The back handed yj

the_white_shadow · Dec 18, 2017

Waaaaaaayyyyyyyy too long for the lowers. Try to keep them around 40" or they will bend.

417chevy · Dec 18, 2017

Got lowers to 40 and uppers at 30
A.S is 94%
Roll center 30in
Roll axis angle -3
Sounds good?

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TBItoy · Dec 18, 2017

I'd run it. Less AS would be better all around in theory IMO.

But unless you put a dropped subframe/lower link mount or super low overall ride height it may be hard to accomplish.

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5BrothersFabrication · Dec 18, 2017

Heck with that Jeep, what's the story on that open wheel in the background???

Also, may be part of your budget problem. When I raced, wheeled, and had a hot rod truck, I was BROKE ALL THE TIME. :****:

417chevy · Dec 18, 2017

5BrothersFabrication said:
Heck with that Jeep, what's the story on that open wheel in the background???

Also, may be part of your budget problem. When I raced, wheeled, and had a hot rod truck, I was BROKE ALL THE TIME. :****:

Yeah could be
its a Midwest mod also have a pure stock project both getting motors built
Had a 70 Monte hotrod project but getting rid of it too redo links on this

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417chevy · Dec 18, 2017

TBItoy said:
I'"d run it. Less AS would be better all around in theory IMO.

But unless you put a dropped subframe/lower link mount or super low overall ride height it may be hard to accomplish.

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Yeah I'm trying to keep ride hight low frame height is set at 24in but that should be full bump so should end up around 26-28

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mac5005 · Dec 18, 2017

Get AS around 70%, make sure it doesn'"t go above about 80% in droop.

Shoot for upper links to be around 67-72% of lower link length, this will help the AS to not increase dramatically in droop. This is important so the rear doesn'"t hop on big climbs.

Next is to get pinion angle change less that 6 degrees total change.

Get the AS in the front around 40% with no more than 15% increase in droop.

Ideally get the roll axis angle as flat as possible, and the roll center heights as close as possible to the cam centerline, as close as practical.

Also it'"s better to have the rear roll center lower than the front, so if you are playing at speed and too fast into a curve, it pics a front tire up off the ground before the rear, this causes understeer.

If the rear is higher than front and you blow throw a corner or curve, and it lifts the rear first you will have instant massive oversteer = bad.

Try to get the shocks mounted with at least 6" - 7" of uptravel at ride height.

You want the correct springs so that you have the springs preloaded 2". If it takes more than 2" of preload to get your ride height, the springs are too soft. Less than 2" of preload and the springs are too stiff.

Preload is how far the top nut is adjusted down compressing the springs, with the shock fully extended. At zero preload, the top nut would just touch the top of the spring with no free play, with shock fully extended. Again shoot for 2" of preload, so once the top nut touches the springs, keep threading downward to compress springs another 2".

417chevy · Dec 19, 2017

mac5005 said:
Get AS around 70%, make sure it doesn€š€žt go above about 80% in droop.

Shoot for upper links to be around 67-72% of lower link length, this will help the AS to not increase dramatically in droop. This is important so the rear doesn€š€žt hop on big climbs.

Next is to get pinion angle change less that 6 degrees total change.

Get the AS in the front around 40% with no more than 15% increase in droop.

Ideally get the roll axis angle as flat as possible, and the roll center heights as close as possible to the cam centerline, as close as practical.

Also it€š€žs better to have the rear roll center lower than the front, so if you are playing at speed and too fast into a curve, it pics a front tire up off the ground before the rear, this causes understeer.

If the rear is higher than front and you blow throw a corner or curve, and it lifts the rear first you will have instant massive oversteer = bad.

Try to get the shocks mounted with at least 6€ - 7€ of uptravel at ride height.

You want the correct springs so that you have the springs preloaded 2€. If it takes more than 2€ of preload to get your ride height, the springs are too soft. Less than 2€ of preload and the springs are too stiff.

Preload is how far the top nut is adjusted down compressing the springs, with the shock fully extended. At zero preload, the top nut would just touch the top of the spring with no free play, with shock fully extended. Again shoot for 2€ of preload, so once the top nut touches the springs, keep threading downward to compress springs another 2€.

I was gonna make mounting brackets to adjust from AS 60-80-100

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the_white_shadow · Dec 19, 2017

Getting perfect numbers is ideal, but most of the time not practical due to a number of issues. Your working with a stock frame which will cause you to work with what you have. The link mounts can only go in so many places.

mac5005 · Dec 19, 2017

417chevy said:
I was gonna make mounting brackets to adjust from AS 60-80-100

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80 and 100 at ride height will likely be too much when you figure it increasing in droop.

Too much AS in droop will cause rear hop on more vertical style climbs with decent traction.