bigiron
Stuck in the Swamp
Kyle is a good guy i have broke mine 3 times and he has sent overnight air replacement parts top notch.....IMO I am kinda acting as one of his test beds he has stood behind his product and improved it several times
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Northwest fab doubler
- Thread starter Boonie Buster
- Start date
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
That is who i talked to the first time, can't remember who i talked to the other day (kyle was busy) but SUPPOSEDLY they sent it out last week... I was SUPPOSED to get an email with a tracking number...:eeek: I have yet to recieve it from wednesdays call...:eeek: :eeek: :eeek: :corn: :corn: :corn:
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
Got my adapter yesterday:awesomework: Only two and half weeks from order, although i have a mysterious $300 extra charge on my account.... I hope it is for the Yokes I asked for....weird thing is the charge shows it happened a day before i ever sent the email asking about putting the extra stuff on my order...:eeek:
mine also showed up yesterday:fawkdancesmiley:
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
NICE!:awesomework:
(at least all of yours showed up, still have to get my PTO cover...)
now we should have a race to see who can get theirs installed faster...not necesarily safely, just faster:awesomework: :haha: :haha: :haha:
Did you get any special clocking on yours?:corn: pass. drop right?
driver drop and clocked totally flat. installation completed last night..
mine came with a PTO cover with a drain bung installed. kinda lame im not gonna use it.
the adapter came drilled and tapped for fill and sight hole for oil level along with a vent. it is made to be hung from the chassis which is what i wanted.
came with a complete 203 and 205 gasket kits with all the doo dads you would ever need for either case.
quite impressed actually:awesomework:
so this completes the first milestone for my whillys build, the drive train is complete. 4.3 Vortec CPI, Turbo-350, 203/205.
when the front end comes back from S & N i can start on the chassis.
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
Nice, so do you have a high pinion axle you're using, i can't remember what you said from when we last talked, or if you had gotten that far.
Ya I like the PTO cover with the bung for filling the case up:awesomework:
I need to find a place that maybe jsut sells the np203 rebuilt parts, well i should say that i did find a place, but i dont think it had the shifter seal pieces, it had the bearings/gaskets i needed for sale though...
Is your 203 clocked at all?
I am thinking with my new setup, i might rotate the 203 upside down like the setup i just had, for clearance and also that'll put the shifters all on the same side, I am a little nervous about what i will have to do with relocating my auto shifter and figuring out shifter linkage for the t-cases, hooray for triple sticks:cheer:
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no high pinon but ive never really had an issue with low pinon stuff.
the 203 is clocked 90 degrees. the shifter is on the very top and a few inches in front of the 205s. the adapter between tranny and 203 is also 90 deg.
thats why the new PTO cover has a bung for draining. but the stock cover is thicker so im leaving it there. i can drain it by taking out the 6 bolts.
not sure what im gonna do about the inboard 205 shifter:eeek:
ill figure something out.
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
so wait... you have the 203 clocked 90 degrees sideways and it's in front of the 205? As in, the bottom of the 203 is clocked up on the same side as the front output? :eeek:
bigiron
Stuck in the Swamp
Not to clog up your thread but when you install these kits it is highly recomended that you use a side mount on the 205 to the frame for torque.... I also built some additional brackets to go between boxes on the adapter plates also the vent needs to be run very high on the rig or it will push out oil I have been Running their parts for a few years. just trying to help a guy out:awesomework:
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
thanks for clogging up my thread
:fawkdancesmiley: :haha: j/kok, ya i was planning on running a torque mount, then one for the trans, but i am still unsure of how to go all the way across to support the cases fully....:eeek: i will have to get it up in there and brainstorm a bit...
thanks for the tips,:awesomework: any and all suggestions are welcome...so long as they dont clog the thread up:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:
moparmagician
Well-Known Member
:looser: Now I hate to do this, but I'm opening up a can of worms here. I have one of these doublers and I was going to build a torque mount for the 205. This is what someone wrote to me when they seen the pics.
"Don't take this the wrong way, but on your rear t-case mount, it looks like you've got two mounting points(one on either side of case) to support it; Don't do it...Had a buddy that thought he'd 'secure/support' by fabbing up a similar mounting setup, and ended up breaking the tail end of his tranny(twice)! Reason turned out to be his rear case mount-the fix was to fab a crossmember that has one central mount for the case, to allow for the natural movement of the drivetrain.With the rear case mounted 'solid', and you accelerate, the engine will 'torque' in its mounts, but the t-case won't move; Something's got to give, and the weakest link was the rear snout of the trans in his case.....took two broken transmissions before he figured out what the cause was; He redesigned the rear case crossmember to have one central mount, and wallah, no more broken trannies!!!hope this info is helpful!! "
Now that I did some research, I've found several people that have had broken trannys because of a "torque" mount on the t-case. My personal experience is over 25 years of drag racing, and rule of thumb for example, is you never run solid motors mounts and a solid trans mount, you will break the trans. Something has to have some give in it. I am sure engine torque plays a role, but I think even more, frame or body flex does even more. So I am sure it depends on what type of chassis you have. A very solid tube chassis buggy won't flex much, where a full bodied pickup will. My personal setup in my buggy, which hasn't seen a trail yet, uses a single mounting point at the rear of the 205, just to support weight only, it can pivot there. I utilized the NW Fab doubler mounting points and also the stock tranny mount. Just food for thought.
