Money Mark
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2006
- Messages
- 563
I'm sure it will, cause you never actaully wheel.:corn:
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Project Joining the Dark side!
- Thread starter War-Jeeper
- Start date
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Thats what happens when you have two broken rigs and not enough money or time to fix either of them:redneck:
Until now that is:corn:
81yota1
Well-Known Member
any new pics? :beer:
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Not yet but soon:masturbanana[1]:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Here is the new donor. Came out of an 85' pickup
As the stock one sat
BOOM!!!! ya, OUTA THERE
And as the broken turd sits. I am waiting for my group of ninja midgets to grab it--drag it into the neighbors yard just for the hell of it
As the stock one sat
BOOM!!!! ya, OUTA THERE
And as the broken turd sits. I am waiting for my group of ninja midgets to grab it--drag it into the neighbors yard just for the hell of it
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
SWEET! I got a clutch here for ya, will get it to you ASAP!
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
:cheer::cheer::hi:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Sam will be out using it in no time :awesomework:
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
:cheer: good to see your rig getting some attention again sam, wish i still had a rig a could thrash on, oh well someday:stirpot:
i just realized you had triple cases, any idea what your final ratio on triple low is?
i just realized you had triple cases, any idea what your final ratio on triple low is?
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Im already excitied, cant wait to wheel with ya again Kevin!
Its somewhere in the little over 300 range:redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so tonight I started prepping the motor. It sits fully assembled and on this one I won't be totaly ripping the harness apart to save time plus the harness is in excelent shape except for a couple minor things.
Here is the only broken wire at the motor. I will share my method for fixing this that guarantees a good repair.
The harness above the starter
At the ecm and cross body connectors. A few wires at the cross body connector are cut which is not a big deal since they are different. I will handle that later.
The wires from the harness that shoot over the valve cover to the igniter were repaired poorly so I just lopped them off and will repair those later.
Here is the only broken wire at the motor. I will share my method for fixing this that guarantees a good repair.
The harness above the starter
At the ecm and cross body connectors. A few wires at the cross body connector are cut which is not a big deal since they are different. I will handle that later.
The wires from the harness that shoot over the valve cover to the igniter were repaired poorly so I just lopped them off and will repair those later.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
On this version the only thing I am removing is the vacuum soloniod for the fuel regulator. There was also a 2 wire connector coming out of the harness in the same spot that for the life of me I could not remember what it was for. I lopped the wires off and here is how I do it to ensure you never have an issue.
When you cut the wires make sure to stagger them, this will ensure you will never get a short bewteen them in case one of them has voltage of any kind. This can apply to anything. Once cut just use some heat shrink--this will make sure they stay in place and are sealed from the elements.
When you cut the wires make sure to stagger them, this will ensure you will never get a short bewteen them in case one of them has voltage of any kind. This can apply to anything. Once cut just use some heat shrink--this will make sure they stay in place and are sealed from the elements.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Now here is how I repair broken wires since this is a common occurance on the older toy wiring. It gets hard an brittle where its exposed then the insulation will crack and that just lets the stands of wire wiggle and break.
Remove the broken connector and peel out the sealed element around the wire. Once thats done use a pick of something along those lines and release the lock for the terminal and slide it out.
Take the removed terminal and spread open the area that retains the wire with insulation around it.
Once its spreadd open take the wire and bend it up 90 degrees
Now take the wire and bend it torwards the spead open portion and back up 90 degrees. Continue to do this until the strands of wire break off. If you have done it correctly the strands of wire that are still retained on the terminal where the strands are crimped will be a nice sharp break.
First take the sealed element and slide it down on the wire on the harness.
Now take the wire on the harness and cut it back a bit and remove about 1/8" of insulation. Now take the terminal and we will re-use the spead open portion that we recently spread open. There are a couple methods to crimp the spead open area of the terminal back down against the wire--one using a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully crimp the ears back down. Myself I like to use the factory way and I use whats called an F crimper. If done right the ears on the terminal will look the same as it did before. I also like to solder it to ensure a good solid contact. Sorry for the poor picture
Shove the terminal back into the connector body and seal element and wala!!
Remove the broken connector and peel out the sealed element around the wire. Once thats done use a pick of something along those lines and release the lock for the terminal and slide it out.
Take the removed terminal and spread open the area that retains the wire with insulation around it.
Once its spreadd open take the wire and bend it up 90 degrees
Now take the wire and bend it torwards the spead open portion and back up 90 degrees. Continue to do this until the strands of wire break off. If you have done it correctly the strands of wire that are still retained on the terminal where the strands are crimped will be a nice sharp break.
First take the sealed element and slide it down on the wire on the harness.
Now take the wire on the harness and cut it back a bit and remove about 1/8" of insulation. Now take the terminal and we will re-use the spead open portion that we recently spread open. There are a couple methods to crimp the spead open area of the terminal back down against the wire--one using a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully crimp the ears back down. Myself I like to use the factory way and I use whats called an F crimper. If done right the ears on the terminal will look the same as it did before. I also like to solder it to ensure a good solid contact. Sorry for the poor picture
Shove the terminal back into the connector body and seal element and wala!!
Boosted
Well-Known Member
Webcam no workie? I cant get my voyuerism goin.... :redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Now onto the area near the starter. On this version there is one large white connector (actually 2 connectors in one). One black and black/white wire(large guage) and one red and red/blue wire. The other 2 connector wires are light green and green/red. The back and black/white wires can be lopped off and sealed. The red and red/blue are for the backup lamp switch on the tranny. The 4x4 switch on the rig has 2 wires (For some reason I recal the later model 4x4 switchs being a single wire).
So I lopped off the red and red/blue wires off the white connector and extended the wires.
Now since the 4x4 switch is 2 wires here is how I aproached this. The light green and green/red wires go thru the harness to the cross body connector so I just took those wires and extened them for the 4x4 switch--pretty simple really.
So I lopped off the red and red/blue wires off the white connector and extended the wires.
Now since the 4x4 switch is 2 wires here is how I aproached this. The light green and green/red wires go thru the harness to the cross body connector so I just took those wires and extened them for the 4x4 switch--pretty simple really.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I am outa the shop trying to un-wind :redneck: The machine I was going to use for the webcam took a dump so I have to use my laptop till I can scrounge up another one..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
For the fuel feed I am using the same adapter I have used before (summit # EAR-807691ERL)
For some reason they made this adpater to fit on a toy fuel filter but not fully fit the filter. The area thats supposed to fit in the U notch of the filter is too large.
If you want you can just bend that tab over--but I prefer to know that adapter it not going to move and possably loosen up so I prefer to notch the filter out a little.
And wala---nice fit
For some reason they made this adpater to fit on a toy fuel filter but not fully fit the filter. The area thats supposed to fit in the U notch of the filter is too large.
If you want you can just bend that tab over--but I prefer to know that adapter it not going to move and possably loosen up so I prefer to notch the filter out a little.
And wala---nice fit
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
:cheer::cheer::masturbanana[1]::masturbanana[1]:
Boosted
Well-Known Member
Damn Mike....I love watching your work progress. Your attention to detail and perfection is unbelievable. :awesomework:
Sam, you gonna wheel this thing more than once this time? :corn:
Sam, you gonna wheel this thing more than once this time? :corn:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
By the looks of it, could use a new filter!!!:haha:
