• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Let's talk cutting brakes

blacksheep10 said:
why was I thinking that some dune buggies had 1 lever that you pushed for one brake and pulled for another? push for right brake, pull for left. 1 handle. how often do you rear dig?
Click to expand...

that's what I was sayin... I think that'd be the ****. or wyatt's setup.. I don't see need for a rear burn feature...

damn front rear side to side way to technical for me, I'll juzz hit the GAS PEDAL! :flipoff1:
 
Kelly seriously?

I use the fawk out of the single rear corner lockup. We used it every race in Alabama. Going around almost every corner, I would grab the inside tire lever and pull.
I thought you had the hang of what was going on. Now I know why the couple times you grabbed, you knocked us out of gear.
You grab that inside rear tire and it pull the frontend around on a pivot. Was super helpful at the tops of those climbs where we stayed on it into the hairpin where you were pointed right back down hill.

Additionally, I watched Derek West final three runs in the run off and he was running the brakes the exact same way.
Now granted you cant do that with a welded rear. But with a Detroit, you are money.

I see no need for seperate front brakes, unless you are grabbing them on an aborted acsent and are starting to come back down the hill.
 
InDaShop said:
Additionally, I watched Derek West final three runs in the run off and he was running the brakes the exact same way.
Now granted you cant do that with a welded rear. But with a Detroit, you are money.

I see no need for seperate front brakes, unless you are grabbing them on an aborted acsent and are starting to come back down the hill.
Click to expand...

ah **** this is the first time ever I'll be running with an actual locker in the rear---I didn't even think about it but now I'll be able to do cutting brakes... doh :woody: Now ya got me plannin on spendin more $$ Wyatt... :dunno: :flipgotcha:

front brakes I could only see for burnout competition or line lock as some sort of theft preventative measure...
 
rear burns are plenty helpful in crawlin - maybe not racin

also rear burnouts are sometimes necessary to heat up tires.


Everyone seems to be missing the fact that a one handled single MC one will only have one MC to actuate 2 calipers
You'll more than likely need to use the brake pedal to assist the handle

A MC on the handles for each caliper is ideal due to shear volume of fluid your trying to move
 
rockwild said:
rear burns are plenty helpful in crawlin - maybe not racin

also rear burnouts are sometimes necessary to heat up tires.


Everyone seems to be missing the fact that a one handled single MC one will only have one MC to actuate 2 calipers
You'll more than likely need to use the brake pedal to assist the handle

A MC on the handles for each caliper is ideal due to shear volume of fluid your trying to move
Click to expand...

one MC is for 1 caliper left, 1 caliper right.. not both at same time...

man I got a real cool clip of robert lucero motoring around a tight dirt corner using his cutting brake, it's pretty damn amazing what it does for turning or pivoting on 1 wheel..

with wyatt's you have both brakes or either brake all at your fingertips I just don't know that I'd be able to choose which stick to pull quickly enough cause I'm kinda derr da derr..
 
MUCHADO said:
one MC is for 1 caliper left, 1 caliper right.. not both at same time...

man I got a real cool clip of robert lucero motoring around a tight dirt corner using his cutting brake, it's pretty damn amazing what it does for turning or pivoting on 1 wheel..

with wyatt's you have both brakes or either brake all at your fingertips I just don't know that I'd be able to choose which stick to pull quickly enough cause I'm kinda derr da derr..
Click to expand...

Rob, I've only got 1 MC for the whole rig. From the back of my MC there is a "T" 1 line for front, and 1 line for rear (that you see coming into my cutting break handles).

If the levers are close to you and not a reach, with minimal seat time you'll easily just react and grab the correct handle. I was worried about that as well. No dedahhdee just clumsy.
 
what MC are you running on the pedal? it's enough to tee off like that?

rob- if you get the push pull deal and do left/right rear with it you won't be able to grab both rears simultaneously
this is helpful with nothing to pivot on
or even decents


Wyatt - when racing are you leaving it in 4wd with a detroit rear and pulling the inside lever?
Under power this won't do anything will it?

I saw derick west do an AMAZING turn at RROCK on flat ground with lots of throttle and asked him how he did it. Rear arb off, pull inside rear brake and apply enough throttle to get em to break loose. Then the next rig went to do the same turn and had to stop, try to disengage the rear output and do a front dig - not so impressive and not as effective. Just that one turn Derrick was probably 15 seconds faster than anyone else
 
Wilwood. Yes leaving it in 4wheel. I dont think the Detroit ratches at all, it doesn't stop that wheel thats for sure but it creates enough drag that the car pivots on that point.

