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RZR Diffs and Drivetrain

J.A.B

J.A.B

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Greg may move this but I thought I'd get more looks or better responses here.

So, I'm at a loss about upgrading the front diff, driveshaft, carrier bearing and so on in a 1000 xp. There's so much stuff out there from Internet vendors and back yard shops but it all appears basically the same.

What are people running that are racing, what's actually holding up?

Thanks!
 
We have not got into front diff stuff but have helped some guys with the other stuff the shafts we built we told them if the broke them we would fix them for free give us a call at Athens driveline and we will help you with what we can Tim
 
Axles - Super ATV Rhino 2.0's are my current choice. For the price, these are hard to beat. I think retail is around $250 an axle, but they can easily be had around $200 if you look hard enough. Right now, the only thing I would change to would be RCV or Turner, and I would need a substantial discount to make the leap.

Driveline - I have run nothing but OEM. I recently replaced the factory carrier bearing with a generic part off Amazon. There are a few good options here including but not limited to: RCV, KB3, and multiple custom shops and other brands. Personally, I'm not a fan of solid mounting my carrier bearing when the motor and trans aren't. In addition, I wouldn't be surprised to find out that the frames on these things flex a significant amount in a hardcore environment.

Differential - I run a DC Motorsports Stage 1 in my OEM case. It took parts to get it right due to a worn ring gear, but once I got that done, it has been perfect.

Same stuff I ran last year, and the same stuff I plan on running this year unless free parts show up in my mailbox. I could probably be more detailed if you had something specific in mind.
 
Depends on how good your right foot is at being off the throttle when the front comes down. I have excellent luck out of my diffs that I brainstormed the ideas for with my buddy ben, and Kenny at KB3 put together. Bronze pilot with plastic between cups tuned to your case width with oiling grooves. If you're about to go all out, lets get a RS1 diff in there.
Driveline, I got by for a LONG time on a retubed stock one, I use .120 1.25" 4130 N tube, lathe the pilot on the yoke to fit, interference on there, indicate in, rock out. A joint will get bindy and shitty when the ears tweak in relation to each other. You have to maintain snap ring gap and plane. If out of plane or gap, joint will bind. Fairly easy fix, use spicer joints. I never had a carrier failure, but put KB3 full carrier and driveshaft in and rubber mounted under the carrier. It was free as I helped him develop a lot of ****, and the yokes were turned too large (his first batch) so I had to tig all the caps in. It was all his scrap pile stuff but that's right up my alley laughing1. I have an RCV and a KB3 front trans output (running KB3 in machine), but my trans explosion problems have been related to the pinion retaining ring bolts pulling out of the case. Heli-coil these. Problem solved thus far. Never have hurt the output from my blow up **** ups.
I run and sell Rhino 2.0's. Having good luck out of them. Good warranty, seem to be a good product as I've broken a lot of **** around them and not them yet
 
blacksheep10 said:
Kinda. Different driving style. Pretend it's a LP d44 front with 37's and never land on the gas and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...
:gay:
 
At RBD this year, there were 3 of us in JRich's Ranger crew cab going up a pretty steep hill, came to a place where he had to bump it a couple times, nothing stupid, and we heard a loud pop, got looking, and the rear diff was cracked into! I mean, stick your fingers into the crack!
 
Re: Re: RZR Diffs and Drivetrain

zukimaster said:
At RBD this year, there were 3 of us in JRich's Ranger crew cab going up a pretty steep hill, came to a place where he had to bump it a couple times, nothing stupid, and we heard a loud pop, got looking, and the rear diff was cracked into! I mean, stick your fingers into the crack!
Click to expand...
Was Marsha in there?

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 
Back to serious time, that was a Ranger and they have a open differential on the rear that you can lock, but it is simply holding one side gear still and assuming that if you load the opposite tire that it won't explode the case, which it often does. Rzrs don't have that
 
Re: RZR Diffs and Drivetrain

I've heard of this and it makes me nervous about my Ranger. I pretty much lock the rear unless I'm on asphalt or in the yard where I don't want to tear up the grass. I've also heard that the bolts can work their way out of the turf mode deal and blow **** up?

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onepieceatatime said:
I've heard of this and it makes me nervous about my Ranger. I pretty much lock the rear unless I'm on asphalt or in the yard where I don't want to tear up the grass. I've also heard that the bolts can work their way out of the turf mode deal and blow **** up?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
So, IMO, I told my buddy to run it unlocked. I saw a blown up one apart and it looked to me, like I said, you're holding the left side gear to the case, you load the right axle/side gear, it wants to turn, it tries to spin the spiders, they decide to spin and the carrier has nowhere to go but out/apart. Unlocked you should just lose traction and the spiders should run around the tire with traction. That's what looked like the failure mode was when I looked at the blown up one, but, I've not dug into it. Just looked at some broken parts with no backstory. I gave the guy a spool out of a lunched rzr trans so the turf mode was gone.
 

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