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square drive shaft

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79toy

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Im trying to decide on whether I should build my own square drive shaft or buy the marlin tube style? The trail gear 12in. with the moose knuckle was too large so maybe the 8in. will work? I have a 79 yota with 3in TG springs and 5in shackles, the sitting length from yoke to yoke is 27inches. If anyone can help me decide or has a driveline to sell, please send ur comments this way thanks
 
skinny_pedal said:
If you can't figure out how to build it straight...they blow goats
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Fixed. Plus don't be one of the idiots that uses 2" and 2 1/2" receiver tubing that is looser than a fifty cent whore on nickel night. I use 2" seamed tube and 1 1/2" for the inner and grind a groove for the seam into the inner tube. Nice snug fit still 7 years later. :redneck:
 
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I had a square drive shaft in my old 4runner, and never once had an issue with it. If money is a concern, i'd just go square and be done.
 
ever tow an empty trailer down a gravel road?


I have stock toyota slips. So do almost all trucks I build.

I have a TON of front wheel travel and have a stock toyota slip.

Guess what? they are free, they come on your truck stock! Not much more convenient than that.

If you have enormous amounts of droop then you will need to put a chain from the frame rail to the top of the diff that gets tight when you have an inch of slip left on the yoke. Pretty easy, no performance affected.
 
Another reason the long slpis and box are a POS (IMO) is the weight too.

The likely hood of a trail shaft being perfectly straight is pretty slim and when you have a crooked shaft that weighs as much as a box tube or heavy wobblin AG splines like marlin or TG than your bearings and teeth will hate you.
 
CHOP SHOP said:
ever tow an empty trailer down a gravel road?
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Yes, you got me, what's this have to do with the square shaft?

Chop Shop is right though, if you got a stock shaft, just modify it instead of a square, unless you have square tube and no stock shaft.
 
Clark said:
Yes, you got me, what's this have to do with the square shaft?
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The trailer sounds mostly like this, clang clanga clanga clang.

Just like a square tube shaft hoppin on a stump or rocks.

Most people change out a Ujoint if it has a large amount of slop, like say 1/16ths inch. Most would panic if they checked a Ujoint with an 1/8th inch of slop.

Why build a shaft out of material that starts out with 1/16 to 1/8 of slop from the day it was fabbed and gets worse?


Square drivelines work, that for sure. Just not on my list of recommendations. :beer:
 
ok, i get the sound comparison. Mine made so many noises, i never did notice the shaft in particular, the death wobble kept your mind off everything else.:redneck:
 
WHITE TRASH said:
Fixed. Plus don't be one of the idiots that uses 2" and 2 1/2" receiver tubing that is looser than a fifty cent whore on nickel night. I use 2" seamed tube and 1 1/2" for the inner and grind a groove for the seam into the inner tube. Nice snug fit still 7 years later. :redneck:
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This. I made one of these and it's on it's third rig. It only weighs three pounds more than a TG drive line and it's stronger with a lot more slip. I built it on a lathe so it's real straight. Super cheap to build. Trail only rigs so I'm not driving down the road at 50 in 4wd but who is?
 
whatthe? said:
Trail only rigs so I'm not driving down the road at 50 in 4wd but who is?
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this is the big thing that made me go with the square d-line. shes a trailer queen so why not. When im in 2wd rr though that front is annoying and when it really starts to bother me i throw her in front wheel or 4wheel just to dead the noise. I dont mind the front being square but the rr is a no no for the square idea in my opinion...

like most everything else, it comes down what your using your rig for most of the time and most off all what your budget allows. i think i spent $40 in square stock for my front dline and its done great for what its worth :redneck:
 
my buddy did the reciever stock d-line. loud as FAWK! He then put alternating tack welds on it to quiet it down. Just rebuild your stock stuff and lengthen it.
 
I'm just going to throw some thicker DOM Tubing on the front on some 4 runner shafts, and have local shop balance the rear one, did that on my bro's sami with 4 runner shafts (42 degree) and toy axles.
 
I went with the Chop Shop method when I built my shaft, stock shaft, lenthened with some Sch 40 and ensured straight by rolling it around on a flat floor, works perfect except for the worn out splines.:awesomework:

When I get some more droop out of my rig, I got it setup for a limit strap coming off the diff and going to the frame, won't affect flex at all, only the total droop when the front tires come off the ground.

Can't beat 30 minutes worth of work and free junk you already got laying around.:cool:
 
Avanteone said:
Are Toyota guys really that cheap? What's a high quality Tom Wood's driveshaft run, $250 shipped? Maybe $300?
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Lets see, my free dshaft vs your $300 shaft. Both work the same for a trail rig. With that money I got a dual case adaptor. Yeah, I should of just spent money on something I can make.
 
whatthe? said:
Lets see, my free dshaft vs your $300 shaft. Both work the same for a trail rig. With that money I got a dual case adaptor. Yeah, I should of just spent money on something I can make.
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Exactly, why pay for something I can make? I originally dropped about $50 on materials and I've built 4 or 5 drivelines out of that. A little clicking now and again is just fine with me to not have to worry about my driveline landing on a rock etc.

And its not just a yotard thing. There is a Jeep in this thread running one and I know of pretty much every brand out there running them too. Some people know a good idea when they see it. :flipoff:
 

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