surgery

[Not Jobless]

I bet they never come apart though.

I bet they crack...

Just FYI...I lost the front end in my Jeep when a local shop at the time welded the WARN XCL kit into it...they couldn't weld either. They quickly realized the error of there ways when the liability of a legal lawsuit and the possability of them being closed down by the man was facing them.

 

[skrause]

I tell ya what...lets head to the local community college and you can run a WABO plate using the tack...tack...tack method and then we'll cut, grind and bend it and see how well it does...I guarantee it will fail.

I've made welds that look like that without letting up on the juice, do you still call that "tack...tack...tack"? :flipoff: How's this look to you? :stirpot:

Name the CC and I'll be there.

 

[dr drae]

Thanks for your concern jobless, you're a gem.

 

[Jaydog]

Thanks for your concern jobless, you're a gem.

QOTD :haha:

 

[TTF Fabrication]

The welds on some of those brackets are absolutely retarded.

Another prime example fo people worried more about how the welds look (like TIG) rather han making them structural. Individual spots welds place one on top of the other is ridiculous and should not be used for structural welds.

Individual spot welds cause excessive stress risers on each spot plus it allows slag and other impurities to collect between welds, plus it doesn't get the penetration that a proper weld would have.

But I don't know **** about welding



Otherwise it's looking sweet

i understand the point that you're trying to make, but i don't think it's going to be a problem. the only slag in a mig weld is the brown silicon that you can see sometimes rises to the surface of the weld. "stitch" welding is strong enough in situations like this in my opinion and there is not enough of a stress riser there to cause any problems. it keeps down on the HAZ which is understandable being it is an axle tube. undercut is a much more hazardous stress riser than overlapping tack welds, and i dont see any of that. LOOKIN GOOD MAN!!!!

 

[Not Jobless]

Thanks for your concern jobless, you're a gem.

Your welcome.

I just don't like seeing people have work done on their rig that I consider sub-standard for the task in which it is accomplishing. Especially when it it is something as important as welds on a diff.

But hey...Deans the man and it's your Jeep :beer:

Besides, it's the internet, if you didn't want some a-hole, **** talkers opinion who don't know the square root of jack **** then you shouldn't have posted it.

 

[dr drae]

Besides, it's the internet, if you didn't want some a-hole, **** talkers opinion who don't know the square root of jack **** then you shouldn't have posted it.

That's exactly what I wanted, and I know I can always count on you to fill that roll. :flipoff:
So just so we're discussing the same thing, you've referenced two different things, are you worried about the nickel welding ON the diff? or the bracketry welding on the axle tubes?


(and for future reference it's "you're welcome" :awesomework

 

[Not Jobless]

That's exactly what I wanted, and I know I can always count on you to fill that roll. :flipoff:
So just so we're discussing the same thing, you've referenced two different things, are you worried about the nickel welding ON the diff? or the bracketry welding on the axle tubes?


(and for future reference it's "you're welcome" :awesomework

The nickel welding on the diff looks cool

I (as in me personally) am not a fan of some of the welds on the brackets on the tube. If people are worried about too much heat while welding axles it's becasue they are not using the right process for the job so that excuse goes right out the window.

It's just my opinion and I, unlike some others that lurk, voice my opinion rather than follow the tried and true "if you have nothing nice to say then don't say it" upbringing.

 

[cisco]

I dont know crap about welding and fully suck at it so this might not mean anything, but you can make welds that look like that by pulsing the trigger on the mig and laying a puddle on top of the previous puddle before it solidifies. While not as optimal, with this technique I bet you can get decent penetration.

 

[Nuzzy]

I dont know crap about welding and fully suck at it so this might not mean anything, but you can make welds that look like that by pulsing the trigger on the mig and laying a puddle on top of the previous puddle before it solidifies. While not as optimal, with this technique I bet you can get decent penetration.

That's the tack tack tack method metioned...

 

[cisco]

I was thinking of the TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

Method

 

[Nuzzy]

I was thinking of the TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

TaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzatrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzsputsputaaaaaaaaaack

Method

Oh, that one's totally cool and will work fine :redneck: :haha:

 

[crash2]

I dont know crap about welding and fully suck at it so this might not mean anything, but you can make welds that look like that by pulsing the trigger on the mig and laying a puddle on top of the previous puddle before it solidifies. While not as optimal, with this technique I bet you can get decent penetration.

tHATS the worst way to do it--you go from heat/no heat to heat/no heat

 

[MarcW]

:kiss: nice lookin tires :flipoff:

 

[cisco]

Just trying to learn somethin here, so when you say

tHATS the worst way to do it--you go from heat/no heat to heat/no heat

Are you refering to complete cooling between between beads, or is it heat, less heat, heat. What if the bead stays hot and gooy the whole time? I realize it is going from liquid to semi-solid back to liquid whole time. Is that any differnt than putting a bead, letting it solidify, cool and then do another one?

 

[82toyomud]

Just trying to learn somethin here, so when you say Are you refering to complete cooling between between beads, or is it heat, less heat, heat. What if the bead stays hot and gooy the whole time? I realize it is going from liquid to semi-solid back to liquid whole time. Is that any differnt than putting a bead, letting it solidify, cool and then do another one?

You can pretty much apply your MET class to this situation... The less heat you put into the metal the smaller the heat effect zone, the smaller the amount of non-tempered martincite...Which is a good thing, but you get no penatration, which is bad... If you lay one bead the whole way even though the heat effect zone is greater, the chances of non-tempered martincite build up is greatly decreased, as long as the weld zone isn't quenched:awesomework:

 

[dr drae]

whoa, according to my calendar my Atlas could ship next week, man that month went by fast! :011:

 

[crash2]

Just trying to learn somethin here, so when you say Are you refering to complete cooling between between beads, or is it heat, less heat, heat. What if the bead stays hot and gooy the whole time? I realize it is going from liquid to semi-solid back to liquid whole time. Is that any differnt than putting a bead, letting it solidify, cool and then do another one?

You can do it but you will need allot of heat--thats where technique comes into play though--no need to on/off/on/off and so on

Thats another reason when you are new to welding when you weld a bracket on--start from the center since typically a fracture is going to start where there is less penetration and having that spot in the center versus an edge will be less prone to failure

 

[dr drae]

Got my beadlocks mounted today. Ran to GI Joes this week and got some airsoft pellets.

So here's something interesting, according to 'the math', 16500 airsoft pellets should weigh out to about 69.8 oz. Using the wife's kitchen scale (got some strange looks from her on that one :redneck: ) they actually weigh out to 64 oz exactly. I divided up 5 equal parts of 12 oz and have 4 oz left over. I think I'll start at the upper end of the recommended weight for 38" tires per the dynabead site (10-12 oz/tire) and see what happens.

 

[2pwrlftrs4u]

those be bad ass :awesomework: