New CV driveline now what?

[Lamar]

Dear roccrawler;
The u-joints at each terminal end of the d/s should be in phase with each other or the assembly will vibrate. As the d/s goes round and round, it's actually 'pulsing' slightly due to imperfect alignment of the shaft between the t-case yoke and the diff yoke. These pulses are necessary and the d/s is balanced with this in mind. Also, this is how the needle bearings in the u-joint cups recieve their lubrication. If they never pulsed, then the u-joint would never articulate and the u-joint shafts would never recieve get greased. If the terminal ends of the d/s are not in phase with one another, then the pulse cycles will effectively double, causing the slight vibrations to become to severe vibrations.
Your friend;
LAMAR

 

[Roccrawler]

Just to double check, According to Driveline NW . THe cv will cancel out it self at the transfercase side and the rearend should be pointing inline with driveline. so that being said it wouldnt matter what position the yolk at the axle side was... except if you driveline was balanced then it would throw it off.

Interesting

Just what I was told by the driveline shop.. and as I said before I would line them up

 

[CrustyJeep]

Just what I was told by the driveline shop.. and as I said before I would line them up

A driveline shop told you the angle of the single joint shouldn't matter? I wouldn't be going back to that shop :haha: That's like an astromoner telling you the moon is made of cheese :haha:

 

[CrustyJeep]

OK, so do I line it up striaght while the truck is stationary or try to figure out where it would be lined up under working conditions?

Line it up stationary, IE at normal ride height.

Some people say to rotate the pinion down so the the lower joint is 1* offset, which should be enough to keep the needles moving and lubricated. I say BS. The suspension will cycle *plenty* just driving on the road to change the joint angle up and down, thus keeping it lubed. Just set it to zero and be done.

This is mostly moot on a trail rig anyway, a few degrees either way will be unnoticable with big oval tires and slow trail speeds.

 

[heep70]

Line it up stationary, IE at normal ride height.

Some people say to rotate the pinion down so the the lower joint is 1* offset, which should be enough to keep the needles moving and lubricated. I say BS. The suspension will cycle *plenty* just driving on the road to change the joint angle up and down, thus keeping it lubed. Just set it to zero and be done.

This is mostly moot on a trail rig anyway, a few degrees either way will be unnoticable with big oval tires and slow trail speeds.

Cool, thank you.

Yes, its mostly a trail rig, but I still have to ride on the thin cusioned hard plastic seat all the way there. If I was of the other gender or maybe thought I was :rb: then I might like the osolating vibration throughout the throttle:kiss: :kissmyass:

 

[crash2]

Line it up stationary, IE at normal ride height.

Some people say to rotate the pinion down so the the lower joint is 1* offset, which should be enough to keep the needles moving and lubricated. I say BS. The suspension will cycle *plenty* just driving on the road to change the joint angle up and down, thus keeping it lubed. Just set it to zero and be done.

This is mostly moot on a trail rig anyway, a few degrees either way will be unnoticable with big oval tires and slow trail speeds.

hOW many of these setups have you done?

Always set them up to 1-2 degrees down. I have set them to zero and there was just enought axle wrap to go 4-5 degrees on hard accel causing a vib. Have never ever had a problem going 1-2 degrees below.

 

[CrustyJeep]

hOW many of these setups have you done?

Always set them up to 1-2 degrees down. I have set them to zero and there was just enought axle wrap to go 4-5 degrees on hard accel causing a vib. Have never ever had a problem going 1-2 degrees below.

Anti-wrap bar :flipoff:

Mine's offset to the side by 4 or 5 degrees. I can feel it when taking off, but never at speed.

 

[crash2]

Anti-wrap bar :flipoff:

Mine's offset to the side by 4 or 5 degrees. I can feel it when taking off, but never at speed.

Thats why you set them to 1-2 degrees for take offs--its not going down the raod at speeds.... And not to forget---SWB are more prone to being critical than LB rigs due to the length of the driveshaft...

 

[CrustyJeep]

Just to double check, According to Driveline NW . THe cv will cancel out it self at the transfercase side and the rearend should be pointing inline with driveline. so that being said it wouldnt matter what position the yolk at the axle side was... except if you driveline was balanced then it would throw it off.

I get what you're trying to say now... That the shaft could be *twisted* out of phase. I don't see why that would matter, unless as you say it throws the balance off.

 

[cisco]

If you really want to get into it here is some mind fry.

http://www.gwb-essen.de/fahrzeugbau/english/seite_20.html

Crash and Crusty know what there talkin about. You should be fine with the pinion lined up with the shaft to slightly down. If this is right, there may be something else causing the vibration.

 

[CrustyJeep]

Thx for making my eyes bleed Cisco :flipoff:

 

[cisco]

I knew you wanted to see that:hi:

 

[Roccrawler]

If you really want to get into it here is some mind fry.

http://www.gwb-essen.de/fahrzeugbau/english/seite_20.html

Crash and Crusty know what there talkin about. You should be fine with the pinion lined up with the shaft to slightly down. If this is right, there may be something else causing the vibration.

That had nothing to do with a cv joint on one end and a single joint on the other

 

[CrustyJeep]

That had nothing to do with a cv joint on one end and a single joint on the other

Well it sort of does... It shows that a ujoint's angle must be cancelled by another one. Since we know that a CV is self canceling, we therefore know that there is nothing left to cancel the third joint.

 

[cisco]

And for the third joint if you put in a value of zero degrees for the angle, the equation will show that there is no harmonic oscillation (also graphically shown in the "Degree of non uniformity U" graph, and stated "From the motion equation it is evident that a homokinematic motion behaviour corresponding to the dotted line under 45° - as shown in the diagram - can only be obtained for the deflection angle ß = 0°.".

This is the case where the pinion lines up with the driveline.:;

 

[Lamar]

Dear Cisco;
Yes, the formula is 100% correct my friend, however on a precautionary note, please try and choose your words a bit more carefully in the future. CrustyJeep becomes aroused everytime he sees a word with the letters HOMO in it.
Your not wanting to be around CrustyJeep for a day or two friend;
LAMAR

 

[heep70]

You guys are to much. :clappy:

I aligned the pinion up with the driveline. Most if not all the vibe is gone. I might try to drop the pinion a half a degree and see what that does.
I am not sure the CV shaft is the answer to most vib issues. I have learned alot from all the answers I have gotten from the boards and and all the reading that is offered. I think I could had solved my vibe problem I had with my non-CV shaft. I think patients is a must in this type of fix.