My buddy pointed an xj out to me at pick a part that had one. Read about it once on fwor's site. My 92 had a chrysler rear.:rb:
Your buddy must have been high.
Aluminum centersection rear dana 44 was NEVER put in an xj. They were in WJ grand cherokees from 99-04.
The chrylser 8.25 isnt a bad axle. much better than a dana 35.
The disconnect is another point of failure. Slide coller engagement issues, another place to spend money.
Trussed end to end, a dana 30 will live with 35's and a competent driver. The competent driver is the most important part. :awesomework:
Renix **** sucks ass. Get a 91-95 HO. I have an OBD2 96 that is great. Some people say stay away, but its only really a problem with forced induction. I like the diagnostic system way better.
AX5's are weaker than weak.
I have blown up two AX-15's. THey arent too bad, but IMO the AW4 is the way to go in the cherokee.
If you are gonna wheel it, front frame plates will
help.... But you need to do stiffeners from the front frame plates to the rear leaf mounts on the frame. The cherokee's are noodles. If you wheel it, you will bend it. THey are made of sheetmetal and are weak. A simple cage will do wonders if tied in correctly to the structure.
Any cherokee's you go to look at, there are several indicators of damage. Cracks in the door frame area (in the door jam) and in the roof. check how many cracks are in the hatch. Check the condition of the door hinges (if they have been repaired, Most have been, doors like to fall off)
Also, look at the passenger upper control arm mount on the axle side. If it has been bottomed HARD or crashed into something, the upper control arm/UCA mount on the axle will make contact with the Oil pan rail. Mine has a chunk missing out of the sealing surface :haha:
Look at body lines. If they have a nice arch, all the doors close and open, and the hatch looks good. Buy it.
It the body lines look "flat", unibody cracks, and other damage. Walk. :awesomework:
Dana 35 is a great excuse for a 8.8 explorer axle w/disks :awesomework: