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Single seat 4 wheel steer transaxle buggy build

mckeddie said:
I like how you're holding the shafts in the transaxle. That's the only issue I ever had w my old buggy was the shaft popping out once. It sucked something fierce when it happened.

Not to derail because I was thinking of doing similar to you but in your design but in your reading did you ever come across anyone using a spring in the slip yoke to keep the axles pushed into the transaxle?
 
I heard of people talking about it in rock apes build thread but I don't remember if anyone actually did it
 
Can you mount the Ram in between the trac bar and tierod? All your leverage would be traveling through the tierod mostly and be easier on the knuckles..and you would be able to keep the Ram parallel to the tierod. It would also be up and out of the way of rocks....a few nicks on the shaft of the ram and it will destroy the seals.
 
I could do that and actually thought about that but just requires me to cut off the mount and redo it and just don't want to kinda getting lazy/pissed at reworkinng **** on this thing but in a happier note I finally got the wiring harness removed from the civic which let me tell you is a job. The harness runs up into the dash and back to the shifter and I have started cutting it apart and getting it close to what it looks like I need to have to run it stand alone hope to get it running one day this week
 
So after a few hours of cutting and pulling wires I finally got it where it needed to be and rigged up a temp fuel system and fired it off it seems to run fine got to finish taping it up and find something to put the computer in to protect it and other than that it is done as far as wiring goes just need to install a panel with switches and start button but was able to get some fused power wires from factory fuse box
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Back to the outputs...it looks like you are poly mounted on the motor/frame. What did you end up attaching your carrier bearing setup to? I'm thinking off the transaxle/motor so it all moves together?
 
Well I haven't built the mount for the rear cv bearing but I was thinking of coming off the tourqe arm which is off the transmission but I also been working on the front cv and for it I am going to use a stock axle cv then use the car knuckle/wheel bearing and hub as a carrier then I make an adaptor to go from the car hub to a Toyota flange not finished yet but waiting on new wheel bearing but it should work pretty good also got the knuckle shaved down to pretty small size
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Been finishing up a few things like front carrier that I build out of the Honda wheel bearing and got a drive shaft mocked up also been finishing up motor mounts still working on rear mount but had to cut off what was there
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Bebop said:
I like the wheel bearing idea ! Good thinking !

X2

I was thinking of that when looking over the fwd Oldsmobile I recently scrapped, wondering why people didn't use a wheel hub as a drive shaft flange adapter.

Cool to see someone actually do it haha


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Re: Re: Single seat 4 wheel steer transaxle buggy build

TBItoy said:
X2

I was thinking of that when looking over the fwd Oldsmobile I recently scrapped, wondering why people didn€™t use a wheel hub as a drive shaft flange adapter.

Cool to see someone actually do it haha


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My only concern would be if the stock CV can handle the added torque?

I know it sees the same as the car, but I can see it being the fuse when a spinning tire catches a rock.
 
paradisepwoffrd said:
My only concern would be if the stock CV can handle the added torque?

I know it sees the same as the car, but I can see it being the fuse when a spinning tire catches a rock.

I bet it's as strong or stronger than normal 1310/Toyota driveshaft


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I look at it like this the shaft that is in the transaxle is the same spline as the shaft for the cv so hopefully it would be the same strength also they do make a chromoly axle for these cars but I have seen on some Honda forums (Yea I had to get on Honda forums) that people are using stock axles drag racing and up to 400hp this thing should have around 70 so I guess I will see
 
plus with the reduction in the diff the stock cv should be seeing less force than if it was straight to a tire
 
hhc said:
plus with the reduction in the diff the stock cv should be seeing less force than if it was straight to a tire
I was about to say the same thing. Probably less stress in the buggy with a gear reduction (axle gears) than when it was in the car direct drive to the tire


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When I scrapped the accord I was parting out I thought the exact thing on using the wheel bearing/hubs, but my application didn't really need them. Great use of what you had there, and yea, I've searched the honda forums also. Not much info out there. I learned that they can use "lsd"....limited slip diff haha.
 
My concern was more about the CVs vs the shaft. I am likely over thinking it though.

I've wanted to build one of these for a few years now, so watching vicariously.
 
I think the cv would actually be one of the stronger parts I had to take one apart to swap inputs and it is a 3 bearing cv each one of the bearings rides on a shaft that is around the size of a 1310 Ujoint cross. But I will be the first to say this is a experiment so it could fail miserably also keep in mind it is an auto trans so that dose offer some cushion from shock load
 

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