Link material idea

Binder · Apr 3, 2011

nowires said:
So then what would be stronger cromo tube or 7075 solid

There's a bunch of variables that would have to be addressed to answer this question. What diameter for each? What "cromo" exactly? What heat treating? Define "stronger"? To you is stronger something that will never bend, bend but not stay bent, never break?
After you have all of these answers you will need an structural engineer to answer the question accurately...

Binder · Apr 3, 2011

Here's some good reading on the subject.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1a.html

nowires · Apr 3, 2011

Binder said:
There's a bunch of variables that would have to be addressed to answer this question. What diameter for each? What "cromo" exactly? What heat treating? Define "stronger"? To you is stronger something that will never bend, bend but not stay bent, never break?
After you have all of these answers you will need an structural engineer to answer the question accurately...

This is kinda like the egg and chicken talk :awesomework:

Binder · Apr 3, 2011

nowires said:
This is kinda like the egg and chicken talk :awesomework:

It may as well be if you don't understand the questions and most people don't. Without the "chicken an egg talk" there's no answer to your question.:;

Bunk1 · Apr 3, 2011

Binder said:
Thinwall lowers will last forever if they never get used....

Absolutely. I know spidertrax is making 2 inch lowers with a .156 wall. I cant say for sure they would sell something like that for a go fast car, Or if they have length requirements for using that wall thickness. Also diameter lets them get away with that wall thickness. In a racing of very high performance aplication the budget is higher so maybee .156 is good enough to last for a few races or comps before replacing them? Maybee James will chime in here on how his spider links have faired? fwiw i have zero experience with thin wall lowers but doing as much research as i can as its the future in links.

crash2 · Apr 3, 2011

I think the biggest problem is there are too many variables to what to run.

For instance the .350 1.5" chomo lowers on my rig have not held up. On an old S&N rig they did pretty decent. Comparing my rig to an S&N they are lighter and the rears were shorter. Sure its good material but you have to take into account those variables.

Yotakid · Apr 3, 2011

Binder said:
Here's some good reading on the subject.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1a.html

My head hurts now, that is some technical stuff.

I think it answered my question though, would still be ineteresting to find out exactly what material they are made of and have someone do some testing on how brittle they really are to impacts. Although in the end probably wouldn't save much money if you have to modify the shafts. Thanks for the replies, I have some spare shafts if someone wants to try some testing

Bunk1 · Apr 3, 2011

crash said:
I think the biggest problem is there are too many variables to what to run.

For instance the .350 1.5" chomo lowers on my rig have not held up. On an old S&N rig they did pretty decent. Comparing my rig to an S&N they are lighter and the rears were shorter. Sure its good material but you have to take into account those variables.

Are your 3/8ths wall links heat treated?

crash2 · Apr 3, 2011

Bunk said:
Are your 3/8ths wall links heat treated?

Made no sense to heat treat them with mild weld in bungs for the hiems.

nick c · Apr 3, 2011

CHOP SHOP said:
You got some swapmeet louie box tube then. Or something funny is going on.

I just watched a V8 powered heavy buggy tear up the busy with all 2x2 box links that had been on it for lots of years.

Box tube is strong. Dont let one persons experience sway ya.

I have 2x2 box tube traction bars on the stomper (7500lbs) and they have been rammed into lots of cars that I have crushed and driven over. Never bent one tho.

I have seen tons of box tube links and never seen a bent one.

My 2x2 box tube came from Anthony, he's been supplying all my tube needs for a few years now.

Does that v8 buggy do anything other than run around in the mud? Dirt/mud is alot more forgiving than rocks. Pretty sure mine bent on the upper portion of Ranier Vista where they put in all the rocks.

As for a traction bar, well thats apples to oranges. I've seen traction bars made out of scabbed together square and round tube survive for years. They don't see the same loads and forces as a link.

Glenn · Apr 3, 2011

Could links be made from oval tubing? Combine the better attributes of square and round tube?

CHOP SHOP · Apr 3, 2011

nick c said:
Does that v8 buggy do anything other than run around in the mud? Dirt/mud is alot more forgiving than rocks. Pretty sure mine bent on the upper portion of Ranier Vista where they put in all the rocks.

As for a traction bar, well thats apples to oranges. I've seen traction bars made out of scabbed together square and round tube survive for years. They don't see the same loads and forces as a link.

Im pretty sure its seen years in the rocks, not just a couple ol mud runs. :;

ah yer right. Im pretty easy on the ol stomper, thats probably why they are still fine. :haha:

Bunk1 · Apr 3, 2011

crash said:
Made no sense to heat treat them with mild weld in bungs for the hiems.

Believe it or not, I know people who heat treat the chromo and then weld in the bungs..non heat treated chromo is barely stronger than mild steel.

Jaydog · Apr 3, 2011

skinny_pedal said:
Bunk

I second this Brad :awesomework:

Binder · Apr 3, 2011

Bunk said:
Believe it or not, I know people who heat treat the chromo and then weld in the bungs..non heat treated chromo is barely stronger than mild steel.

I agree. Using non heat treated cromo is a waste of money. If nothing else weld in the bungs then heat treat.......
FWIW I looked today and mine are 1 3/4" 4130 treated to 40 RC. They are 44" long.