payne97
gas the **** out of it
Yea if your knuckle ant rowed back they will push the chassisWes in TN said:
More is better but 4 degree will work
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Need help with suspension
- Thread starter Wes in TN
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More is better but 4 degree will work
FroggF350
Well-Known Member
Upper links should be around 70-80% of your lower links.for example: if your lowers are 40" long then your uppers should be at least 28" long. If the uppers are longer then it could cause some funky geometry. Like Budgetyj said, if the shocks are too straight up you probly cant fix it with spring rates or a sway bar. I would like to see a side pic of it at full droop.
payne97
gas the **** out of it
When your knuckles r turned back it makes your tires point inn without a tierod right
So if your knuckle r turned back when u turn it puts weight on the tires so more traction (that's what Ive read and it works) and if u go 2 a big rock crawl and look at a comp buggy they r turned back about 10 degrees if not more
So if your knuckle r turned back when u turn it puts weight on the tires so more traction (that's what Ive read and it works) and if u go 2 a big rock crawl and look at a comp buggy they r turned back about 10 degrees if not more
Upper links are 32", lower links are 34". Vertical separation at the axle is 6.5-7" (I'll measure more accurately later), as it sits now the seperation at the frame is exactly 5". I have the ability to raise or lower the upper frame end link mounts 1".
The shocks are not straight up and down, the lower mounts are spaced 8" wider than the upper mounts.
It doesn't look like I can get new springs before this weekend. I will swap the shocks side to side, slide the adjuster nut down to make the 250 springs come in sooner, and will move the frame end upper link mounts up or down and see how that affects things.
I don't have my camera with me but I'll get all the measurements tonight and will post better overall shocks of the rear tomorrow.
The shocks are not straight up and down, the lower mounts are spaced 8" wider than the upper mounts.
It doesn't look like I can get new springs before this weekend. I will swap the shocks side to side, slide the adjuster nut down to make the 250 springs come in sooner, and will move the frame end upper link mounts up or down and see how that affects things.
I don't have my camera with me but I'll get all the measurements tonight and will post better overall shocks of the rear tomorrow.
gomer pyle
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have you talked to jimmy about it? i took mine back to jimmy and he helped me(i had a similar problem and we ended up going with a heavier spring)
gomer pyle said:
Yes, Jimmy suggested stiffer upper springs, adjusting the stop so I only get about an inch of travel till the lower springs takes over, and lowering the from end of the upper control arm.
I want to try and figure it out for myself and if I can't get it licked I'll take it in to Jimmy.
Swapping shocks side to side seemed to make a significant difference. I will check the pressure in the now drivers side shock tomorrow. All I have to climb here at the shop at 4' tall straight up loading dock walls. Hardly like trail conditions but I hit it all different directions and I didn't get nearly the lean I normally do and the pass side tire never got in to the coilover like is usually does.
After that I moved the chassis side upper link mounts down to the lower hole and it felt even better. Hopefully I'm on my way to getting it where I want it.
I will post pressures, better pics and measurements tomorrow. Beers have ruined my motivation tonight.
After that I moved the chassis side upper link mounts down to the lower hole and it felt even better. Hopefully I'm on my way to getting it where I want it.
I will post pressures, better pics and measurements tomorrow. Beers have ruined my motivation tonight.
FroggF350
Well-Known Member
Wes in TN said:
Maybe if your shocks were outside the link mounts it would help also.
Good news then, I think you are starting in the right place with rates and N2 pressure. Jimmy knows link geometry, so I don't think that is your culprit. The further out you can get the axle end of the coilover the better, but hopefully the changes you are doing will keep you from having to do that
Budget YJ
Well-Known Member
The last few post are the same thing I was saying too :****:
Good luck
Good luck
T
traveler
Guest
i thought enginers knew everything 
.what would you prove if you do figure it out just take it to jimmy save your money and let him do it right
.what would you prove if you do figure it out just take it to jimmy save your money and let him do it right 
shortcut
Well-Known Member
That's good to hear... 
did you ever check your nitrogen p.s.I?
did you ever check your nitrogen p.s.I?
shortcut
Well-Known Member
traveler said:i thought enginers knew everything
No need to run to Jimmy for simple adjustments like this..and what it proves by doing it himself is gaining the knowledge of what simple adj. Or changes in spring rates will do..lot of guys change setups depending on which park they're riding that particular weekend..its called testing and tuning..