"Don't take this the wrong way, but on your rear t-case mount, it looks like you've got two mounting points(one on either side of case) to support it; Don't do it...Had a buddy that thought he'd 'secure/support' by fabbing up a similar mounting setup, and ended up breaking the tail end of his tranny(twice)! Reason turned out to be his rear case mount-the fix was to fab a crossmember that has one central mount for the case, to allow for the natural movement of the drivetrain.With the rear case mounted 'solid', and you accelerate, the engine will 'torque' in its mounts, but the t-case won't move; Something's got to give, and the weakest link was the rear snout of the trans in his case.....took two broken transmissions before he figured out what the cause was; He redesigned the rear case crossmember to have one central mount, and wallah, no more broken trannies!!!hope this info is helpful!! "
Now that I did some research, I've found several people that have had broken trannys because of a "torque" mount on the t-case. My personal experience is over 25 years of drag racing, and rule of thumb for example, is you never run solid motors mounts and a solid trans mount, you will break the trans. Something has to have some give in it. I am sure engine torque plays a role, but I think even more, frame or body flex does even more. So I am sure it depends on what type of chassis you have. A very solid tube chassis buggy won't flex much, where a full bodied pickup will. My personal setup in my buggy, which hasn't seen a trail yet, uses a single mounting point at the rear of the 205, just to support weight only, it can pivot there. I utilized the NW Fab doubler mounting points and also the stock tranny mount. Just food for thought.
bigiron
Stuck in the Swamp
Well not to get in a pissing match but i have destroyed a couple of these the torque will pull all the bolts in the clocking section out of the plate that bolts to the face of the 205 or break the ears off the ring if you have the early version.... and no support to prevent 205 from twisting against clocking collar best way to fix it that i have found is to make additional plates that bolt to both plate faces....plus use the 205 torque mount but do make sure you have same amount of movement and same material construction on all mounting points. the bigger you rubber and more agressive your cut on tire the more reinforcement you will need.....First time out with mine and no torque mount 205 was hanging by shifters and drivelines...... Some have actually built a cradle that bolts to the 2 1/2 inch holes in the 203 plate then pickup the holes on the rear of the 205 with a custom mount in the center of cradle.
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
See, now that was a concern of mine, even before this whole torque mount thing showed up, was i was afraid that these spring bushing mounts i am gonna use would be harder than my motor mounts (s-10, 2.8l to chevy 350 motor mounts, aka solid metal to stock rubber mount on frame rail) resulting in two different amounts of "holding power" as in the motor will flex over further than the t-cases, stressing the tranny housing(my biggest concern right now) I really need some pics of some tried and true setups, torque mount or not... I just am afraid of splitting something i just repaired...aka trans.:booo:
My setup and plans:
350/700r4/203/205.
There are two holes on the back part of the 700r4 that i am going to make a crossmember from frame rail to frame rail to support the trans up with and build off of for a front trans. pan belly skid. Then I have to figure out how i am going to mount/cradle the dual cases (i didn't look to hard at my adapter yet, but i didnt see any "provided" mounting on it at all:eeek: ) and then possibly the torque bar, which would still have a spring hanger bushing mounting it to the frame(i assume this is what the people who broke their t-case/trans. did NOT have. They had a solid mount, with NO bushing, if i am understanding this correctly:eeek: )
EDIT: so maybe some new harder compound motor mounts are in order here also, since the ones i have are fairly old and will give more under torque...
My setup and plans:
350/700r4/203/205.
There are two holes on the back part of the 700r4 that i am going to make a crossmember from frame rail to frame rail to support the trans up with and build off of for a front trans. pan belly skid. Then I have to figure out how i am going to mount/cradle the dual cases (i didn't look to hard at my adapter yet, but i didnt see any "provided" mounting on it at all:eeek: ) and then possibly the torque bar, which would still have a spring hanger bushing mounting it to the frame(i assume this is what the people who broke their t-case/trans. did NOT have. They had a solid mount, with NO bushing, if i am understanding this correctly:eeek: )
EDIT: so maybe some new harder compound motor mounts are in order here also, since the ones i have are fairly old and will give more under torque...
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moparmagician
Well-Known Member
Now I'm scared of mine. I would like to also see some pics please. There is a pic of my doubler before it was installed at http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22507&page=4 and in the lower left, the plate that mounts to the 203, you can see some holes in the lower end of it. NW recommends using these for mounting purposes.
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No chevy 203 clocked 90 deg with shifter on top (shifter was passenger side) and ford 205 driver drop. both shifters on the 205 are on the passenger side or closer to center.
ORD picture mine are blue and orange:awesomework:
Attachments
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
So you have a mount supporting the trans. then the 2 bolt thing holding up the rear case... I feel that is not going to be enough, or ripped those two bolts out. I had a crossmember sort of like that, that grabbed the bottom three bolts of the figure 8 on the 205, and i felt that wasn't going to be enough...:eeek: So i guess really, the objective is to get everything rotating/torquing at the same amount...? Seem logical to me, I am just wondering if my stock motor mounts are going to allow too much movement, I doubt they move much at all as it is, but i don;t want them over torquing my trans. but i also don't want my t-cases just twisting around like crazy.
bigiron
Stuck in the Swamp
It will not twist like crazy it will break the collar or pull out the four bolts holding it to the aluminum 205 plate and fall out! I will post some pics of what i did to get mine fixed no more breakage. tourque mount is a must on this setup the four bolts holding the center clocking ring will not hold all that the drivetrain will throw at it! Trust me on this....been down this road. I will post some pics soon.
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
ya, i would like some pics:awesomework:
