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Super Joint caps pushing out / burning up

Yea didn't think about that I was thinking typical axle, ok got another fix that might work try using sleve retainer to hold the caps in maybe they don't have the best press tolerance just throwing ideas out
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redneckengineered said:
I thought about the 50 degree thing. That could very well be it, but don't a lot of the guys running Spidertrax junk turn 50 degrees with u-joints? I wouldn't think the actual brand/type of the joint would matter as long as the shafts are clearanced properly. Considering it's both sides it's most likely not a buggered shaft. I think your best bet at this point is to try some stock joints and just see what happens. Run some straight line stuff, then run some stuff at full lock or close to it with a lot of throttle. See what your results are. Either way it takes a lot to push out a tacked in cap. Before I went to CVs I tacked my caps in and never had an issue. How much power are you running?
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631HP with a pretty flat tq 550.

Nothing too crazy.
 
redneckengineered said:
I thought about the 50 degree thing. That could very well be it, but don't a lot of the guys running Spidertrax junk turn 50 degrees with u-joints? I wouldn't think the actual brand/type of the joint would matter as long as the shafts are clearanced properly. Considering it's both sides it's most likely not a buggered shaft. I think your best bet at this point is to try some stock joints and just see what happens. Run some straight line stuff, then run some stuff at full lock or close to it with a lot of throttle. See what your results are. Either way it takes a lot to push out a tacked in cap. Before I went to CVs I tacked my caps in and never had an issue. How much power are you running?
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Most people don't get a full 50 because they don't design for a full 50 from day 1. You have to plan it out carefully to get the clearance needed. That said. I haven't heard of this issue and 50 degree steering before.
 
jccarter1 said:
I have racked my brain on what would cause such a thing and all I can thing only thing I could think of would be the stub shaft not being supported well and causing slop on the rotation which would be transferred to the Ujoint ends making them want to sling out of the joint does that make any sense??????
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interesting thought. these stubs are super short with a UB.
 
Maybe the joint OD is a few thousandth's larger than what's needed to create the grease buffer between the cap and the joint. Obviously any metal to metal contact would heat up and expand to an even tighter tolerance in no time and start forcing stuff apart.

Is it pushing the caps off both inner and outer axle yokes?

Did you buy both sets of joints at the same time?

Mic the joint and the cap ID and see what the difference is. Just a thought.
 
tallnate said:
Maybe the joint OD is a few thousandth's larger than what's needed to create the grease buffer between the cap and the joint. Obviously any metal to metal contact would heat up and expand to an even tighter tolerance in no time and start forcing stuff apart.

Is it pushing the caps off both inner and outer axle yokes?

Did you buy both sets of joints at the same time?

Mic the joint and the cap ID and see what the difference is. Just a thought.
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The sets were acquired months apart. I need to ask the main man about what caps where pushing off. It happened in our first high speed suspension tuning session. Then we put new joints in, welded the caps... drove 20 (10 testing, 10 racing at KOH) or so miles and the welds broke on a cap.
 
Mine have been running over 3 years and still no problems or play. Definitely less power and slower speeds. I grease every day of riding and run the buggy in 2wd when possible to protect them. I don't see how they could ever hold up at higher speeds locked in.
 
Have you asked Randy's or Yukon or suggestions?

Using Yukon grease ?

While I dont feel liked it could generate three force we are talking here, could the joint have been installed such that there is air trapped inside? Once it heats up, it pressurizes the grease and pushes the cap out.

If the joint is binding, it could cause the ears to spread, but not the caps alone. Unless the hydraulic pressure in the cap was high enough to not allow the caps to retract once the ears pulled them out.

I can't see generating enough rotational force/speed to sling the welds loose.
 
I installed the joints , they moved free of bind in both sets . My thought is that we are not running steering stops of any kind . The axle is built for 50* steering , though I haven't measured it yet, I'm thinking without a stop it is generating more then 50* Of steering which is applying far more side load or friction on those Ujoint caps then it should . Also the old adage " just because you can doeasnt mean you should" may apply here . I think a stop welded on the knuckles so we can limit the steering to an exact number of 50* or less would be a good jump off point.
 

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