LS thermostat talk

redneckengineered · Oct 19, 2015

tallnate said:
This is a much better way to explain what I was trying to say. ^^

Cool, I'm interested to see how it does. If it keeps it cooler than the expected normal op temp it may run a little on the rich side but that's definitely better than getting hot.

I'm going to talk to Mast some more about the swap. If I go to 160 I'll have them make the necessary tuning changes if they think it's warranted. I may just wait until after the CCB ride, I don't like making changes that aren't a known quantity. Buggy runs great now, the overheating is minor at best. I'll probably fiddle with it after CCB.

shrek tits · Oct 19, 2015

redneckengineered said:
I'm going to talk to Mast some more about the swap. If I go to 160 I'll have them make the necessary tuning changes if they think it's warranted. I may just wait until after the CCB ride, I don't like making changes that aren't a known quantity. Buggy runs great now, the overheating is minor at best. I'll probably fiddle with it after CCB.

I'm also running Mast Ecm. Went to a 160* stat and the rig ran the same. But it would also over heat if I beat it just like before. I also need more radiator 24"x19" CBM with Spal fan.

mcutler · Oct 20, 2015

Running a mast ecm on ls2 as well. 3 years I used a cbm offroad prepped pump with a gutted tstat housing. -16 hoses, steam lines to rad , 18 psi cap, blocked heater ports, front flexalite finned rad with fan 30x19(?)- angled about 30*. Would get 240+ on a heavy beat down, but chilled off relatively quick at idle speeds.
Pump went out before Dixie, didn't have time to get another from cbm, bought a new pump, welded-16 on top, using cbm -16 tstat housing on bottom, 195 tstat, little u hose on heater ports. Doesn't get warm on a beat down nearly as fast, and never got over 230. Stayed at 210 very consistently. Don't think I would go back to my old set up.

matt

cdemart2 · Oct 21, 2015

mcutler said:
Running a mast ecm on ls2 as well. 3 years I used a cbm offroad prepped pump with a gutted tstat housing. -16 hoses, steam lines to rad , 18 psi cap, blocked heater ports, front flexalite finned rad with fan 30x19(?)- angled about 30*. Would get 240+ on a heavy beat down, but chilled off relatively quick at idle speeds.
Pump went out before Dixie, didn't have time to get another from cbm, bought a new pump, welded-16 on top, using cbm -16 tstat housing on bottom, 195 tstat, little u hose on heater ports. Doesn't get warm on a beat down nearly as fast, and never got over 230. Stayed at 210 very consistently. Don't think I would go back to my old set up.

matt

What does cbm do to the pump?

Pumpkin · Oct 21, 2015

cdemart2 said:
What does cbm do to the pump?

Might move water to fast, there is a balance to keep the water in the motor long enough to pull heat out of it. That is why NO t-stat is usually worse than a t-stat. But also the reason a lot of people use restrictors instead of a t-stat. They slow the water down so it has time to pull the heat out of the block and heads.

mcutler · Oct 21, 2015

Re: Re: LS thermostat talk

cdemart2 said:
What does cbm do to the pump?

I'd would venture a guess as to nothing other than weld the -16 on the top port, and tap/plug the heater ports. They're part number is the same as a new (Delphi I think) water pump. It was over $200 iirc, bought the same pump at O'Reilly's for $140 I think, the u hose was about $8, and I ordered a -16 press in unit from cbm for top port (maybe $25)... much less than the cbm product. But no complaints, they have always been great to work with. I use quite a few pieces on their ls line of parts.

matt

redneckengineered · Dec 23, 2015

Little update. I finally got around to swapping my stock thermostat out to the 160 degree stat from Lingenfelter (http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LPE&Product_Code=L310015204&Category_Code=#.VnsRTsYrJaQ). I honestly wasn't expecting much of a change, maybe an initial temp drop but not for an extended period but holy **** it was a night and day difference. The stat opened right at 160 according to my gauge, and the buggy never got over 180 degrees all day. I ended blowing up a 60 HP ring & pinion so I didn't get to ride as long as I wanted but I definitely had the buggy in a couple situations where the temps would have climbed on me and they stayed rock solid.

I'll report back after more ride time but for now this was the easiest and most effective cooling upgrade I've done. I knew I had the cooling capacity from talking with Adam, he runs my same setup on plenty of high HP trail rigs. So, I guess the thermostat was the key. Here's a pic of the Lingenfelter stat (on the left) next to the stock one. It's a nice unit, comes with the gasket, and has holes drilled in the bottom as well. I was ok running at 210 before but it got old always keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Not a big cushion between 210 and danger zone temps. Lingenfelter also offers a 180 degree which would be a decent upgrade from stock if you're not comfortable going with a 160. If you're running an LS and experiencing the same type issue I was and are confident the rest of your cooling is up to par, I would definitely give this a try

tiny · Dec 24, 2015

Redneck, did you check your stock t-stat to see if it was opening all the way?

1tfrot · Dec 24, 2015

so what you're saying is that the change in stat added enough HP to blow up a R&P? ;D

glad to see you got the results you were after, but sorry about the breakage. I'll have to keep an eye on mine this next trip out and see where the temps are since we're doing some snow wheelin.

redneckengineered · Dec 24, 2015

tiny said:
Redneck, did you check your stock t-stat to see if it was opening all the way?

No, but it's always performed as I would expect. Before I added compression to this motor it held at 205-210 come hell or high water so I assume it was opening properly.

1tfrot said:
so what you're saying is that the change in stat added enough HP to blow up a R&P? ;D

glad to see you got the results you were after, but sorry about the breakage. I'll have to keep an eye on mine this next trip out and see where the temps are since we're doing some snow wheelin.

Ha, you know, I didn't think about that but you may be right! :woot:

dynajeep · Dec 24, 2015

Like reading this kinda stuff... My dyno guy swears by keeping everything as cool as possible. He sees the results time and time again

redneckengineered · Dec 24, 2015

dynajeep said:
Like reading this kinda stuff... My dyno guy swears by keeping everything as cool as possible. He sees the results time and time again

You may want to holler at Woodlee about that. I'm pretty sure Mast ships their turn key motors with stock 195 stats. You got a lot of ponies to keep cool.

muddinmetal · Dec 24, 2015

Cooler engines make more power, but ls motors are not afraid of heat, they will run all day at 250 if you can keep coolant in them, the warmer a motor, the more efficient it is usually (215 vs 160)

redneckengineered · Dec 24, 2015

muddinmetal said:
Cooler engines make more power, but ls motors are not afraid of heat, they will run all day at 250 if you can keep coolant in them, the warmer a motor, the more efficient it is usually (215 vs 160)

May be but you won't catch me running my hand built engine that hot. Mast told me that you should start thinking about shutting it down at 230 and at 250 it's "WHY THE **** IS IT STILL RUNNING". The ECM throws a code if it gets over 220, just a "hey you're getting hot code". That's straight from the horses mouth.

kmcminn · Mar 30, 2017

You still happy with the 160 thermostat?

redneckengineered · Mar 30, 2017

kmcminn said:
You still happy with the 160 thermostat?

I was just having this conversation with a buddy who is thinking about switching last weekend. Absolutely. Do it. Best $20 upgrade ever.

This is my buggy hot idle vs Jessica's buggy hot idle. I have a 160 stat for her, I just haven't thrown it in yet.