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Okay, Dodge CTD guys...

I'd buy a powerstroke. I personally hate my 4.10's in my truck. Gears make up for power and when you set up a 12 valve right it has enough power with 3.50 gears and 38"s. If you only tow local and don't go out of state then the 4.10's would be ok, but in states like Nevada it is nice to be able to roll along at 75-80 mph while towing (and not consume to much fuel). :beer:
 
Fullywrecked said:
I'd buy a powerstroke. I personally hate my 4.10's in my truck. Gears make up for power and when you set up a 12 valve right it has enough power with 3.50 gears and 38"s. If you only tow local and don't go out of state then the 4.10's would be ok, but in states like Nevada it is nice to be able to roll along at 75-80 mph while towing (and not consume to much fuel). :beer:
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A Powerstroke? For real? Seems I've heard you talk up your truck both here and on the SNORT boards. What RPM range do the 12 valves seem to be happiest cruising along at when towing?
 
Nuzzy said:
Let me clarify... I guess a better question would be, Do the manuals have drastically different overdrive gearing than the autos? Not talking about axle gearing at all.

I was just confused at the comment that 4.10s would have a top speed of 70 mph when my CTD with 4.10s will easily do 90+...
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I think they are governed higher with an auto. 24V do rev higher in stock form and can pull to 3k quite easy. 12V manuals generally fall on their face between 23 and 2500. you can get a few more revs out of them by tightening the gov springs....or just buy a gov kit and get 3 to 3300. 4.10's generally are not as fuel friendly in the states where you can do 80 towing
 
Jason C said:
I think they are governed higher with an auto. 24V do rev higher in stock form and can pull to 3k quite easy. 12V manuals generally fall on their face between 23 and 2500. you can get a few more revs out of them by tightening the gov springs....or just buy a gov kit and get 3 to 3300. 4.10's generally are not as fuel friendly in the states where you can do 80 towing
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:cool: Thanks! Makes sense.
 
definitely a great deal, and you need to listen to bunk on the keeper fix. I have basically the same truck but with a 5in lift and love it. With 35s the 4.10s will be great. I have 35s and 350s and it is fine too. Gotta snag this up though its a good deal.
 
Boomer said:
A Powerstroke? For real? Seems I've heard you talk up your truck both here and on the SNORT boards. What RPM range do the 12 valves seem to be happiest cruising along at when towing?
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2k RPM's is a good spot to pull hills at. My other truck would pull 15K Or 22K GCVW and pull it at 1500 RPMs at 55 mph up White pass (from the west side) All the way to the top. (It had more power but pulling that much weight up the winding corners 55 is fast enough). The lower the RPM's towing the harder it is on the clutch. Your best fuel economy is under 2000RPM at cruising speeds. I get 3-4 MPG worse because of 4:10 gears in the current truck I have. It only has 215/85/16's, The 35's will prob help your gearing alot. IMHO I hope its in your driveway for that price.:beer:
 
autos have a taller overdrive.

I had 315's, robbed quite a bit more mileage and power then my 285's. Right now I run 305-70-16 (same truck as that but 3.54's). But if I had 4.10's I'd still be running 315's. Although I'd get better tires if you're hauling a camper. Buy the truck.

Oh yea and if Fullywrecked's truck can do 80 with 215's and 4.10's. That truck with 35's can do just a weeeeee little bit faster then 70 :flipoff:
 
Lucky Jeff said:
also. The Auto SRW dodges have Dana 70 rear. Manual SRW have Dana 80 center and 70 outters. Duallys have a true Dana 80.
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In order to get a Dana 80 in a ford you have to buy a F450. All the 96-98 215 pump 12 valves I've owned don't defuel until 2850 rpm So for the average guy they won't need a governer spring kit. And I can get 85mph out of my 215's and 4.10s at 3200 rpm. With 35's you should be able to pull 100mph at the govener.
 
My truck fell flat on it's face at 2500. The dyno sheets show it. I definitely needed the GSK. It's all in who put the springs in that day at Cummins.
 
My truck wouldnt even hit 2100...now it peaks at 2250...way easier to drive.3kgsk is a must do
 
For anyone who still cares, I went ahead and purchased the truck. Now to get the KDP done. The truck seems to run really well, pulls all the way to 27-2800rpms. I think I'm going to like the 4.10 gear - 315/75/R16 tire combination. I'm not sure a 3GSK would make a big difference on this truck, but I may eventually give it a try.

