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My 60 project...

JOOP said:
I've got a heavy foot and not affraid to hit a rev limiter. So I need the reassurance in my axles.
You're running a front 30 with 36's... Me thinks your right foot isn't as heavy as you claim, unless you're shitting parts and not posting about it.


But it sounds like it's time for a drive train upgrade. You're still running a 5-speed and NP231? Those 4.56's would do you fine with some better drive train gearing.
 
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Jon sounds like you are going in a good direction. Just dont stop wheelin it till you have all the parts assembled for your transformation. I agree a 60 front is a good idea. One bit of advice though is go wider than 61 at least in the front. My 60s are 62in wms to wms and the front tires hit the springs with even 38s. I have to run a 2.75in b/s wheel to keep it turnable. The 40s still rub at that. I would go 65 at least up front. A stock ford drivers drop front d60 is what I would find. Luckily they are the cheaper of the 60s. I wouldnt narrow it or try to keep it street legal if you are going big axles. Remember the yj has a wider frame than a cj7 so you have to stay wide. If you are going that big an axle then you will eventually go bigger tires. 42s are the old 39.5s. I built mine to run 38s too, and ended up with 39.5tsls cause I could. That and links are for buggys, leave the leafs on it, they work great. THis is just my opinion, giving you the info to mull over. Honestly it will be a little more capable with all this stuff, but not as much more as you would think. I would stay 36s, build a waggy 44 with chromo shafts, joints and rock the 36s till they are bald. THen keep it 4.56. any bigger tire than that minimum of 5.13s. i would go 5.38s or deeper if I were to do it again. If I were to build mine all over right now, I would do a 44 front, the 60 rear you have, 5.13s, detroit rear arb front, 4 to 1s in the case, keep the 6cyl and 5sp. keep it on 36s and enjoy it. It is already very capable. Just keep that in mind.
 
JOOP said:
your an automatic???? I'm a stick. Plus you have a V8 pushing your where I have a inline 6 stroker. Yeh its a stroker but its not a V8. Although I do have a 400sbc now. :redneck:

Yes I am an auto. But that shouldn't matter. Can you use your 5th gear now? Odds are (even with the stroker motor) that's a NO. But with the taller gears, 5th does come into play a little. Until you change ratios, you'll really never know. Sooooo, I'm running around 2800 RPM at freeway speeds with 37s and 4.56 gears. IF you run a taller gear, you'll be turning even higher (in 4th gear, which is equal to my 'D' gear). Yes, you can shift into 5, but will it still pull hills. Secondly, it probably doesn't matter, but the taller the gear, the smaller the pinion itself is, and the weaker the gear set is because of that. And yes, being a 60, it'll still be lots stronger than you need. And finally, remember to check whatever gear set you get, to make sure, that the 60 rear, and 9 inch front can get matching sets of gears.

And I'm very happy with my 4.56s. Just wish my damn Atlas had the 3.8s instead of the 4.3s.

Tony
 
Ok got a tech question about this 60. I'm going disc brakes without a doubt. So does anyone have the part numbers or applications for the caliper's and rotor's?? What should I be buying before I quit my job and get these discounts. Need responses quick because I can count the days on 1 hand. :redneck:
 
JOOP said:
Ok got a tech question about this 60. I'm going disc brakes without a doubt. So does anyone have the part numbers or applications for the caliper's and rotor's?? What should I be buying before I quit my job and get these discounts. Need responses quick because I can count the days on 1 hand. :redneck:

get the weld on brackets...internet or S&N fab.

8 Lug rotors from a '76 Chevy 3/4 ton front 4x4.

Calipers, loaded, '76 Chevy 1/2 Ton 2wd front from Napa
442-2000
442-2001

Factory hoses & banjo bolts from the same year.
 
JOOP said:
The thought has gone through my head many times, but I still need to be able to drive this on the street. duece axles would be sweet but to damn heavy and big. Besides its not like I'm going to break this 60 with 38"s. If I do i was really trying. :redneck:

well usualy dueces are cheaper cuz no gear setup (and you can find f/r for price of front 60)and all that weight is unsprung
 
Ok ran into a few problems. This thing is 5 on 5.5, So I bought rotor's from a dodge and calipers. Is there anyplace that sell's the weld on brackets for dodge ****? All the ones that you all provided links for, call for chevy stuff. Might just have to fab up something out of card board then have them cut. Unless you know fo any dodge brackets. :cool:
 
JOOP said:
Ok ran into a few problems. This thing is 5 on 5.5, So I bought rotor's from a dodge and calipers. Is there anyplace that sell's the weld on brackets for dodge ****? All the ones that you all provided links for, call for chevy stuff. Might just have to fab up something out of card board then have them cut. Unless you know fo any dodge brackets. :cool:

Why did you buy Dodge stuff?

Almost everything out there is for Chevy...
 
Jobless said:
Why did you buy Dodge stuff?

Almost everything out there is for Chevy...

All the chevy stuff was 8 lug. These shafts are 5 on 5.5
 
JOOP said:
All the chevy stuff was 8 lug. These shafts are 5 on 5.5


Compare the thickness of your Dodge rotors to those of a chevy 1/2 ton...if they will fit just use the chevy calipers and return the dodge stuff, that will solve your caliper mounting issue.
 
Jobless said:
Compare the thickness of your Dodge rotors to those of a chevy 1/2 ton...if they will fit just use the chevy calipers and return the dodge stuff, that will solve your caliper mounting issue.


The thickness was the same but the chevy rotor's were an inch taller. So I dont think the pads would ride correctly on the rotor's. But I'll check it out tomm and see if that'll work.
 
Stop with the bla bla and start posting pics!!!!!!! Thats all that matters in this section fooo!!!!!!
 
There is a pic in the first post fooo....

But I was just outside fawking with it. I got the wrong pads so they have to go back. So I'm going to swap them out for the chevy calipers and see if they'll work.
 
JOOP said:
There is a pic in the first post fooo....

But I was just outside fawking with it. I got the wrong pads so they have to go back. So I'm going to swap them out for the chevy calipers and see if they'll work.


I ran 5 on 5.5 front rotors from a 78-9 ford and chevy calipers on my cj5 before I built my yj. the dodge rotor is likely the same as the ford one I just mentioned. the other thing too is these parts arent made by the car manufacturer you ask for, so much of it is the same with little things moved, like brake line placement. Keep that in mind to simplify it for yourself. The dodge and fords have a totally diferent mount so you cant use a bracket from a chevy with them. Look in speedway motors for your caliper brackets, very cheap there. remember too you can move and weld the brackets on the axle tube to fit the rotors. Might have to have the center of the rotor or the hubcentric of the axleshaft machined to fit the rotor on it. I would leave it drums though they work good.
 
I think I'm going to go that route. I just brought back all my stuff and got chevy stuff today. But the rotor's are 8 lug. So I either need to get ford rotor's or wheel adapters. What front axle were you running and did it have the same bolt pattern? I just want a bolt pattern that is easy and cheap.
 
Holy crap, its not that hard. 80's F150 4x4 front rotors. 80's GM calipers. Weld on brackets from any of the hundreds of vendors who sell them.
 
ok yeh the rear might not be that hard but how much of a PITA is it going to be to get a 5 on 5.5 front 60? From what Porter was telling me it's going to cost some ching..
 

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