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The KRACKEN IFS/IRS buggy build

Re: Re: Re: The KRACKEN IFS/IRS buggy build

TBItoy said:
How would a extra telescoping arm do anything on a A arm?
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There was talk about going to a trailing arm setup to give a "ramp" between the belly and tire.

If he wanted to get the same ramp design but continue to run an SLA setup, telescoping would work & not constrain the system.
 
Re: Re: Re: The KRACKEN IFS/IRS buggy build

paradisepwoffrd said:
There was talk about going to a trailing arm setup to give a "ramp" between the belly and tire.

If he wanted to get the same ramp design but continue to run an SLA setup, telescoping would work & not constrain the system.
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Ah! Gotcha, I though you were talking about using the arm to control the anti-squat /dive
 
Scott F. said:
Very cool build. I like the styling and the different build approach. I see you already answered one of the questions I had regarding where you sourced the half shafts from. Seems like if any could make ones that would last it would be RCV.

How are the portal boxes holding up to the 43s? Are they the 10k or 12k ones? Straight or helical gears?
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I was told they are nearly indestructible unless you run them out of oil.....Then they don't last half a mile lol. For me haven't even seen the slightest issue with them. thumb.gif
I got the 12K 32 spline version. I think the 10K are 30 spline best I remember.

paradisepwoffrd said:
Only videos I've seen are from DTOR. I know you've done some tuning since, and might have helped alot. Looked like the anti-dive/squat on both ends were pretty low. That's why the front dives when you tap the brakes and you almost went over backwards when stabbing the brakes in the wheelstand.

You definitely want to keep it under 100% or the issue with tire undercutting will get worse. A trailing/L-shaped arm might help with both issues.

If you didn't want to redesign your susp, you could simply add a "telescoping slider" from the belly to lower arm. Since it would telescope, it wouldn't affect geometry.
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It was just super soft at DTOR. I had major computer issues and didn't even get it running till the day before after the fire, was starting to think i wasn't going to make it. I've changed the valving some and raised the ride height 2". Made a world of difference.
The wheelstand I'm not sure what caused that, We went down to rush a few weeks back and climbed the big race hills at almost a crawl and then with speed. It didn't even feel like it wanted to go over backwards and some of those hills are near vertical.
 
Go to a RZR XP rear trailing arm style then instead of a C1 style, less CV plunge, but more tire scrub, which is a problem ish in whoops, shouldn't be a problem for what you do. That will greatly increase your chances of controlling that wrap. Much like this guy:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1896162-13m-eaton-nitro-rcv-nwf-novak-4400-ifs-irs-build.html
You have substantial torque at the hub trying to rip those arms off. This would let you leave the diff in the same place, CV's same, just add a trailing arm and radius rods. might be creative on the upper radius rod and make it incredibly beefy to mount the shock to. Essentially replace your rear a arms with large radius rods (no front to back control, just in and out control) Would need a wobble stopper or a dip in it to keep the shock force from rolling it over.
Cool rig, I love it.

Edit: I didn't read page 2 before replying, I'm seeing others are suggesting this already. Either way, very cool
 
blacksheep10 said:
Go to a RZR XP rear trailing arm style then instead of a C1 style, less CV plunge, but more tire scrub, which is a problem ish in whoops, shouldn't be a problem for what you do. That will greatly increase your chances of controlling that wrap. Much like this guy:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1896162-13m-eaton-nitro-rcv-nwf-novak-4400-ifs-irs-build.html
You have substantial torque at the hub trying to rip those arms off. This would let you leave the diff in the same place, CV's same, just add a trailing arm and radius rods. might be creative on the upper radius rod and make it incredibly beefy to mount the shock to. Essentially replace your rear a arms with large radius rods (no front to back control, just in and out control) Would need a wobble stopper or a dip in it to keep the shock force from rolling it over.
Cool rig, I love it.

Edit: I didn't read page 2 before replying, I'm seeing others are suggesting this already. Either way, very cool
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That's precisely what I've been looking at is the rzr style trailing arm. I don't think any other would be strong enough rock bouncing. Somethings gonna have to Help control the toe with big tires.

http://youtu.be/Yt472ejypnM

I forgot about the pump jack bounty hill. There's in car view and a water bottle on the dash I forgot to move. It hangs in there for a long time before it fell in the floor lol
Rear arms bent real bad here you can see the driver rear tire start to toe out in the vid. One of the clamps came loose and only half the engine was going into the turbo. Motor starts to bog down, you can hear it in the vid. ::)
 
To my untrained eye it looks like the upper rear arm is being compressed as weight on the rear increases. Basically the lower balljoint is the fulcrum and the top of the wheel pushes inward. Are the mounting points for the uppers and lowers the same distance apart at the frame and wheel ends? If so maybe some connecting rods with heims midway up the arms spanning from the uppers to lowers would help keep the uppers straight. :dunno:
 
Cut Boggers!!!!
23773450710_585c55ee1a_b.jpg
 
xjpaddler said:
Dean what kinda bumpsteer #ss do you have up front???
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Wheels straight. Very little. Wheels turned there some. I forget the measurements now. It's under .375"

Beerj said:
To my untrained eye it looks like the upper rear arm is being compressed as weight on the rear increases. Basically the lower balljoint is the fulcrum and the top of the wheel pushes inward. Are the mounting points for the uppers and lowers the same distance apart at the frame and wheel ends? If so maybe some connecting rods with heims midway up the arms spanning from the uppers to lowers would help keep the uppers straight. :dunno:
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They bend to the rear of the buggy. Mainly changes the caster witch does change the camber. But they don't bend to change camber initially. If that makes since. Really wish I had the bent parts or the pics of em.

Then cut boggers are super sweet. Can't wait to try em out this weekend lol
 
Cole said:
300k won't even come close
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That is like a Trophy truck or even beyond. I can't relate to that at all. Although a spectacular machine.

What I can appreciate is Dean coming all the way to my local park today and giving it a go on the hill. Badass buggy and I can't stress enough how much I appreciate all the work that goes into this build, and any body else who puts in the hours wrenching and driving all across the country.

Chose not to bug you today, but the girlfriend and I snapped a couple pics and ended up passing right in front of you in a white lifted Super Duty in the creek as I was leaving and gave you a wave.

It looks absolutely nasty with those cut boggers and wheels. >:D




 
kmcminn said:
It will be interesting to see if the ifs/irs does good. Seems like the solid fronts have been doing pretty good.
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The lasernut guys will have to use their brains for sure. Fast and light is not usually strong. I don't think they could slam that armada car into the Dtor concrete slabs like Dean did without ripping the front end apart
 

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