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rear steer caster settings

Bebop said:
If you set it at 0, during down travel it's going to become positive. That's why I was told to set it at 6 or 7 like the front.
Click to expand...

Of course it all depends on your link setup, but wouldn't it go negative with the normal link setup?
 
I'd put the top of the steering axis leaning back toward the rear, same as the front. (Whatever you want to call that +/- in the rear)
 
Forbanger said:
Of course it all depends on your link setup, but wouldn't it go negative with the normal link setup?
Click to expand...

Yeah, brain fart. My bad.

I meant negative and you don't want that.
 
Trust me this won't be a quick build and when I do start it I'll update my build thread on my buggy. By my quick retard math, it'll cost about 7-8k to build one right and reliable. That's bare minimum. So I'll just gather and build, gather and build, etc.
 
pholmann said:
Trust me this won't be a quick build and when I do start it I'll update my build thread on my buggy. By my quick retard math, it'll cost about 7-8k to build one right and reliable. That's bare minimum. So I'll just gather and build, gather and build, etc.
Click to expand...
Lol... My goal for mine is under $2500.... 37's 4 wheel steer dual cases... Wish me luck...
 
I said build one right. Right definitely means different things to different people. I won't ever run stock kingpin knuckles again. I won't do non chromoly axles or standard ujoints. I definitely want the self centering deal from stazworls. I gave up on trying to do things cheap a long while back and started just going for strong and reliable. I hate breaking **** and I'm running 450ish hp. Expensive is the only way to go in my scenario.
 
Oh I hear ya.... I'll be running WAY less hp and prolly still go way over budget....

Gonna start out simple till I decide if I'm gonna be happy with a buggy... Not sure about giving up on a full cab yet.

I'm planning on coordinating front and rear steer on the same circuit like a tele-handler but will look into this self centering system ... Hadn't heard of it.
 
I like the theory of what your saying about them being part of the same circuit, buuuuut what happens when one of your cylinders starts bypassing a little. Then your shits not synced anymore. It's probably best to keep them separate hydraulic circuits.

As far as the stazworls stuff. It's costly. About half your set budget. Its not a necessity but it's something I want.

http://stazworks.com/steering.htm
 
A friend of mine in France made his own self centering setup and integrated the sensors inside the hydraulic ram so no extra little ram (prone to breakage/getting knocked off the knuckle) would be needed.

Neat setup and it works awesome. I always thought about marketing it and selling that but IDK if it would be very cost effective as there is a lot of time on the ram machining.
 
The way a tele-handler works is it has 3 modes... Circle steer, crab steer, and front only steer...
You can sync it any time in a couple seconds...

Put in either 4ws mode and turn steering wheel till rear is centered, then put in front steer mode and center front.... Then you can go back into 4ws....

It can get confusing until you get used to it and wouldn't be a good choice for racing or competition where you didn't have time to keep up with it...

Just got done looking at the stazworks stuff... Very nice
 
I believe John G experimented with that on his jeep back in the day. I thought I heard him say that once, I could be wrong. Who lever it was scrapped it quick and went with seperate controls with seperate pump.
 
You really don't want them tied together, you need to be able to work the rear only to really make the buggy effective with getting into tight spots.Rear steer is addicting once you get comfortable with it
 
gottagofast said:
The way a tele-handler works is it has 3 modes... Circle steer, crab steer, and front only steer...
You can sync it any time in a couple seconds...

Put in either 4ws mode and turn steering wheel till rear is centered, then put in front steer mode and center front.... Then you can go back into 4ws....

It can get confusing until you get used to it and wouldn't be a good choice for racing or competition where you didn't have time to keep up with it...

Just got done looking at the stazworks stuff... Very nice
Click to expand...
I believe one of the reasons that this hasn't taken off is the volume of oil available from a PS pump.

For example front and rear steering cylinders are identical, you have 4 turns lock to lock when steering the front. Now for this system to work in 4 wheel steer mode you have 8 turns lock to lock, to get back to 4 turns you have to double the displacement of the oribital and double the amount of oil flow.
.
 
84mallcrawl said:
I believe one of the reasons that this hasn't taken off is the volume of oil available from a PS pump.

For example front and rear steering cylinders are identical, you have 4 turns lock to lock when steering the front. Now for this system to work in 4 wheel steer mode you have 8 turns lock to lock, to get back to 4 turns you have to double the displacement of the oribital and double the amount of oil flow.
.
Click to expand...

Nope volume doesn't change...

Cylinders are plumbed in series.... Required pressure would change tho.
 

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