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need small engine help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joc
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Joc

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I got a hand me down pressure washer from my parents last year b/c they couldnt crank it. Claimed it was a year old. Well I got it out this last week or two and decided to fight with it. Cleaned the carb. No luck. Cleaned it again thinking maybe I overlooked something or didnt get it unclogged and it would crank but only run on choke to half choke. Few more carb cleaning sessions and a blast with the air hose and wahlaa it ran good.
Today i rolled it out and started to wash pool deck and after about 20 mins it kinda backfired and quit and will not crank. I even cleaned the carb AGAIN and no luck.
What gives? Is there some dumb kill switch engaged somewhere?

I dont mind wrenching on it but dang enough is enough when I can go buy one. Now its just the principle of not letting it get the best of me bc i hate to spend a few hundred over me loosing my patients.

any ideas?
 
al1tonyota said:
Is it getting fire? Fuel? Air? Backfiring could break/crack the ceramic on the plug I'd check that.

I pulled the plug and its getting fire.

Shot starting fluid in the carb and it wont even fire that way.

Beerj said:
Does it have a low oil shutoff?

Man I have no idea. How do i tell?


I called a buddy that has done some small engine repair years ago. He said check spark, if it sparks and wont crank to check the rocker arms/push rods and make sure all that is in working order and check the flywheel key. I think he said if all that is good it may have sheared the key and the timing is out.



rednecklights said:
Did you put air to the fuel lines ?


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yes the other day and today when you take it loose it just pours gas so its getting it to the carb
 
its a briggs and straton 7hp ohv
there was 2 yellow oil caps down low (on each side) and a white one up high
The oil was around the bottom of the threaded holes
 
Joc said:
its a briggs and straton 7hp ohv
there was 2 yellow oil caps down low (on each side) and a white one up high
The oil was around the bottom of the threaded holes
Low oil will kill spark if it has a sensor but I wouldn't think it would have one?
 
Well I decide to go get a new one and a quart of oil. If the other will crank with a lil more oil I'll take the new one back. I gotta get some stuff done.
 
Did you pull the valve cover? Pushrods are very loose and easily come off. Have fixed a few that way!
 
I have fixed one by adding oil. It ran good when put away, had what looked like plenty of oil and would spark at the plug. Added just a couple ounces and it started up and ran good. Also by passed the switch (oil sensor, kill) on some cause it was bad. Good luck, as mentioned above as a last resort check the flywheel key.
 
InittowiniT said:
Did you pull the valve cover? Pushrods are very loose and easily come off. Have fixed a few that way!

Yes, pulled the cover and rockers and rods moved like they should. At least to the untrained eye they seemed in place and moved up and down as i pulled the cord.

I bought a qt of oil and new spark plug and none of that helped so I had to open the new one I got "just in case" it still didnt crank. By golly I should of done this a couple weeks ago. Cranked on 2nd pull right out the box and seems to have better pressure than the broke one even though its rated at less. Guess the poor running motor could be some of that.

Far as the old one, Im not done yet. Im gonna keep working on it til it runs...... i hope lol. Guess Ill be tearing it down to check the flywheel key whenever I get time.
 
Small engines are also notorious for shearing key ways on the crank at the stator/flywheel. It throws the timing off so it shows fuel spark and compression but it's at the wrong time. Just something to check.
 
well finally got a few mins to tinker with the engine.

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fixing to run to a buddy's house and get a new key. Should work like new. I was telling my stepdad the problem and he said he used it 1 time....thats a shame.
 
Well.....
I got the key from a buddy to fix it. Put it on and got it all back together and it still wont crank after several pulls. wont even try to. I ran out of time to go back and trouble shoot with starter fluid etc.

Ive never changed a key out on one and I assumed it was just put it in and let it self align done deal.

Was I supposed to somehow set the timing or get the piston on TDC :dunno: I wasnt "in" the engine but i did turn the flywheel. Just seems like its pre set with the key and turning the flywheel shouldnt matter but im no master mechanic on them.
 
It was one assembled piece that came off the shaft. there was a section on the flywheel that looked like it lined up with the coil off to the left in the pic but still just only one way to put it back on
 
Nope, just slap the new key in and go.

With low hours compression shouldn't be an issue. If you removed the coil, gap the flywheel magnet and coil with a business card, and sand it if needed.

If you check compression and it is low, more than likely its a valve issue.. Should have around 90 lbs with 3 pulls with choke off. 60 lbs of compression is generally what a wore engine that won't start has. Check the valve lash also, sometimes they are out pretty bad and can hinder starting, .010 and .008 should get you close, most all briggs engines have a website that give you the specs.. Just look up the engine model and code printed on your valve cover or engine shroud.

If you positive of it having fire, and compression is good it all points at fuel issues.
I've seen where the old rubber seats under the needle have swollen shut from old gas.

P.M. and I will give my # if you need some help.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll check all that again and see what happens. Who knows the new spark plug may have something to do with it. Might need to compare the gap with the old one or just put the old one back in. Kinda a bummer. When I seen it was the key I thought it was gonna be an easy fix.
 
Make sure all the fuel lines haven't cracked from E10 gas. We worked on a go kart for three days looking for everything and it ended up being all the rubber fittings in the fuel line and carb were cracked from keeping gas that had no conditioner in it over winter.
 

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