lets talk about auto transmissions for wheeling

[nevada]

I'm not sure what your problem is, I'm running 4.88s 35s C4, Dana 20, 302. My crawl ratio is around 28:1. I've been real happy with how I can creep. My guess is you have a higher stall torque converter then me. With a higher stall TC you have to give it more gas for the TC to lockup, which makes your tires spin giving the feeling of higher gears. I'm running a pretty stock 302, and I believe my TC is stock as well which is 800 stall, It locks up instantly. :awesomework:

its a stock 800rpm converter.

are u locked front and rear? throw some 38's on there..then get in the DEEP wet snow, or mud...then tell me how the gearing feels.

when all 4 are getting bogged in deep stuff..it runs out of power/gear VERY quickly.

 

[410ZukiGirl]

its a stock 800rpm converter.

locked front and rear? throw some 38's on there..then get in the DEEP wet snow, or mud...then tell me how the geering feels.

when all 4 are getting bogged in deep stuff..it runs out of power/gear VERY quickly.

folks here only wheel rocks, duh! yours wont even spin them up and clean out the lugs if its deep/sticky enough. Its really frustrating isnt it?

I fully agree with ya, an auto sucks for gearing in the NW woods trails. Combine that with a heavy rig = trip to tranny shop for rebuild.

its a catch 22 kinda. A v8 stick rig has tons of gearing and power, a v8 auto rig sucks without dual cases or 4-1 gears.
A crappy 4 cyl NEEDS duals and a stick.

So I guess if you have about 200 extra ls1 horses left over then maybe an auto with one low range works for you, but some of us are poor folks with sticks.:redneck:

 

[Hip]

ok kids we are getting off track here. i asked a specific question and would like an answer from someone with the experiance.

this is not a debate on what works better (auto or manual) its about auto trannys for wheeling....stay tuned for some learning on what does work and why....

rant off:redneck:

 

[Not Jobless]

ok kids we are getting off track here. i asked a specific question and would like an answer from someone with the experiance.

this is not a debate on what works better (auto or manual) its about auto trannys for wheeling....stay tuned for some learning on what does work and why....

rant off:redneck:

There is nothing to learn.

Both work just fine, it's simply a matter of personal preferance.

 

[nevada]

ok kids we are getting off track here. i asked a specific question and would like an answer from someone with the experiance.

this is not a debate on what works better (auto or manual) its about auto trannys for wheeling....stay tuned for some learning on what does work and why....

rant off:redneck:

off track? how so?

i typed a long response...than decided **** it...u wouldnt listen anyway....

 

[Dan76]

its a stock 800rpm converter.

are u locked front and rear? throw some 38's on there..then get in the DEEP wet snow, or mud...then tell me how the gearing feels.

when all 4 are getting bogged in deep stuff..it runs out of power/gear VERY quickly.

Yes I'm locked front and rear, I've never had a problem bogging down and running out of power. I wouldn't run 38s unless I had the mods to support them which I don't.
Not really sure how this is off track, you never really asked a specific question and we are answering your torque converter question...

 

[Boonie Buster]

39's w/ 5.13 gears, 700r4, in 4 high all day saturday, no loss of power until i got into a twisted up mess and had to put a case into 4 low to back out, other than that, all the hill climbs were done with ease in 4 high... London Gentleman can vouch, he drove it like a bawler! :awesomework:

 

[Hip]

so what is the "issue" you dont like with the low stall and what do you hope to gain?

the question asked and not answered yet....?

 

[Not Jobless]

the question asked and not answered yet....?

One of the issues with low stall converters and the lower gearing found in trailered rigs is braking. You may have the tendancy to drive through the brakes even at idle.

 

[Hip]

[i typed a long response...than decided **** it...u wouldnt listen anyway....[/quote]


so you know me so well:kiss:
if your long responce was to anything about stall speeds i would love to hear it as the reason i asked these questions is because i am not familiar with automatics in a wheeling application and am going auto with the current project.

 

[Hip]

One of the issues with low stall converters and the lower gearing found in trailered rigs is braking. You may have the tendancy to drive through the brakes even at idle.

cool thats what i needed. so i was gonna run the stock converter whatever stall it is.

so if i cant stop it you need a higher stall speed?

which allows more slippage but generates more heat?

 

[nevada]

One of the issues with low stall converters and the lower gearing found in trailered rigs is braking. You may have the tendancy to drive through the brakes even at idle.

yes, that happens. i think less likely with rear disc tho...

but i think the drivetrain would last longer with a lower stall..versus a high stall converter..
atleast thats my thought. itd get more linear power, and not a sudden HIT, at 2k, or whatever stall u had.
not too mention driveability would be easier with a low stall..

 

[2pwrlftrs4u]

:jack:

if you were trying to get away from the 999, whats the best/easiest auto swap for the 4.0 that will adapt to a D300 (pass drop). i know lots of people use the AW4.

 

[Hip]

i did have to ditch the dual callipers on the front for stock but i did get the larger bore caliper for the stock calipers on the front.

i have a really great tranny cooler so heat should not be too much problem.

but id really only like to do this once so if i can figure out what i will want now would be better.

Brad what stall speed are you running?

 

[jeepmauler]

I have a 2K stall in my C-6...It "CAN" drive throught the brakes but I don't let it Going down something like the rock face or something of that nature(if I'm not in high range) I'll put the trans in 2nd gear and it's not a problem.I also use my rear cutting brakes to supliment the brake peddel.If yer really concerned about it put a 2500 stall and with your BIG cooler you'll be fine

 

[Hip]

Thanks for the info...

 

[Roccrawler]

T-400 and a atlas 4.1, full manual valve body and 1850 stall .. works great..as mentioned below if you are feeling like its driving through brakes go into 2nd. I use to run 6.17 gears and went to 5.38 and it actually crawls better with the taller gear.. and wheel speed is never an issue for me

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

so what is the "issue" you dont like with the low stall and what do you hope to gain?

Being able to launch harder at big obstacles and get the real power to the wheels quicker, like on the left side of the rock face and big climbs. It would be better if I had a V8. I dont think my stock converter is very efficient either. We will see if its worth the money when I swap it out.

For guys complaining about an auto....you just dont have it geared right, once you do you cant beat it for technical wheelin.

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

:jack:

if you were trying to get away from the 999, whats the best/easiest auto swap for the 4.0 that will adapt to a D300 (pass drop). i know lots of people use the AW4.

what the matter with the 999? I havent broke it yet

 

[nevada]

Being able to launch harder at big obstacles and get the real power to the wheels quicker, like on the left side of the rock face and big climbs. It would be better if I had a V8. I dont think my stock converter is very efficient either. We will see if its worth the money when I swap it out.

For guys complaining about an auto....you just dont have it geared right, once you do you cant beat it for technical wheelin.

we will see.
by geared right..i assume u mean dual cases, or lower case gears...

or we arent "rock crawlers"