The $9875 I paid was probably a fair price. Not great, not too high, just fair. The truck does have a few what I consider to be minor issues, which being 9 years old with over 180,000 miles I would expect. It needs

A new windshield ($260 installed from Airport Glass)
Fuel level sending unit ($60 from Dwayne Lane's Dodge, can probably do better)
Passenger side power window switch ($45 from Dwayne Lane's, can probably do better)
I want to change the VSS/speedo drive gear to correct the speedometer ($30 from Dwayne Lane's)
KDP ($50 for a kit from TST or $3 for just the tab from Cummins)
The cruise control and HVAC controls do not work, found a broken vacuum hose under the driver's side battery that when fixed should cure the problem (hopefully free)
Not sure if the truck needs new shocks or if it this is just the way it rides.
Has typical 2nd Gen steering slop. It does not have newer TREs as I previously thought. So those, work to the track bar, and a DSS are somehwere off in the future.
The canopy has a small crack in it that I will patch with fiberglass.
The tires are down to probably 25-30%. I'm thinking Toyo Open Country M/Ts when that time comes.
And getting the bed Line-X'd.
 
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Boomer said:
For anyone who still cares, I went ahead and purchased the truck. Now to get the KDP done. The truck seems to run really well, pulls all the way to 27-2800rpms. I think I'm going to like the 4.10 gear - 315/75/R16 tire combination. I'm not sure a 3GSK would make a big difference on this truck, but I may eventually give it a try.

The $9875 I paid was probably a fair price. Not great, not too high, just fair. The truck does have a few what I consider to be minor issues, which being 9 years old with over 180,000 miles I would expect. It needs

A new windshield ($260 installed from Airport Glass)
Fuel level sending unit ($60 from Dwayne Lane's Dodge, can probably do better)
Passenger side power window switch ($45 from Dwayne Lane's, can probably do better)
I want to change the VSS/speedo drive gear to correct the speedometer ($30 from Dwayne Lane's)
KDP ($50 for a kit from TST or $3 for just the tab from Cummins)
The cruise control and HVAC controls do not work, found a broken vacuum hose under the driver's side battery that when fixed should cure the problem (hopefully free)
Not sure if the truck needs new shocks or if it this is just the way it rides.
Has typical 2nd Gen steering slop. It does not have newer TREs as I previously thought. So those, work to the track bar, and a DSS are somehwere off in the future.
The canopy has a small crack in it that I will patch with fiberglass.
The tires are down to probably 25-30%. I'm thinking Toyo Open Country M/Ts when that time comes.
And getting the bed Line-X'd.
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Congradulations on your purchase. sounds like oyu got a 180K dodge :) if the broken line does not fix your cruise it may be the clock spring in the steering wheel. the 3k Gov springs will make it pul to the 33 to 35K range.
 
Binder said:
WRONG! Many 350's and even some 250's have a 80 in them.
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No 250's had them. I did space on the dually F350's because they did come with them (I have heard but never seen one). As usual you have no facts to back up what you are trying to prove.:rolleyes:
 
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Lucky Jeff said:
also. The Auto SRW dodges have Dana 70 rear. Manual SRW have Dana 80 center and 70 outters. Duallys have a true Dana 80.
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You sure about that... I am pretty sure my d-80 SRW has 37 spline axles. same as dually. if memory serves me correctly I think they use the same bearing but have the wheel offset in a different location on the wheelhub was the only change..... and in that case the location of the backing plate since the dually would have bigger brakes. than again Trevor's and my truck have factory swaybar and oveload springs in them which I found odd since I had only seen those options on a dually... you know any more of this Jeff?
 
Jason C said:
You sure about that... I am pretty sure my d-80 SRW has 37 spline axles. same as dually. if memory serves me correctly I think they use the same bearing but have the wheel offset in a different location on the wheelhub was the only change..... and in that case the location of the backing plate since the dually would have bigger brakes. than again Trevor's and my truck have factory swaybar and oveload springs in them which I found odd since I had only seen those options on a dually... you know any more of this Jeff?
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It's actually more rare to not have overloads and sway bar on any of the dodges. regardless of being 2500 and 3500 (my truck doesn't have em :mad: ). As far as the specifics on the axle being a hybrid. I can't tell exactly how it's different. Thats just what I was told. I did find out that for some reason. Some of the Dodges had a 3.5" housing, and some had a 4". The guy that built my traction bars has a truck identical to mine. 5 speed long bed quad cab 4x4 2500. And he has a 3.5" axle housing, mine is 4" :wtf: . Dodge is pretty damn screwy.

oh and get the GSK. It makes a big difference. Just because it's called a 3k kit. Doesn't mean it stops there. I run mine up to 36-3700 with the 3K GSK. The 4k kit will run ya up to 4800. I don't want to tempt myself to run the truck that high.
 
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