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Keep Breaking Axels

Caddishack18 said:
Put a straight edge on it. your tube is bent at the housing. What else breaks the same axle at the same place?? Do you keep hitting the same rock? Its the housing!
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I will pull some lines on it. When it hops, it seems to land on that corner. I have seen the splines twist 2.5 splines when doing repairs. They break at about 3 spline twist.

It is sitting on the lift now. Anyone see an issue with letting it down on the floor (or close) and measuring between the floor and the axel tube? Floor is level. How much out is bent? Is 1/16" out OK?? Where would this become the problem, 1/4", 1/2", 3".
 
dont build weakness into your axle! not sure on the other times you broke it but it was a nice hop and hard landing on sat. i would focus on length of inner and bent housing. if those are not the problem get yourself a custom superior inner or similar. better to replace 1 ring and pinion a year than 10 axles!
 
Matt O. said:
dont build weakness into your axle! not sure on the other times you broke it but it was a nice hop and hard landing on sat. i would focus on length of inner and bent housing. if those are not the problem get yourself a custom superior inner or similar. better to replace 1 ring and pinion a year than 10 axles!
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It was a hard enough hop to bend the wheel (actually the beadlock ring) and the tire started leaking. May need to go up on tire pressure, running 7 front and 5 1/2 rear. I will check both the housing and how to measure for the axle. The axle definately barely fit. First time installed, the spindle would not tighten down, we ground it off until it fit.
 
If you are seeing twist, it might not be bent. check anyway. A bent housing bends the axle back and forth every revolution at the same spot.
 
John Galbreath Jr. said:
Any thoughts on AlloyUSA? I see they have a 10 year warranty.
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warrenties are good till you break 'em enough that they get tired of replacing them(warn)
 
If you put a straight end of the bottom of the axle that is 2-3 foot long you should be able to see an airgap somewhere if it is bent.
 
TwinStick said:
If you put a straight end of the bottom of the axle that is 2-3 foot long you should be able to see an airgap somewhere if it is bent.
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It might not be bent up, it might be bent back.
 
John Galbreath Jr. said:
Any thoughts on AlloyUSA? I see they have a 10 year warranty.
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thats what i run... one broken outer, still the same inners since i put them in a year or so ago... but i only use mine to gather firewood about twice a year.... :****:
 
draggbody said:
thats what i run... one broken outer, still the same inners since i put them in a year or so ago... but i only use mine to gather firewood about twice a year.... :****:
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I wanted a real wheelers opinion, not some manby pamby mall crawler. I can wheel harder than you in my moms Lexus. :flipoff1:
 
Caddishack18 said:
It might not be bent up, it might be bent back.
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Thanks for that. It'll take a little more head scratching to measure that. Will do it tonight. If it matters, this is a Solid (RockCrusher) steering axel in the rear.
 
John Galbreath Jr. said:
I wanted a real wheelers opinion, not some manby pamby mall crawler. I can wheel harder than you in my moms Lexus. :flipoff1:
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molaugh laughing1 molaugh
 
I would definetly get off the yukon train. whats the length of your shaft. If this is a custom length shaft and your using yukons. The word on the street is that there shafts were not inductioned hardened only surfaced hardened and when they were cutting and splining blanks it was going past the hardening leaving them very vulnerable to trailer aproaches. Superior inners are not nearly expensive as there outers. the alloy and ten factory shafts are inuductioned hardened and are quality but for a bit more you could do a superior. id say anything over 1/4 inch axle bendage could cause a problem. Your going to have a hard time finding a blank to have cut if you do have a custom shaft, superior, yukon, ten factory, alloy all out. I sold my last blank yesterday, and sold a blank i had splined for a precut as a a short blank today. Let me know what you have and ill give you some options. You may have to go to CTM to have anything immediatly.
 
ECGS said:
I would definetly get off the yukon train. whats the length of your shaft. If this is a custom length shaft and your using yukons. The word on the street is that there shafts were not inductioned hardened only surfaced hardened and when they were cutting and splining blanks it was going past the hardening leaving them very vulnerable to trailer aproaches. Superior inners are not nearly expensive as there outers. the alloy and ten factory shafts are inuductioned hardened and are quality but for a bit more you could do a superior. id say anything over 1/4 inch axle bendage could cause a problem. Your going to have a hard time finding a blank to have cut if you do have a custom shaft, superior, yukon, ten factory, alloy all out. I sold my last blank yesterday, and sold a blank i had splined for a precut as a a short blank today. Let me know what you have and ill give you some options. You may have to go to CTM to have anything immediatly.
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I think I'll go another way from Yukon. I will have them replace the two I have broke now under warranty. Thay are custom length. As they have been out of blanks, they have been sending me long side shafts, and I have been having them cut down and splined at my expense.

I don't know the exact length, but right at 24" (shaft length, not to ear center).

I hear CTM are stupid expensive, but I want whatever will not keep breaking. I have no problem getting a long side shaft and cut it down, if that will make the process quicker.

Would AlloyUSA or Superior be the best???? CTM worth the money?
 
John Galbreath Jr. said:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I think I'll go another way from Yukon. I will have them replace the two I have broke now under warranty. Thay are custom length. As they have been out of blanks, they have been sending me long side shafts, and I have been having them cut down and splined at my expense.

I don't know the exact length, but right at 24" (shaft length, not to ear center).

I hear CTM are stupid expensive, but I want whatever will not keep breaking. I have no problem getting a long side shaft and cut it down, if that will make the process quicker.

Would AlloyUSA or Superior be the best???? CTM worth the money?
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Jon I dont think AlloyUSA is around now, and if they are you don't want their stuff. Lots of folks have been breaking their stuff and if you search on PBB you will see what I mean. The TenFactory stuff is from the guy that started Alloy I think. Superior is gonna be your best bet, unless you go with 300m from superior or spidertrax
 
So far I've broke a short side inner at the splines, twisted the splines on a stub, exploded a Spicer forged body u-joint and twisted the splines on another short side inner. All this in a 4,000lb Stock Mod with a 5.3 and 35" Maxxis non-sticky Creepys. My Longfield 300m 60 CVs will be here on Friday. I think the Yukon and Alloy shafts are just junk now.
 
P said:
Longfield CV's drool Thats 100% sexy stuff right there !! :dblthumb:
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I hate going away from the CTM/Yukon SuperJoint aas I have a lot of $$$ in them, and that part is not breaking!!!
 
I like the minimum effort of maintenance they require , and I am sure they are smooth sum bee's operation wise. If I had your money Id run them in errr thing ! laughing1

One day..... I could see me working into a set of them, they are HOT ! :woot:
 

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