Offset Issue

Boonie Buster · Dec 1, 2008

I just thought of another possible solution.....

Would 17" rims work to sure this problem, say, i were to get a 17x8" rim, SAME offset as now, 3.75" would the extra 1" on each side be enough to possibly push the "bulge" out of harms way and clear the TRE...? :eeek:

Anyone have any 36x13.5x17 Irok's they wanna trade?!?! I'll trade a set of 39's for them....:stirpot: :corn:

Grommit327 · Dec 1, 2008

Sounds like it's the arms causing the problems and not the wheels. Why not invest in a good set of arms that will clear the wheels. I run partsmike arms on mine and didn't have any problems with 3.75 BS wheels and 36 iroks

CHOP SHOP · Dec 1, 2008

Grommit327 said:
Sounds like it's the arms causing the problems and not the wheels. Why not invest in a good set of arms that will clear the wheels. I run partsmike arms on mine and didn't have any problems with 3.75 BS wheels and 36 iroks

I have run parts mike and R&P offroad arms with no issues, off the shelf rims, no thought of clearence issues.:beer:

nevada · Dec 2, 2008

ok, just get the weld-ons, and be done with this.:awesomework:

or run some spacers.

dirtygoat · Dec 2, 2008

I have one 3.5" backspace 15" 8 lug rim...:redneck:

I am going to use it for my spare... It came with a set I bought about 6 months ago...:fawkdancesmiley:

84Toyota4x4 · Dec 2, 2008

Fix my rear drive line :flipoff:

~T.J.

Boonie Buster · Dec 2, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
I have run parts mike and R&P offroad arms with no issues, off the shelf rims, no thought of clearence issues.:beer:

Actually that's not a bad idea guys. I need them to have a 1" rise though....:eeek: I will check today, but if they run inboard a little, that'll help the Tie Rod also with thread engagement...not much but every little bit counts.:awesomework:

EDIT: I think the reason i am having issues now, is because of having to run a 1" riser under the arm, pushing it up and closer to the rim causing it to hit.

I am ALMOST wondering if a 10* correction style arm would be enough to cure this problem, it's that minute an issue....:booo:

Boonie Buster · Dec 2, 2008

84Toyota4x4 said:
Fix my rear drive line :flipoff:

~T.J.

Bring it over....:hi: I'll fix it!:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:

NotMatt · Dec 2, 2008

Order some 15's with 3" backspacing and be done with it. Everything else is kind of a bandaid. The weld-on beadlock kit might fix it while aired up, but you're gonna want to air those tires way down once they're beadlocked, and you might run into issues then. Spacers would work, but for the amount you'd spend on 1" spacers or some such, you could have new wheels. Don't change out expensive steering arms, you'll have to shorten your drag link and tie rod (or at least adjust them in). The wheels Boonie, the wheels!

Boonie Buster · Dec 2, 2008

NotMatt said:
Order some 15's with 3" backspacing and be done with it. Everything else is kind of a bandaid. The weld-on beadlock kit might fix it while aired up, but you're gonna want to air those tires way down once they're beadlocked, and you might run into issues then. Spacers would work, but for the amount you'd spend on 1" spacers or some such, you could have new wheels. Don't change out expensive steering arms, you'll have to shorten your drag link and tie rod (or at least adjust them in). The wheels Boonie, the wheels!

ya, i think new arms might cure it though...:eeek: I really dont want to go any wider.... but ya, it might not be enough to fix my problem. I know my Tie Rod could afford to be adjusted in some... and it hasnt been aligned, so no skin off my back there if i have to adjust in some...

I will just run the 39's until someone wants to buy them...:corn:

Grommit327 · Dec 2, 2008

Try these...1.5" tall and 6" from ball joint to TRE with 10* of correction

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1292&action=show_detail

Boonie Buster · Dec 3, 2008

Grommit327 said:
Try these...1.5" tall and 6" from ball joint to TRE with 10* of correction

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1292&action=show_detail

Ya, i like those. MY only concern is that i will STILL have to run the 1" spacer, and with those being slightly taller than the ones i have, even with the 10* correction, they might still hit.... :eeek:

Are those poked inward at all? cus the ones I have are pretty straight, with not much inward direction... ALTHOUGH, with the center to end being 6" that might help some, i think mine are a tad longer....

ALSO :redneck: , with my steering being so wacky, i don't want to bring the TRE's too much closer to the BJ center, as this will obviously be less leverage i have for steering. Until I get the "Assist" I so need...

Main reason being the Drag link attaches on the back side of the Tie Rod, not sure if that really effects my leverage... I know it does compared to a NORMAL setup, but not sure copared to one that connects on the FRONT side of the Tie rod...

PIC:

There you can see what i am talking about a little better... but at the far end is where it's hitting the tire...:booo:

Grommit327 · Dec 3, 2008

Wow...that's a wacky looking setup with the DL behind the TR. Any clearance issues with your TR hitting the pitman arm?

Boonie Buster · Dec 3, 2008

Grommit327 said:
Wow...that's a wacky looking setup with the DL behind the TR. Any clearance issues with your TR hitting the pitman arm?

not that i can tell. but ya, you see what i'm dealing with now...

The steering box is kinda in a weird spot and can't be moved forward.

Grommit327 · Dec 3, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
not that i can tell. but ya, you see what i'm dealing with now... The steering box is kinda in a weird spot and can't be moved forward.

Still the arm geometry shouldn't be any different than a regular steering setup on a D44

Pat · Dec 3, 2008

Have you flexed it with this steering setup? It sure seems like the tie rod will contact the pitman arm and/or bind with the drag link.

And what about Ackerman angle? Moving TRE's back and forth and right to left will change Ackerman. I've been researching highsteer for my own rig and it seems like there will always be an undesirable compromise somewhere.

Boonie Buster · Dec 4, 2008

Pat said:
Have you flexed it with this steering setup? It sure seems like the tie rod will contact the pitman arm and/or bind with the drag link.

And what about Ackerman angle? Moving TRE's back and forth and right to left will change Ackerman. I've been researching highsteer for my own rig and it seems like there will always be an undesirable compromise somewhere.

When i go home this weekend I will double check for marks or indications it's been hitting, but i don't think it is. :eeek:

Boonie Buster · Dec 10, 2008

Too update, my uber, always blown out of proportion dilema:

I borrowed a 15x8 rim with 3.75 b.s. and the tire clears the TRE with about 1/4" clearance, even aired down to nothing, which didn't seem to effect it, as the TRE's on the high side of the rim, where the bulge wont hit. :awesomework: So now on to the search for another set of rims. :redneck:

Grommit327 · Dec 10, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
Too update, my uber, always blown out of proportion dilema:

I borrowed a 15x8 rim with 3.75 b.s. and the tire clears the TRE with about 1/4" clearance, even aired down to nothing, which didn't seem to effect it, as the TRE's on the high side of the rim, where the bulge wont hit. :awesomework: So now on to the search for another set of rims. :redneck:

That sounds about where it should be