suspension set-up?

CHOP SHOP · Mar 21, 2009

This was my first clodbuster. I built a tuber chassis for a pair of axles I got off of CL for cheap.

I didnt know anything about setup then. After doing a handful of crawlers now I would have lowered it a little and mounted the shocks on hoops to sit it a little lower.

Maybe you can get a look at my link mounts. nothing on this store bought. just hardware. I mounted the lowers to the axles Cs/yokes. And the uppers to existing holes on the axles. I ended up removing a screw under the axle and grinding it smooth, that helped it slide over **** so much better.

Once you get it dialed in and can drive it to the fullest, you will be annoyed by the "CLOD STALL" and get a 2.2!:beer:

I B RACIN · Mar 21, 2009

wheelinjp said:
does anyone run 2.2 wheels and tires on clod axles? when I redo the links I want to shorten the wheelbase a few inches and run a tall 2.2 tire with beadlocks. I need to order my link mounts for the lowers for clod axles since mine are too low right now. my rear suspension is definitely set up wrong. here is a better picture of the issue. after running it with the big moabs on a nice rockpile, the big tires are more a pain than fun so I want to try something much narrower and shorter. hopefully it wont be too rough on ground clearance. I saw somewhere that they make a 7in tall 2.4in tire too. i might need those.

Don't get discouraged with the super truck, this is what happens to a lot of people, because they can't just go buy one that works ok out of a box, it will take some tuning, but once you get it right they are a blast and take the most skill to drive, then anything else will seem easy.

Do you have rear steer yet? And do you have good servos at min 333 in-oz?
Most mount the lower links to the upper C bolt where the axle brace is, just use a longer bolt.

Most don't use clod axles with 2.2 tires the diff clearance is the reason.

IB..

I B RACIN · Mar 21, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Once you get it dialed in and can drive it to the fullest, you will be annoyed by the "CLOD STALL" and get a 2.2!:beer:

If you had it dialed in and could drive it to the fullest then 2.2 would seem lame, clod stall is a good thing you just have to learn how to make it work for you, and manage it with gearing and motor tuning and know how to drive it well.
Clod stall keeps the truck from wanting to drive under it self on steep climbs, and roll over backwards.

:beer: IB..

CHOP SHOP · Mar 21, 2009

I B RACIN said:
If you had it dialed in and could drive it to the fullest then 2.2 would seem lame, clod stall is a good thing you just have to learn how to make it work for you, and manage it with gearing and motor tuning and know how to drive it well.
Clod stall keeps the truck from wanting to drive under it self on steep climbs, and roll over backwards.

:beer: IB..

X1000000000 on the servos. spend atleast 100 ro better on a good servo

I got rid of my clod cuz there was no consistancy. It will almost climb when you need to most, then oops the front had less traction than the rear and it has now had the front slide off of whatever you were climbing.

I like the supers dont get me wrong, now I have a TXT.:beer:

wheelinjp · Mar 21, 2009

this one needs a lot of tweeking and adjusting to be right. I am weighing all my options to see where ai want to go with it. I really had my mind set on the 2.2 axial because I have alot of interest in the scaler side of the sport. this was just a good deal and rtr when I bought it. I think I need to make the adjustments you guys have suggested and see how I like it. it has been alot of fun already. we will have to see.

wheelinjp · Mar 23, 2009

ok I just did some major tweeking on the rear suspension. First I raised the upper link mount in the rear with a skull cap.Then I straightened the rear lower links and raised them to the top of the rear knuckles so the rear suspension is designed like the pic above. once it stops raining I can test it better but in the garage it did alot better. here are some crappy pics. I also resoldered the motor leads were they join together for the controller. I nstalled a deans connector with single leads and soldered the 3 leads together and insulated them with shrink tube.I havent had a chance to clean up the wiring hanging everywhere yet with some zipties. I know I am selling it, but I wanted to make it the best it can be before I sell it. BTW in the last pic the suspension is sitting higher than ride height so the links look parallel but they arent. In fact most of these pics have alot of deceptive angles to them.

smr4runner · Apr 23, 2009

I was looking thru your thread and noticed you have an alum TCS (The Crawler Store) NN Chassis. It was a specific built chassis with the upper links running parallel to the ground. Yours are tad short.

Here are pics of my NN chassis built in o6 if you want to reference off it. It was a sweet rig to comp.

http://smregal.com/rc crawler/clodcrawler.htm

wheelinjp · Apr 23, 2009

smr4runner said:
I was looking thru your thread and noticed you have an alum TCS (The Crawler Store) NN Chassis. It was a specific built chassis with the upper links running parallel to the ground. Yours are tad short.

Here are pics of my NN chassis built in o6 if you want to reference off it. It was a sweet rig to comp.

http://smregal.com/rc crawler/clodcrawler.htm

thanks for the pics. that helps alot. I havent touched the rig in a while since I bought an ax-10. I will be making new links soon and it does perform much better since I moved the lower links to the top of the inner c knuckle. I do see though how I need to lengthen the uppers and move them lower in the chassis.