That's usually where I choose to put it. Same on the key/switch lever too.
good advice
Edit : I'm a big fan of BlueSea kill switches, and you can remove the key on them :
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
switch panel w/ fuses
- Thread starter jeeptj99
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That's usually where I choose to put it. Same on the key/switch lever too.
good advice
Edit : I'm a big fan of BlueSea kill switches, and you can remove the key on them :
The Luke
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2010
- Messages
- 4,255
The power ratings on this remind me of a different question and it's on the same line as Travis's original question. What size main power and ground does everyone run?That's usually where I choose to put it. Same on the key/switch lever too.
good advice
Edit : I'm a big fan of BlueSea kill switches, and you can remove the key on them :
ridered3
Not Rigless
Previous owner of our juggy had a kill switch/lever like you mentioned and like the red one posted by @Bebop on the dash. It only controlled/killed the accessories (lights, fans, etc), but the engine could still run with the kill switch/lever in the off position. Based on this discovery we had the following conversation:
Previous Owner: "I would usually remove the kill switch key as a theft deterrent."
Me: "Well with how it's wired, the juggy would still drive but have no accessories."
Previous Owner: "Yes, but without the fan running, they wouldn't get very far."
Me: "So assuming it is not loaded onto a trailer close by, your theft deterrent was to hope to find it stranded somewhere with a blown/overheated engine?"
Previous Owner: "Well, I hadn't thought about it that way before."
Now, thanks to @Bebop the kill switch/lever is wired in correctly (kills all power without backfeeding the alternator) and is now located in between the seats.
My definition of a kill switch is one that shuts the engine off & my solution works flawlessly every time. When the buggy is running the rear of the switch (kill side) is raised and all I have to do is slide my shifter hand over and apply pressure by any means I have. I could do it upside down & blindfolded in the dark. Where its mounted in relation to me & my hand is critical though & I could see why you wouldnt like it if you didn't factor this in.
I looked & searched for a round button style kill switch, but always ran into issues. Mine had to be the right size, led backlit for night use, ip67 waterproof & dustproof, and available to the avg consumer.
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2/0 but I like overkill and everything runs through it. Winch and starter included. When I kill it, everything is off.
I hear ya, but what do you do in case you have an actual issue with a wire shorting / fire starting ?
I gtfo & use the master switch that runs the remote battery disconnect. I wouldn't want to use a master kill switch every day & shut off the PCM memory all the time, forcing it to constantly relearn nor would I want a master kill to shut the lights off when all I needed was the engine off.
Imho, there's an emergency engine off switch need (accessible by driver) & then there's an emergency master system switch need (accessible from outside).
I always run an ignition switch to turn the engine off properly. but you were talking about emergency situation.
GTFO and watching my rig burn because of poor electrical planing or not having a proper circuit interruption is NOT an option for me. Good on you for running a master disconnect.
Basically the red switch you're talking about is an ignition switch, except it/s red and next to your shifter. It's not a kill switch IMO
All PCMs don't need a relearn, but if yours do, you can still wire a permanent well protected fused feed for this purpose.
GTFO and watching my rig burn because of poor electrical planing or not having a proper circuit interruption is NOT an option for me. Good on you for running a master disconnect.
Basically the red switch you're talking about is an ignition switch, except it/s red and next to your shifter. It's not a kill switch IMO
All PCMs don't need a relearn, but if yours do, you can still wire a permanent well protected fused feed for this purpose.
My vocabulary probably ruined that for everyone, my bad. I see an ignition switch as a drivers primary kill because of a near catastrophic accident I had at Windrock one day......
I was in rattlerock & had gotten in my buggy with the intention of backing it up a little to make room for someone else to exit left. I had a helmet on, but didn't strap in because...... Well, my accelerator pedal broke from its mount & magically wedged perfectly behind my brake pedal, so perfectly that as the brake was applied so was the throttle, and the buggy started gassing out in reverse. My brain said apply more brake cause you want to stop while I'm fumbling for the ignition toggle switch covered by my lap belt, all while bouncing in reverse & my vision unable to focus on anything. Friends said I leaped in the air backwards & I finally got it shut down. Shaking.....& wondering how tf I came out of that unharmed I knew I needed a solution and I knew the toggle wasnt it.
My ignition kill is positioned where my hand naturally lays when my arms are at rest so there's no reaching for it & operated by muscle memory. My master kill (electical short/fire) is positioned rear/outside cause getting out should be #1.
PS: using a remote battery disconnect, my switch could also control it, thus becoming the master kill switch as well. But for me I find it useful to keep it seperate. In the end...... I like to have a stand alone engine kill function that can be operated in the dark with a slap motion. The toggle or button is subpar.
I was in rattlerock & had gotten in my buggy with the intention of backing it up a little to make room for someone else to exit left. I had a helmet on, but didn't strap in because...... Well, my accelerator pedal broke from its mount & magically wedged perfectly behind my brake pedal, so perfectly that as the brake was applied so was the throttle, and the buggy started gassing out in reverse. My brain said apply more brake cause you want to stop while I'm fumbling for the ignition toggle switch covered by my lap belt, all while bouncing in reverse & my vision unable to focus on anything. Friends said I leaped in the air backwards & I finally got it shut down. Shaking.....& wondering how tf I came out of that unharmed I knew I needed a solution and I knew the toggle wasnt it.
My ignition kill is positioned where my hand naturally lays when my arms are at rest so there's no reaching for it & operated by muscle memory. My master kill (electical short/fire) is positioned rear/outside cause getting out should be #1.
PS: using a remote battery disconnect, my switch could also control it, thus becoming the master kill switch as well. But for me I find it useful to keep it seperate. In the end...... I like to have a stand alone engine kill function that can be operated in the dark with a slap motion. The toggle or button is subpar.
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SkinnyPedalRacing
Well-Known Member
These are nice and I have one I plan on using. Need one outside of Black Friday, happy to help. MSR makes a nice led light up relay as well.
