Ty.
Well-Known Member
Missing links may unload at the worst of times. Toy axles with wrangler springs flexes great, its an easy set up and you won't need any ladder bars.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Sammy Power
- Thread starter NotSoPC
- Start date
NotSoPC
Well-Known Member
Soa
With the lift springs and a SOA I would be up around 10" or so. With the toy axles and some 34 or 35 skinnys would I be asking for trouble? I plan on a locker and 5.29 gearing in the toys. :scratchhead:
I have heard of the missing links unloading but mostly the revolver ones. Trail Tough had some and I was not to sure what the thought was about them on the sammys.
With the lift springs and a SOA I would be up around 10" or so. With the toy axles and some 34 or 35 skinnys would I be asking for trouble? I plan on a locker and 5.29 gearing in the toys. :scratchhead:
I have heard of the missing links unloading but mostly the revolver ones. Trail Tough had some and I was not to sure what the thought was about them on the sammys.
Your question about toy axles.
I run 35x14.50 rockers on a stock toyota front end and a stock welded rear end. I do not have a light foot at all. But I also never crank my wheels and floor it. When I lock the front I will be getting some longs but as of right know I have been running this setup since I started wheeling and never broke a thing. Well there was the front ring and pinoin when I was doing a FWD smoke show on pavement.
samicrawler
Well-Known Member
I have been running Toy axles with 5.29s, a lock-right front and welded rear for 7 years and I haven't broke anything at all. I don't shy away from turning the wheel when on the throttle, that is the plus to the 1.3 it doesn't have much torque to break anything. I'm sure that it is possible but I haven't done it yet. I also run Toy rear springs all around and they flex great but I did have to put the short thick spring back in the rear to fight axle wrap. The stock front axle is complete junk with anything larger than 31s so you will want to swap that crap out as soon as poss. If you can build things like spring plates, shackles, shock hoops, etc. it will save you some money. Those Calmini springs suck and your Sami would be way to high with them and a soa. Just check on Craigslist and try to find some Wrangler springs or Toy rears. 
When I swap out the 1.3 in my sami, it will be for another 2.3 ford/mazda and five speed like the LJ has. IMHO you can't beat the reliability vs. cost factor. You can find them in just about anything, pinto, ranger, b2300, mustang, bobcat.....for cheap. The first version of the LJ was a 78 Pinto 2.3 with weber and tk 4 speed, picked the truck up for $200 and the motor had a recent rebuild. I BEAT on this motor and trans for about 3 years, and finally swapped it out for the 97 mazda motor and trans because the old pinto motor finally needed a clutch, and I wanted FI. Picked the mazda up for $350.
The only other swap I would concider would be a 1.6, only for the simplicity and cost of it. And even then, you're stuck with the sami trans still.
The only other swap I would concider would be a 1.6, only for the simplicity and cost of it. And even then, you're stuck with the sami trans still.
NotSoPC
Well-Known Member
I am thinking the 1.6 will be the best for me for now as I will drive this on road alot for fun and seem to be the easy, fast way to do it. After looking at the lift thats on it I will be going with the YJ set up soa on toy axles. How does the toy rear spring thing work out? How far did you have to move the mounts? How does it drive down the road?
I will be running 33's after the axles go in and maybe down the road some 35's.
I will be running 33's after the axles go in and maybe down the road some 35's.
NotSoPC
Well-Known Member
The cam may just be a must:awesomework:
Spinnaker
Member
If you are not running EFI or planning to, you can do a Harley carb swap. Zuks Off Road (ZOR) sells a kit as well as Petroworks.
I built my own setup however. I'm all into my setup for about $85 including the carb (ebay) and the Uni airfilter. Here is a pic of my setup.
It runns really strong on my old worn out 1.3, but I have yet to adjust the jets for my new 1.6 but it still pulls very hard.
I built my own setup however. I'm all into my setup for about $85 including the carb (ebay) and the Uni airfilter. Here is a pic of my setup.
It runns really strong on my old worn out 1.3, but I have yet to adjust the jets for my new 1.6 but it still pulls very hard.
zuk88
Well-Known Member
I run the missing link kit from TT and like it a lot.Tons of flex and had no problems on tough trails with unloading,run a rear traction bar because you will destroy your rear springs and the yoke on your drive shaft.
NotSoPC
Well-Known Member
If you are not running EFI or planning to, you can do a Harley carb swap. Zuks Off Road (ZOR) sells a kit as well as Petroworks.
I built my own setup however. I'm all into my setup for about $85 including the carb (ebay) and the Uni airfilter. Here is a pic of my setup.
It runns really strong on my old worn out 1.3, but I have yet to adjust the jets for my new 1.6 but it still pulls very hard.
What size carb is that? Sounds like a cool idea. Has anyone else had issues getting the stock door hinge's off? The scews are stuck on mine. I was thinking about just cutting the top peice off the hinge and going half doors. Will just the lower half hold the weight? Thanks for all the in put:beer:
Spinnaker
Member
The card is a stock unit off of a '01 Sportster 1200. It is a 40mm carb.
As for the door hinges. They can handle the weight just fine. As for the screws. You need to use an impact driver to get them off. Heat will help too!
Tim
