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LS engine questions

onetoncrawler said:
I was specifically talking about the wide band 02, ill run the regular 02 all the time for sure. I've heard of people running the wide band during tuning and then removing it. But I don't know the ins and outs.

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Ahh ok. I'm not familiar with the difference. Can you explain?
 
engine is done, pick it up from Huntsville Engine today and headed to swap it out Saturday. They ended up having to order some pushrods that delayed me a bit........ready to hear 8 for sure
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onetoncrawler said:
Thanks guys haha

Another question.... do you run a wide band O2? If so, just when tuning or all the time?

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Since I'm on this side of the board, I'm going to try to add some tech.

A Wideband O2 won't be read by a stock ECM (different for an aftermarket ECU) and will be added next to a normal O2 sensor. It doesn't replace it. It will be plugged into a gauge or a datalogging system/computer.

If you have an engine extremely dependent on AFR (like a high boost / nitrous application where a quick change in AFR might mean instant engine failure), it makes sense to have a gauge in the vehicle and monitoring the AFR live.
In a standard NA application, I think that it is unnecessary and using one during the tuning phase should be more than enough.

Now if you have an aftermarket ECU, like a Holley HP etc, you might use your wideband to tune the engine AND keep running one to adjust your fueling (done by the ECU) and monitor the engine health (done by you on a display).
 
Re: Re: LS engine questions

Awesome info
...still one more question...I'm running Holley HP now, so, can I use only a wideband O2 ? I would rather only have one port and one wire set running down to the exhaust. Thanks man!

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Re: Re: LS engine questions

onetoncrawler said:
Awesome info
...still one more question...I'm running Holley HP now, so, can I use only a wideband O2 ? I would rather only have one port and one wire set running down to the exhaust. Thanks man!

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Yes, provided that your ECU is programmed for that.

You can either :

1) Run in open loop mode, with a wideband plugged into the Holley ECU, meaning the wideband info will be displayed on the screen but won't be affecting your engine management
2) Run in closed loop mode with a wideband plugged into the Holley ECU, meaning the wideband info will be displayed on the screen and WILL BE affecting your engine management.

I would go for the 2nd solution in your case. Running closed loop helps with fine tuning your fuel maps for elevation and temperature changes.

You can also run 2 wide bands (one for each bank of cylinders) and up to 8 (one of each cylinder). This is too much for an engine like you have (I don't mean no disrespect or anything, but it's not a 1500hp with a dual turbo setup at 35psi kind of engine).

Ask your tuner and see what he thinks, but I'm pretty damn certain 1 wideband should be enough. As long as both banks merge and you don't have dual independent exhausts (left and right side separated that never merge), in that case you would want either 2 wide bands (and run each bank on its own closed loop) or none (situation 1, open loop).
 
Good deal !

Of course, it goes without saying that the guy tuning your engine will probably know best what to do or what he likes (many ways to skin a cat).

But I think you now understand the concepts behind narrow and wideband sensors and their uses.
 
update, just for anyone's info that is interested. I ended up swapping injectors. After talking with Tim Cameron and the tuner they have seen issues with too large of an injector at low idle/trail riding conditions. With a 120 lb injector I could have gained 5-10 HP on the big end and tuned to run great at WOT. But, you lose fidelity on the bottom end. So, I swapped to some 66lb injectors that will hopefully get me all the power I need and run great for leaf looking.

looking like another month or two away from firing it up, ready to ride :driving:
 
Yep. You're correct on fuel volume at low idle.

That's why high HP 4 cyl cars that need to be streetable are all running a dual set of injectors instead of a big one per cylinder.

Might be something to look into if you want max HP and driveability.

That said, 120 to 66 is a pretty big jump down in terms of size.
 
Bebop said:
Yep. You're correct on fuel volume at low idle.

That's why high HP 4 cyl cars that need to be streetable are all running a dual set of injectors instead of a big one per cylinder.

Might be something to look into if you want max HP and driveability.

That said, 120 to 66 is a pretty big jump down in terms of size.
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the Holley injectors I got support up to 1050 HP, so I'm still well within their capabilities :dblthumb:
 
onetoncrawler said:
the Holley injectors I got support up to 1050 HP, so I'm still well within their capabilities :dblthumb:
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Internet chest thumpers cock measure over huge injectors, they have no idea how much power you can actually get out of factory LS3 42lb injectors. You will be fine. Can't wait to hear it run.
 
redneckengineered said:
Internet chest thumpers cock measure over huge injectors, they have no idea how much power you can actually get out of factory LS3 42lb injectors. You will be fine. Can't wait to hear it run.
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exactly, I listened to the wrong one initially and got the 120 haha. Jon @ DBR has helped me a ton over the years. I finally made up my mind to let him do the tuning and let him spec everything out. I feel much better about the whole setup now.
 
I'm closing in on my Holley install.

Daniel, IDK how far along your buggy is, but I've been toying around with the Holley software. If you or anyone else has questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.
 
Bebop said:
I'm closing in on my Holley install.

Daniel, IDK how far along your buggy is, but I've been toying around with the Holley software. If you or anyone else has questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.
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cool, thanks man. I ran HP on my last buggy so I know just enough to be dangerous myself haha. I'm hoping that I can get it running well enough to get it up to DBR and let them do their magic

buggy is getting close, just a few more interior panels and plumbing/wiring. I'm hoping to get it to powder next week at the latest. shouldn't take but a cpl weeks after powder to get it buttoned up :dblthumb:

I
 
finalizing the wiring now - this has been a learning curve since we are using the Holley HP as a negative trigger to the speedwire system relay board for radiator fans (separately), trans fan and fuel pump. With HP only having 4 available outputs that meant I had to buy the additional harness for the Holley digital dash in order to be able to control the headlights and rock lights using the virtual switches.

We also flipped the intake around backwards which caused us to have to shorten/clean up the harness. the plumbing and wiring should be done by Saturday so I'm really hoping for a test drive Saturday nt/Sunday.
 
onetoncrawler said:
finalizing the wiring now - this has been a learning curve since we are using the Holley HP as a negative trigger to the speedwire system relay board for radiator fans (separately), trans fan and fuel pump. With HP only having 4 available outputs that meant I had to buy the additional harness for the Holley digital dash in order to be able to control the headlights and rock lights using the virtual switches.

We also flipped the intake around backwards which caused us to have to shorten/clean up the harness. the plumbing and wiring should be done by Saturday so I'm really hoping for a test drive Saturday nt/Sunday.
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I haven't done it yet (cause I want to ride and don't have the need for multiple I/O really), but you should look into PW modulation of the fans in order to limit your I/O usage. You can command multiple fans with only 1 output from the Holley.

Or switch to the new SPAL brushless fans which only require an input if you want to force them @ 90% frequency. Otherwise they don't even need an input.

BTW the virtual switches are the sh*t, I can't wait to have enough $$$ to get the dash :)



Being this close to the test drive must feel good !!!!
 

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