sleepsontoilet
Well-Known Member
So much want!
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
SXOR single seater build
- Thread starter hokie_yj
- Start date
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Thanks man!
Someone asked about the driveshaft parts on another board so I'll post the info here too.
They are 1.625" - 10 spline stuff sold by Neapco. I believe they're sold as PTO shaft. I found them a few places online, but I got them through my local Fleet Pride and they beat everyone online.
The slip spline shaft is 28" overall with about 2" of smooth shaft on the end. I originally bought two, but ended up cutting them in half. The smooth part of the shaft is 1.375" o.d. So to mate it to the yoke I put it inside a piece of 1.75" x .188 DOM and the put that inside a piece of 2" x .120 DOM. It took a little grinding and a press, but it all fit together good.
The coupler is 2" o.d. I used 2.5" x .250 tubing, probably way overkill. And the yoke on that end also has a short piece of 2" x .120 tubing slipped inside the 2.5"
Here's the part #s:
Shaft-Neapco #72-2231 or possibly 2231-3
Coupler-Neapco #53-2415
Yokes-Spicer #3-28-777
Someone asked about the driveshaft parts on another board so I'll post the info here too.
They are 1.625" - 10 spline stuff sold by Neapco. I believe they're sold as PTO shaft. I found them a few places online, but I got them through my local Fleet Pride and they beat everyone online.
The slip spline shaft is 28" overall with about 2" of smooth shaft on the end. I originally bought two, but ended up cutting them in half. The smooth part of the shaft is 1.375" o.d. So to mate it to the yoke I put it inside a piece of 1.75" x .188 DOM and the put that inside a piece of 2" x .120 DOM. It took a little grinding and a press, but it all fit together good.
The coupler is 2" o.d. I used 2.5" x .250 tubing, probably way overkill. And the yoke on that end also has a short piece of 2" x .120 tubing slipped inside the 2.5"
Here's the part #s:
Shaft-Neapco #72-2231 or possibly 2231-3
Coupler-Neapco #53-2415
Yokes-Spicer #3-28-777
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Thanks! It is very close. I have a remote filter setup on the way to take care of that.
kmcminn
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I have a remote filter setup I like it. Keeps the filter out the driveshafts way on mine. Buy the nice billet ones they won't bust like the cheaper cast aluminum ones. Trust me I learned the hard way. Love the build.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Appreciate it man!
bgredjeep
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Make sure you cycle that suspension every way you can now that you have the shafts. I've seen a couple builds lately that ended up with clearance issues once they got the buggy out of the shop.
Your rig is looking bad ass.
Your rig is looking bad ass.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Thanks man! I am going to cycle it every way I can and cross my fingers.
GONOVRIT
Well-Known Member
Done yet?
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
No. 
I haven't laid a finger on it since the last update on here. I got burnt out working on it. It felt like nothing was going right. I'll get back on it eventually, but right now is shutdown season at work. I'm on night 18 straight of 12+ hrs.
I haven't laid a finger on it since the last update on here. I got burnt out working on it. It felt like nothing was going right. I'll get back on it eventually, but right now is shutdown season at work. I'm on night 18 straight of 12+ hrs.
Rockwells607
Well-Known Member
Where and what is that autometer gauge? I like it and would be interested in one for my new buggy: edit, I found em online after scrolling through back pages . Looks great I'm curious now as to how well you like it , they don't em away!
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
It's a Pro Comp Pro Dash. I "think" part #6011. I bought it from an online vendor, but I can't remember exactly where. I haven't actually powered it up yet, but it seems like it will be pretty cool. It comes with plug and play senders for oil and fuel pressure and oil and water temperature. I plan to use the oil temp. as a trans. Temp.
jeeptj99
Well-Known Member
this thing makes me want to build a single seater.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping to get back to working on this thing next week.
I've been doing a lot of looking at things and thinking. The angle on the rear driveshaft is really bugging me. I'm thinking about moving the rear axle back 3-4" making the wheelbase roughly 108". I know it won't make a huge difference, but it will help some with the driveshaft angle.
It seems like it will be as simple as just building new links or ordering some 7075 links from WOD, and moving the shock mounts on the chassis. I'll have to do some measuring to see if I'll have enough travel in the driveshaft for it to work.
Just looking for some opinions and input on this before I decide whether or not to do it. So what do you guys think?
I've been doing a lot of looking at things and thinking. The angle on the rear driveshaft is really bugging me. I'm thinking about moving the rear axle back 3-4" making the wheelbase roughly 108". I know it won't make a huge difference, but it will help some with the driveshaft angle.
It seems like it will be as simple as just building new links or ordering some 7075 links from WOD, and moving the shock mounts on the chassis. I'll have to do some measuring to see if I'll have enough travel in the driveshaft for it to work.
Just looking for some opinions and input on this before I decide whether or not to do it. So what do you guys think?
wizzo
Well-Known Member
Looking at the rear DS angle I would want to do something if possible. Can you roll the rear axle back to where you are thinking and see how much it does to the DS angle before you commit? It looks like your shock mounts on the chassis would be pretty easy to relocate.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'll try to do that this weekend.
Blase
Well-Known Member
With the remote filter on the way can you not move the pillar block closer to the motor and improve the DS angle? 108" WB is only going to help IMO. I might look at doing both.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
No, I can't really move the carrier bearing any closer. Right now it's only about 1/2" from the shift linkage on the transmission. I really wish I could.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
When I got home from work tonight I took a few measurements and dusted off the old right angle trig. Right now the horizontal angle at the pinion is 21*. If I move the axle back 4" it should bring it down to 18*, 5" would be 17.25*, and 6" would be 16.66*.
hokie_yj
Well-Known Member
Bringing this thread back from the dead. It's been almost a year since I touched this thing last. Honestly I just got burnt out and lost my motivation to work on it. I recently picked up another rig to get me back on the trail since it's been almost 4 years since I last wheeled. Getting the new rig ready to go has got me motivated again to finish this thing.
A few months back I ordered all new 7075 links from WOD. I had the rears made 7.25" longer to move the axle back to help with the driveshaft angle. It's going to require building a longer rear driveshaft, but the one I already had built will also fit the front so I'll have a spare now. And I'll just go ahead build two for the rear and have a spare for both.
This picture shows a before and after of the driveshaft angle.
Moving the axle back also meant I had to build new upper shock mounts, but I had been planning to redo/reinforce them anyway because I've always heard that mounts for ORIs need to be beefier than mounts for air shocks/coilovers due to them also acting as the bumpstops. Over the last couple days before work I got one rear mount done. Still have the other side to do, and I'm also going redo the front upper mounts as well.
A few months back I ordered all new 7075 links from WOD. I had the rears made 7.25" longer to move the axle back to help with the driveshaft angle. It's going to require building a longer rear driveshaft, but the one I already had built will also fit the front so I'll have a spare now. And I'll just go ahead build two for the rear and have a spare for both.
This picture shows a before and after of the driveshaft angle.
Moving the axle back also meant I had to build new upper shock mounts, but I had been planning to redo/reinforce them anyway because I've always heard that mounts for ORIs need to be beefier than mounts for air shocks/coilovers due to them also acting as the bumpstops. Over the last couple days before work I got one rear mount done. Still have the other side to do, and I'm also going redo the front upper mounts as well.