What you said about Derek makes sense, because he could fully lock each rear wheel on the turns.
 
I found the kind of cutting brake I initially imagined. It has only 1 line in and 1 line out so I could lock up both wheels. Now I have to figure out if that's what I want.

http://polyperformance.com/shop/Series-412-Staging-Brake-In-Line-Hand-Brake-p-2177.html

d_2387-01.jpg
 
FYI, I ordered the dual handled cutting brake from poly today. If the single handle/single cylinder was cheaper that might have put me over the edge but even then a bunch of surfing around pirate had me convinced that the double would be useful from time to time. I plan to plumb it with one line to each rear wheel, as opposed to a line to the front and a line to the back. I've had luck with putting it in rear wheel drive and overpowering the brake for rear diggs, even though I've never done it on an actual obstacle.

Thanks for all the advice everybody.
 
vanguard said:
FYI, I ordered the dual handled cutting brake from poly today. If the single handle/single cylinder was cheaper that might have put me over the edge but even then a bunch of surfing around pirate had me convinced that the double would be useful from time to time. I plan to plumb it with one line to each rear wheel, as opposed to a line to the front and a line to the back. I've had luck with putting it in rear wheel drive and overpowering the brake for rear diggs, even though I've never done it on an actual obstacle.

Thanks for all the advice everybody.
Click to expand...
You'll love it! Promise or my name isn't Thomas Jefferson.
 
blacksheep10 said:
um, yeah seriously. I'm welded in the rear, don't need a cutting brake on the front, I only need 1 handle to do the rear. carrier's welded. takes a whole new carrier to put a locker in. not gonna happen. 1 handle it is. new rig might be diff
Click to expand...

That was in reference to post #20 not post #22.
 
I have heard that certain types of cutting brake manuvers require an ARB or other selectable locker? What would I be able to do with two handle cutting brakes and full Detroits front and rear? Would I be able to do those sweet XRRA uphill turns like most of the guys did by locking the rear up completely and letting the front drag around?
 
BamaTJ said:
I have heard that certain types of cutting brake manuvers require an ARB or other selectable locker? What would I be able to do with two handle cutting brakes and full Detroits front and rear? Would I be able to do those sweet XRRA uphill turns like most of the guys did by locking the rear up completely and letting the front drag around?
Click to expand...
Based on my experience I tend to spin without going anywhere when I try to front dig uphill. On level ground and downhill I can do cool digs that impress my friends. Maybe locking one tire will help with uphill digs?

Based on what I read on pirate, if you only lock up one wheel you'll mostly just drag that wheel as you go straighter than you had planned unless you hook the locked wheel on a rock, in a hole, etc.

Some people lock one wheel, unlock the rear axle, keep it in 4wd, and drive three wheels forward as they pivot around one cutting braked wheel. However, my buddy with this setup says it's not the magic one dreams of.

I hope that helped.
 
link geometry also dictates how well front digs work. Jimbro has mega anti-squat built into his suspension. When he locks up the rear and goes front only his buggy squats and digs hard.

On the fip side, Carl's buggy does the opposite, front digs work in situations I have never seen like uphill etc because his suspension remains neutral.
 
blacksheep10 said:
why was I thinking that some dune buggies had 1 lever that you pushed for one brake and pulled for another? push for right brake, pull for left. 1 handle. how often do you rear dig?
Click to expand...
what I mean by rear dig is this. a front dig to me is holding the rear brakes and spinning the front tires. thus front digging.
how often do you rear dig meaning no need for cutters on the front tires to spin rears only, thus rear dig.
 
blacksheep10 said:
what I mean by rear dig is this. a front dig to me is holding the rear brakes and spinning the front tires. thus front digging.
how often do you rear dig meaning no need for cutters on the front tires to spin rears only, thus rear dig.
Click to expand...

I use it about 5% of the time compared to front dig. I chose on my new buggy to just have one handle to control both of the rear brakes (spool)

When I need to do a rear dig I will just hold the foot brake and power through them.
 

Latest posts

Random media

1011080015.jpg
CIMG0451.jpg
matt's xj3.jpg
image.jpg
20220430_141451.mp4
knuckles.jpg
9DB791F7-6673-4ED4-8D95-22F2EEE60C63.jpeg
Nuzzy2.jpg
USB Pics 2779.jpg
Back
Top