Suppose you were going to build a 60...

Bunk1 · Aug 7, 2008

After thinking about it and making a few mistakes(buying used axles) i gathered all the parts and had Dean put em together. Going from scratch was the right route for me.

Not Jobless · Aug 7, 2008

Pro-cocks are over rated, as is anything high pinion unless your d-line angles need it.

High pinions are like rear steer, for folks who can't drive

Boonie Buster · Aug 7, 2008

Jobless said:
Pro-cocks are over rated, as is anything high pinion unless your d-line angles need it.

High pinions are like rear steer, for folks who can't drive

i can't drive and i don't have rear steer or high pinion....well high pinion rear anyways...(ford 9":awesomework: )

btw, off topic jobless, I dunno if you've ever checked into it or not for your rear 9", but i found a place that sells a full float kit for a pretty reasonable price, although i wouldn't trust any place i find, as it will turn out to be a worthless mess.:haha: You ever thought about doing that?:corn:

ok, back on topic, pro-cocks are over rated....go high pinion 30 and be done:fawkdancesmiley:

Not Jobless · Aug 7, 2008

Boonie Buster said:
btw, off topic jobless, I dunno if you've ever checked into it or not for your rear 9", but i found a place that sells a full float kit for a pretty reasonable price, although i wouldn't trust any place i find, as it will turn out to be a worthless mess.:haha: You ever thought about doing that?:corn:

No need, my 9" rear allready has bored Dana 60 spindles on it with full float axles.

or do you mean full float like installing hubs? Which would be hella gay :rb:

Boonie Buster · Aug 7, 2008

Jobless said:
No need, my 9" rear allready has bored Dana 60 spindles on it with full float axles.

or do you mean full float like installing hubs? Which would be hella gay :rb:

nope, just making it full float with discs... hubs would break to0 easy i feel and no need if you have front dig.:;

(although aside from pulling the slug, the only advantage to hubs is that you don't have to open the cover and pull the slug to keep it from turning, if need be....:redneck: )

PORTER · Aug 8, 2008

I run junkyard 60s, with no high clearence, low pinion, stock turning raduis and still manage making the climbs. All that bling costs alot of money and if you dont compete is just bragging rights. Sure it would be nice, but not needed. 35 spling in and out is more than the average guy needs.

AMJ · Aug 8, 2008

TreeClimber said:
My point is not whether you want the axle or not, but rather that anybody with factory frame up front would limit the steering to well under 55* due to interference rubbing. Secondly, even with front digs and all that, you simply do not need to turn that sharp for any trails, as all the trails were made by rigs that don't have super tight steering, ergo, you can already make the 'tight' turns.

Now if you are a comp buggy, trying to make the cones, then that's a different story.

Regarding need -v- want, I've got two rigs, a YJ and a TJ. Both with V8s, both with TH400s, both with Atlas, etc.... and on my YJ, it's got a D44 up front with Warn inner and outer 30 splines and CTMs. And I've broke front shafts with 37s. So when I built my TJ, I opted for a 60, so I could get 35 splined shafts. Yeah, I could just replace the D44 shafts as they break, but since I had the opportunity, I went 60.

Yep all the trails were made by Jeeps with a short wheelbase and stock steering. Now go take a longer wheelbase rig on those same trails and see how much backing up you do :; It really just comes down to another fun thing that you can add to your rig. It's not for everyone but if I had the cash I would use them.

My next rig will most likely be running the normal junkyard 60's with 35 spline stuff or maybe Iron Jocks with stock knuckels. I now I won't run anything less then something with the same strength as a 60's because I prefer to be able to push the rig and not worry about **** falling off it.

Avanteone · Aug 11, 2008

I built mine /w a Currie Iron Jock center, the center is under $500.

cameron_garrison · Aug 12, 2008

wow thats a good price i didnt know they were that reasonable

WHITE TRASH1 · Aug 12, 2008

I'd start with a 70U rear housing, cut down the passenger side and buy a piece or DOM for the driver side. Reid inner C's and factory GM knuckles, GM spindles and hubs,Stock 35 spline inners with Yukon 35 spline outers cut down and the snap ring groove re cut and the GM hub lathed shorter to shorten how far it sticks out of the wheel. I'd also put drive slugs and 3/4 ton brakes on it but leaving it 8 lug.

