Link material an size

[Rockwells607]

I've been runnin 1.75 Dom .25 wall with little issue and 3/4" chromo Heims , just started breaking Heims so I bought 1.25 Heims and gonna build new bars as well, I have bent .25 wall links but never kinked them, since I am upgrading Heims I'm thinkin of goin to 2" Dom 1/2" wall or 2.5" 7075 solid almn. Any input or ideas on strength or other options? Neither of my options are cheap material so I wanna do it once

 

[wizzo]

if you have room for 2.5 solid 7075 aluminum, that would be my vote. i run 2" solid 7075, after a couple years of hard wheel'n and a little race'n, so far so good. but after seeing the 2.5 it makes the 2" look tiny. if you go the aluminum route, make sure you get 7075. do not let anyone talk you into anything else. i promise 6061 WILL BEND, i've seen it first hand. i got my 7075 from wide open design.

 

[Elliott]

I run 2 1/4" 7075 lowers and 2" 6061 on my uppers, both with 1 1/4" Heims, the 6061 will hold up fine for uppers and save you $300. But the 6061 lowers will bend and crack like previously posted.

 

[patooyee]

Have any of you ever looked up the weight per inch on this stuff?

2.5 7075 solid, 36" piece = 17.84 lbs.

2 x .25 HT 4340 chromo, 36" piece = 14 lbs.

I think they're roughly the same price and the 4340 steel is lighter and stronger. So why does everyone like solid aluminum links?

 

[pachary]

Re:

Aren't the aluminum ones more likely to return to straight when they do bend?

I know steel stays bent.

 

[Rockwells607]

I've Been wondering weight numbers myself, honestly if 1/2" thick tubing on the lowers is only 30-40lbs heavier total and they are bomb proof and cheaper...I'm all over it

 

[patooyee]

Here's what Heretic Fab says about hsi own 4130 HT links for what tis worth.

"Heat treated links are highly resistant to any permanent bends and are almost scratch proof."

There's TONS of discussion about it on Pirate.

I have Heretic rear lowers on my rig. When you feel them in your hand it is like holding some sort of alien material. Its just feels impossible to ever bend under any load and you can't scratch it ... period. I tried cutting it once with a band saw and it ruined my blade, barely scratched the material. I've held 2.25 7075 and did not get nearly the same feeling from it.

I don't know the answers. I'm legitimately curious.

 

[pachary]

Re:

Oh, that exotic stuff is over my head!

I'm just talking about regular DOM.

 

[patooyee]

Then yes, I think what you said is true when comparing 7075 to mild DOM.

I could be wrong, but I think the same is true for HT chromo compared to 7075 though. (Chromo is more likely to return to straight than 7075 and also harder to bend in the first place.) Being that they are roughly the same price and the chromo is lighter, why would anyone want 7075?

 

[Rockwells607]

Heretic fab looks nice but 185$ a link makes them the most expensive of the three options, does also look like the lightest of three if that's in anyone's formula

 

[pachary]

Re:

Well, the 2" .25 wall stuff didn't last but about five trips on the rear lowers.

I picked up some 2.5" .5 wall this summer and we will see how it holds up this fall.

 

[patooyee]

Re:

Well, the 2" .25 wall stuff didn't last but about five trips on the rear lowers.

I picked up some 2.5" .5 wall this summer and we will see how it holds up this fall.

You're still talking about mild steel DOM, right? I use at least 3/8 wall DOM when I use it and even it bends up pretty quick.

 

[patooyee]

Heretic fab looks nice but 185$ a link makes them the most expensive of the three options, does also look like the lightest of three if that's in anyone's formula

How much are 7075 links?

 

[Rockwells607]

I can get 12' of 7075 for 385$ witch will do all four of my lowers, wide open design had a link calculator and I think it was like 125$ for mine from them per link bar, I think .25 wall dom works for most people but I'm
Wanting to move to heavier for the extreme bouncer abuse,

 

[85toyo]

When I first started my build I screwed up and bought all 1.75x.250 wall for my links. I'm not worried about the uppers but the lowers probably won't last through the first trip.

The bungs are already welded in so I was thinking about sleaving the lowers with 2x.120 wall.

Would this be a temporary solution or a waste of time?

Approx. 40" lowers on what I'm guess will be about 5500 lb rig.

 

[SomewhiteGuy]

Hows about 2" .250 wall dom with 1.5" 6061 turned to be a slip fit inside? I am considering this on the new buggy I am building.

 

[Poke]

I have been thinking about thread strength and whats less likely to strip out.

What threads will be stronger with 1.25 heims? tapped 2" .5 wall Or tapped 7075?

 

[Elliott]

If you drill your hole the right size for the tap, and tap it straight, and keep your jam nuts tights (I check mine every time right before it gets off the trailor) then you will not have any trouble with 7075 threads stripping out. I also like to use all right hand threads on my heims, it makes it a little more aggravating to adjust but once you get it set you never have to move it agian anyways.And the HT chromemoly probably are stronger but the 7075 links do seem to be holding up great also, and they look tits.Mine barely are scratched.

 

[Rockwells607]

Stripping threads doesn't seem to be anyone's issues, it's bending links with shear load so I agree with Elliot. Any of the listed options are plenty strong on threads

 

[crawlin85cj]

Re:

7075 is shiny and chicks dig shiny!!!