Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 15, 2017

smbroady82 said:
Did you break anything in your cases or just trying to be proactive?

Proactive and I needed a little extra gearing. I'm bolting the atlas behind my toyota crawlbox so I will have a 4 speed essentially.

poolman · Jun 16, 2017

Wow, sweet zuk!!!!!

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 16, 2017

poolman said:
Wow, sweet zuk!!!!!

Thank you sir

smbroady82 · Jun 16, 2017

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Proactive and I needed a little extra gearing. I'm bolting the atlas behind my toyota crawlbox so I will have a 4 speed essentially.

Nice, did you buy an adapter or make one? I'd love to do that with mine.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 17, 2017

smbroady82 said:
Nice, did you buy an adapter or make one? I'd love to do that with mine.

I bought the adapter from advance adapters as well. I don't have access to a lathe or mill right now so making one could have proven very difficult.

smbroady82 · Jun 17, 2017

Stuntman Autoworks said:
I bought the adapter from advance adapters as well. I don't have access to a lathe or mill right now so making one could have proven very difficult.

Right on, make sure to update up once you get it going again. I'm very interested in the toy/atlas doubler. I always thought I was geared low enough with stock duals and 5.13s, but I have ran into a few climbs where I wish I had a lower option.

zukimaster · Jun 17, 2017

All you got to do Bro Dirt is stick a 4.7 gear in the back case. Very simple, cheap, and effective.

TBItoy · Jun 17, 2017

zukimaster said:
All you got to do Bro Dirt is stick a 4.7 gear in the back case. Very simple, cheap, and effective.

And a surefire recipe for busted output shafts and reduction housings

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Rokcrler · Jun 17, 2017

Re: Re: Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

TBItoy said:
And a surefire recipe for busted output shafts and reduction housings

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Not if you learn to leave the front case in high and rear in low/high... I quit busting inputs when I quit putting the range box in low and the rear in high

TBItoy · Jun 17, 2017

Re: Re: Re: Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

Rokcrler said:
Not if you learn to leave the front case in high and rear in low/high... I quit busting inputs when I quit putting the range box in low and the rear in high

I didn't say anything about inputs, but you are right, front low-rear high will break 2nd case inputs (which one should upgrade to 23 spline when putting 4.7s in the rear case)

After I started getting my diffs to hold up, I got a rear output shaft, then a front output case (aluminum case around front output bearing), then a reduction housing (not sure if the gear or case let go first).

No way I'd depend on a yota case in a V6 powered rig on 42" stickies. Atlas was a good choice!

clemsonjeep · Jun 17, 2017

Geebus at over $500 for that adapter I believe I would have gone to an automatic and the atlas and been done.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 21, 2017

Re: Re: Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

Rokcrler said:
Not if you learn to leave the front case in high and rear in low/high... I quit busting inputs when I quit putting the range box in low and the rear in high

Kind of defeats the purpose of having the range box if you cant use it in low. Might as well just have a single case.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 21, 2017

clemsonjeep said:
Geebus at over $500 for that adapter I believe I would have gone to an automatic and the atlas and been done.

Didn't want an automatic, I could say the same to you, should have just put a bigger motor in rather than turbo the 4 banger but it's not my rig. Thanks for the input though.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 21, 2017

Re: Re: Re: Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

TBItoy said:
No way I'd depend on a yota case in a V6 powered rig on 42" stickies. Atlas was a good choice!

Thank you sir, I thought it was a better choice than 4.7s on a yota case.

Stuntman Autoworks · Jun 21, 2017

smbroady82 said:
Right on, make sure to update up once you get it going again. I'm very interested in the toy/atlas doubler. I always thought I was geared low enough with stock duals and 5.13s, but I have ran into a few climbs where I wish I had a lower option.

Well I had 2 stock yota cases as well and it did fine in everything except long hill climbs. It seemed that the single low 2.28 ratio wasn't enough and it would bog down some but the double low 5.20 ratio seemed a little too low and put me between gears. So now I have the 2.28 to ride around in, 8.7 double low ratio for crawling and the 3.8 ratio for steep hill climbs. I think it's going to work well.

Rokcrler · Jun 21, 2017

Re: Re: Suzi Q Samurai buggy build

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Kind of defeats the purpose of having the range box if you cant use it in low. Might as well just have a single case.

Using the range box H/L is fine, using the range box in Low and the rear case in high is what grenades rear inputs.
I actually went back to dual stock gears for the type of wheeling i did, but the stock front 4.7 rear was great for crawling.

44BRAND · Jun 22, 2017

Sorry to derail, but this is Hardline. And I have a question that has been bugging me. With dual yota cases, stock gears in both, why would it put more stress on the rear INPUT with the crawl box in low and the rear case in high. If the crawl box is in low, the same torque is going INTO the rear case regardless of what range the rear case is in, right? If I'm overlooking something obvious, enlighten me folks. That's why I asked. I run my crawl box in low and rear in high all the time, makes it easier to shift from 4 wheel to 2 wheel between obstacles(single stick rear case). haven't broken anything in the case in 4 years. Course I also shouldn't be running a v8 and 39 reds on yota axles either, but that's a different matter. molaugh

Seriously though, looking for a good explanation on the case input. Thanks fellas.

clemsonjeep · Jun 22, 2017

The idea that it puts more stress on the rear input is simply due to the multiplication of torque by the gears in the front case. Think about it this way...

If you only had the front case...you'd still be getting the torque multiplication before sending it to the axles right? So with dual cases you're sending that same torque through the input of the second case. Since the cases are designed to be run by themselves you can only imagine that the stock inputs aren't designed to handle the torque created by running another case in front of them.

Make sense?

44BRAND · Jun 22, 2017

Of course it makes sense. But, anytime the front case is in low, you are sending that torque multiplication into the rear case, REGARDLESS of what range the rear case is in. So what makes the rear any stronger when it is in low side? Front box in low puts the same load on the rear case, no matter what range it is in. I understand that its stronger to run the rear in low and the front in high, that's not my question. What I'm saying is, if putting the front in low is too much strain on the rear case, when its in high, then it should be too much stress on the rear case in low also. But obviously dual cases work, they been around for years. I want to know if their is something in the case that makes it stronger(able to handle more torque) when it is in low range. Not sure if I'm making any sense. Been working for me though skully

clemsonjeep · Jun 23, 2017

Ahh I see. Not sure if this is right but it's how I perceive it. I think about it like pedaling a bicycle with the front on the largest sprocket and the rear on the smallest which makes it the hardest for the rider to pedal on flat ground. If that's the car when your tcase is in high range then it seems like it would put more stress on the input gear (crank on the bicycle).

Whatcha think?