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Opinions on yota axles vs 40s

smbroady82 said:
The front may be ok with it being a lighter rig and rear engine.

Just don't romp on it a lot or it will break.

I broke about every moing part with 37reds, that was over about 5 years (all mini truck/low pinion/8in stuff). But, I have been told that I'm rough on my rig.

And Bill runs some kind of fj stuff just FYI.
Bill's rear axle is just a 8" ifs rear axle with 4.10 gears. I'm not sure on his front axle
 
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Rokcrler said:
Bill is not running mini truck axles
I think you are thinking about the single seat buggy, he runs fj stuff in it. But im pretty sure the two seat buggy is running mini truck axles. I know the rear axle is.
 
toyota104 said:
I think you are thinking about the single seat buggy, he runs fj stuff in it. But im pretty sure the two seat buggy is running mini truck axles. I know the rear axle is.

In that case I wanna wheel with Bill...he seems like a pretty cool guy :****:
 
Anyone know a round about weight of a built "Toyota" axle? I realize there's a number or variables!! Just trying to get an idea how much lighter Toyota stuff is v/s a Dana 60 or Spider Trax front end.
 
Blase said:
Anyone know a round about weight of a built "Toyota" axle? I realize there's a number or variables!! Just trying to get an idea how much lighter Toyota stuff is v/s a Dana 60 or Spider Trax front end.

not sure of exact #s, but "A Lot"

fully dressed yota axle is easy to move by one guy

60, forget about it
 
toyota104 said:
Bill's rear axle is just a 8" ifs rear axle with 4.10 gears. I'm not sure on his front axle

ah, I must have been thinking about his other buggy

I've never rode with him in the 2 seater

must be nice to have 2 lol
 
both of my buggies are 8" ifs rears and fj40 fronts. With mini truck outters six shooters and RCV's .. I can break almost at will. But I have almost 8 years of seat time on most of the same parts. I know my limits. Some breaks are wear and tear. So you were almost all right. Hit me up I ride all I can.
 
Guess I left out some details The axles are 8" stock stuff with 4:10 gears. 4to1 tcase gears


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Looks like mixed opinions which is what I expected thanks for all of the feedback


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I could have almost any kind of buggy I want. I love mine. as for stock axles on 40s , If you drive easy/crawl, DRIVE , pick many lines . no WOT hill killing . don't have a big motor. 4:11 are the best gear of choice. your first gear may not be low enough. may be hard to pull them. I will always tell people to try what you want. Have fun. Enjoy the sport. How ever you want to do that..
Most of all I like to work on mine, if it don't break , I don't know what to do with my self. May be not everyone is like me.
 
billstoy said:
Most of all I like to work on mine, if it don't break , I don't know what to do with my self. May be not everyone is like me.

If I couldn't constantly tinker on mine I'd sell out tomorrow.
 
Blase said:
Anyone know a round about weight of a built "Toyota" axle? I realize there's a number or variables!! Just trying to get an idea how much lighter Toyota stuff is v/s a Dana 60 or Spider Trax front end.

Still looking for weight of a built set...but here's what I've got so far. I pulled these numbers from a weight thread on Pirate.

Toy 8" front stock - 220lbs
Toy 8" rear stock - 150lbs

So let's say you've got a 4 link upper truss which is additional weight of around 10lbs. The leaf spring mounts and traction bar mount on the stock housing will work out to be about what shock and link mounts would be. The diff won't change much with a locker and any difference in shafts is probably negligible also. Most people upgrade brakes a little so we can throw another 10lbs at it for that. If you're running a front hoop with full hydro ram let's add another 10lbs worth of tubing and mounts.

So that makes a front axle come out to around 250lbs.

For the rear it's gonna get an upper link truss and link mounts so let's add 15lbs after taking away the weight of leaf spring perches and shock mounts. It'll lose drums and go with discs which might actually be close to the same weight. Again there won't be much change in the weight of the 3rd and axle shafts.

So the rear is up to 165lbs.
 
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I'm not a very big fella, but I can pick one up with a truss and steering and put it into my truck bed. It's hard as hell for me, but have done it twice.

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I put a set of f/r 8" on a skid with 1/4" plate+tube trusses & v6 3rds and the shipping weight was under 500#.

Basically a pair of yota axles weighs what a 60 front does (or less)
 
I am running 39 reds with toy axles. The rear is ifs 4.56 with spool and chromo axles. The front is low pinion with 4.56 and Detroit, OG longs and TG studless hubs. So far so good. I don't beat on my junk but I am not easy on it either. I met a guy at Feb Jam in a bad ass Sammy buggy running 40 treps, he had toy axles running a zuk motor was climbing everything at Hale that day with no problems. But, I don't know how his stuff has been holding up.
 
paradisepwoffrd said:
I would suggest reds over treps. There is a big difference in tire weight between the two.

Best I can remember there's a 15lb difference between a 40 trep and 39 red.
 
I ran 40" treps on my Sami when I first got it. It is 1.6 with mini truck axles. I didn't break anything but I only ran them a few trips because I didn't have enough gear to pull them to my satisfaction. I now run 37 treps and don't cut it any slack 1st,2nd, and 3rd gear are all useable and get used when necessary.. I haven't had any problems so far but am in the process of swapping to a 22r, the added power might change that. Ring gear is definetly the weak spot IMO, i run 4.10s in hopes that they are a little stronger.
 
I like this discussion! So in the interest of keeping it going......Guys running Toyota axles what do your rigs weight? Seems like they would be a lot lighter than a LS spidertrax axled buggy
 

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