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Rillfit Groover - What am I doing wrong?

I have the one in the link too. Works well for me. I do use a tank top propane heater to preheat the tire. Makes a world of difference.
 
Sharpen a sawzall blade like a knife and use that to cut the little lugs out of the boggers. Pretty fast/easy.
 
Well the electric HF tool was doing just OK, so I went back and got the pneumatic one. It did so damn great that I went right through the damn tire with ease! ****! Between that and a hot chisel I was doing great though.

Going to see if the brand new tire can be vulcanized tomorrow. Lesson: Set some sort of stop when plunge cutting with the pneumatic multifunction tool.
 
I have an Ideal Grover. The key for me is to heat up the tire first. I put the tire on sawhorses with a kerosene heater below the tire to warm it up. Makes a biiiiiiiiiiggggg difference, I believe.

EDIT: also, blades are cheaper than your time spent muscling a dull blade through rubber is worth. Just buyxtras and change them out when needed. Dint kill yourself. Blades are like a buck a piece!
 
Here's the pattern I am after.

HIGHRIDERCut.jpg


The tire guy is going to be able to save the tire I cut through. loller.gif
 
^^^^^^ Exactly the pattern I have have been picturing in my mind!!


.Your Rillfit should have cut this easily. Mine sometimes drags- then bends if I don't tighten down the blades at the exact shape I pull them out of the package at... Like if I stretch or compress them to make the cut more narrow or wider. Could that be it?
 
I did stretch themt o be a more square shape since the angle that the sides would be cut at in "stock" form would be useless to me. BUt part of the problem is that the blade is slimmer than the head and I couldn't get very deep into the tread before the head wouldn't fit in the cut.

Regardless, the multifunction tool combined with the hot chisel is quicker even on the Rillfit's best day. I definitely found my method after hours of practice. I just need to cut the multifunction blade down so that it can't cut past the tread.
 
patooyee said:
Here's the pattern I am after.

HIGHRIDERCut.jpg


The tire guy is going to be able to save the tire I cut through. loller.gif
Click to expand...
I like that cut on the bogger I bet it works real good too more lateral movement forsure thumb.gif I have 44 tsl I been thinking bout cutting well been doin a little research and I wanna do a tn cut and I just bought a groover cause I wanna groove a little deeper between the rows of lugs I am keeping. any suggestions anybody
 
fordf250 said:
I like that cut on the bogger I bet it works real good too more lateral movement forsure thumb.gif I have 44 tsl I been thinking bout cutting well been doin a little research and I wanna do a tn cut and I just bought a groover cause I wanna groove a little deeper between the rows of lugs I am keeping. any suggestions anybody
Click to expand...
I like it.
 
http://www.rillfit.de/messer-blades.php?changelang=en

I always had the best luck with the OE blades, got some cheaper ones from my retreading shop but like you experienced, it was slow going.

It also helped to wipe clean the tread the head was going to slide on. I just cranked the heat up and pushed like hell and slow just before exit. Took a bit of practice but it worked.

The OEM blades did not have this issue and would not burn up as easily from my experience.
 
After reading this thread I made a trip to Harbor Freight and picked up the pneumatic muiltitool. I was amazed how well this tool works. For 25$ total invested I don't believe there is a better bang for the buck, here are my results.




 
The hot chisel is faster but is a pain to keep heating up and I prefer to have several around so that a couple can be cooling down while you are still using another. That way when a handle starts melting off I know to switch and let it cool down.

Something I learned very quickly about the HF pneumatic tool: The package says 90psi max and it means it. Really, what it means is 80 psi max. At 120 psi my first one spat the bearings out the end. At 90 PSI my second one started pushing grease out of them. I dialed it down to 80 psi and it seems to be happier now. The HF unit is well worth the money for grooving one set at 80 psi but if this was something I was doing regularly I would definitely buy a better one. The pneumatic one absolutely KILLS the electric, no comparison.
 
I think this may be what he is using in that video:

LANC_SQUIRE.jpg

http://katools.com/carving-tools/lancelot-and-squire-cutters/

I have that and also this:

tire-grinding-discs-424.jpg

http://www.daymotorsports.com/proddisp.php?ln=11112&product=TIRE+GRINDING+DISC&partnumber=TG-424&description=Make+your+tires+%22fire%22+faster+and+freshen+old+tires.+Perfect+for+grinding+harden

The second one is actually what I just recently caught my finger in and had to get 10 stitches to fix.

I've found that each tool has its place depending on the cut. But in terms of just mass removal of bulk rubber nothing is as fast as the hot chisel if you can get the right angle at what you are cutting.
 

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