Everything I listed should be easy for you to source with the network of people we both know.

erslll · Aug 13, 2008

boxboy said:
I am just saying that is the only thing I would do different and it would just be for the ground clearance.

I started with a bear Chevy high pinion King pin D60 then added 35 spline inners & outers, bobbylong joints, Dedenbear outer "C" and Detroit locker... then as it was a bear housing all the bolts nuts bearings brakes hubs spindles trunion kits...

But I built what I wanted not what I found.

Curious where you found a high pinion Chevy 60?

megatoy66 · Aug 13, 2008

erslll said:
Curious where you found a high pinion Chevy 60?

I caught that one to.

By the way, I have brand new, never used, GM dana 60 front housings, with tubes and inner C's and bearing caps............$450.00 each, sounds like a great start for your axle project.

boxboy · Aug 13, 2008

erslll said:
Curious where you found a high pinion Chevy 60?

I was told it was chevy but I didn't really care about the brand it was what I was looking for and the price was right.

Turtle Bite · Aug 13, 2008

The tentative plan is to find a chevy or dodge complete axel. Buying a housing and the knuckles, wheel hubs, seperately looks like it will be the same price as a complete frontend and more work. Hopefully I can get $100 or so out of the old shafts, carrier, gears, brakes ect and have all the needed parts for $700 or so. I like the design of the Currie centersection alot better than the Dynatrac, especially for the price. Still not worth it for me though.

My tentative plan is:

Chevy or dodge axle
Retube with .375 DOM, rotate knuckles, narrowed to 62" or so
Stock C's and Knuckles (I am sure they will be strong enough)
SRW hubs, havent decided if I will machine front hubs to 6 lug or get 8 lug hubs for the rearend
1/2 ton chevy slide on rotors, toyota calipers
Alloy USA shafts, undecided on u-joints
Summit machine or other similar drive flanges
ARB and 6.17 gears (need to research the gear strength)
Toyota pinion flange
Gusset with Surplus Center balanced 10" steering cylinder, running the tie rods to the factory tie-rod holes so I dont have to worry about steering arm stud problems.

The other option I am considering is a Super Duty axle, which has the advantage of being high pinion, and the newer ones have 35 spline stubs and hubs, and they are only 5-700 from a junkyard. My biggest worry about using one of these is that I can hardly find any information on them.

WHITE TRASH1 · Aug 13, 2008

If you want to start with a 60 front there is a chevy front at pasco auto that has been partially taken apart. One hub body and a few small items have been removed so it'd probably go cheap. Grabbing the outters off of a F-250 HD will get the rest of the parts cheap too.

erslll · Aug 13, 2008

Aren't stock Chevy tubes at least .375" wall? The other thing is if you narrow a Chevy that much and do it evenly between both sides you will end up with very little tube showing on the passenger side. Depending on your suspension this may or may not be a problem.

Turtle Bite · Aug 13, 2008

WHITE TRASH said:
If you want to start with a 60 front there is a chevy front at pasco auto that has been partially taken apart. One hub body and a few small items have been removed so it'd probably go cheap. Grabbing the outters off of a F-250 HD will get the rest of the parts cheap too.

I have to there on friday, ill take a look then. Dont think I can use the Ford ttb wheel hub as the ford 60 hubs have different bearing spacing and sit on a 5/8" shorter spindle. If the price was right I would just look for a replacement wheelhub. I dont usually say "cheap" and "Pasco Auto Wrecking" in the same sentence though.

Yeah the stock tubes are actually .5" thick, but that is way overkill with a truss. I will probably shorten it on both sides with stock axle lengths if it is possible.

WHITE TRASH1 · Aug 13, 2008

I wonder if the spindle pattern is the same... I'd heard of guys using the ford stuff to have shorter hubs.... Supposed to be the same thing as the dynatrac (?) shorty hub upgrade.