it up with about a 1/2" less stroke total and use a block in the cylinder so when I hit full lock the cylinder stop is taking the pressure and no the knuckle...right? I am also building a antiwrap track bar for the front, back is fine

al1tonyota · Dec 21, 2015

All 1350 joints? Single cardan?

al1tonyota · Dec 21, 2015

What trans? If auto a cooler with a fan extends the life and beat down time booyang

muddinmetal · Dec 21, 2015

al1tonyota said:
What trans? If auto a cooler with a fan extends the life and beat down time

^^^^ Running an automatic trans in the woods without a cooler is a sure recipe for disaster.... as far away from the trailer as possible

pholmann · Dec 21, 2015

Beat it til it breaks something then replace it with stock. If it breaks again, you will know its time to upgrade that part.

money_pit_yj · Dec 21, 2015

al1tonyota said:
All 1350 joints? Single cardan?

Yes Double. TH350. Fans and coolers all work, only time it ever gets hot is when I forget to turn the fan on. My biggest area of concern is the axles. Not for any reason other than I have never dealt with ton stuff so I am not sure how much they can take with the 42s. Obviously I need to invest in chromolly shafts ad good joints and fix that before I link the rear. As of right now the suspension has not limited me so there is no need to upgrade.

Mortalis5509 · Dec 21, 2015

Re: Re: I'm scared

money_pit_yj said:
Working on full hydro right now. To make sure I don't break the knuckles with the steering, I am going to set it up with about a 1/2" less stroke total and use a block in the cylinder so when I hit full lock the cylinder stop is taking the pressure and no the knuckle...right? I am also building a antiwrap track bar for the front, back is fine

The ram and steering stops should stop at the same time, even if you limit the ram. Adjust your steering stops to match as well.

tonybolton · Dec 21, 2015

Re:

I like the way you think.....good axles in the front and some greasable spicer joints and I'd say you'd be good to go!

1tonrenegade · Dec 21, 2015

I ran stock knuckles an 30 spline outters bout 2 years before I broke one. I was running leafs f/r an beat on it good like pholmann said beat it till it breaks

tonybolton · Dec 21, 2015

Re:

Breaking 3 high steer studs was enough for me to change. I've seen enough broken knuckles to know I don't wanna repair that in a big mud puddle.