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To auto or not to auto

So what application do I wanna use for a flex plate (4.3) or will a stock one work? 700r4/th350 the same flex plate?
 
A gm master tech asking such a simple question? Kids these days, I bet you asked this question on Facebook too didn't you? :flipoff:


You can use which ever flex plate you like, 153 or 168. 168 is probably stock, I'd simply use which ever size you have now on the flywheel since the starter matches that size ring gear.
 
All 4.3L are externally balanced? I would consider the same converter used with the mini '86+ Blazer and other GMs with 4.3 (or 350) and 700R4.

regular Napa flexplate BK 6005062 (Pioneer FRA-159) $30 168 teeth

or

Heavyduty BK 6005153 (Pioneer FA101HD) $86 (Ouch!) 168 teeth

The converter bolt up pattern changed slightly but TH350 never came with a lockup and the transmissions became "metric" around that time.
 
A gm master tech asking such a simple question? Kids these days, I bet you asked this question on Facebook too didn't you? :flipoff:


You can use which ever flex plate you like, 153 or 168. 168 is probably stock, I'd simply use which ever size you have now on the flywheel since the starter matches that size ring gear.

The flywheel thats in there now should be 168 tooth but that was like 8 years ago.

And for the record--I aint no transmission guy :fawkdancesmiley:
 
Hey, he don't need to hear from a Toyota guy on GM stuff:fawkdancesmiley:. Like you know anything anyways.:flipoff::D

:redneck: I've been a chevy guy a lot longer than a yotard. Hell my first yota had a 350.


Your flex plate should have oval holes to accommodate both converter patterns.
 
:redneck: I've been a chevy guy a lot longer than a yotard. Hell my first yota had a 350.


Your flex plate should have oval holes to accommodate both converter patterns.

And your reading skillz suck :flipoff:

I am needing a plate hence why I am asking :redneck:
 
I'll admit I didn't read all the replies...I went from the NV4500 to a C4 in the Jeep and couldn't be happier, my left knee is happier as well not having to work that clutch all the time.

I'm remedying an issue right now with my C4 which will keep it nearly 100% full all the time by using a sump located just above the tranny. Starving the auto for fluid when sitting vertical on an obstacle is the only drawback to an auto.

I kept my Atlas 4.3:1 t-Case and 6:50:1 R&P with the Auto. The Jeep will still do 65+mph but it's pretty high up there in the RPM's with the gearing, but crawling is bad ass with the Auto and low gears.

I went with the full manual reverse valve body and Art Carr (other brand name) shifter

Even living in Phoenix and wheelin this past summer in 110+ degree temps the tranny never saw more than 180 degrees in the pan.

No regrets with going the Auto route :beer:
 
Guages, lol. Meant to install in my last buggy but never did. 10 years wheeling with no guages, top dat. :D Yea I know. :fawkdancesmiley:
 
Guages, lol. Meant to install in my last buggy but never did. 10 years wheeling with no guages, top dat. :D Yea I know. :fawkdancesmiley:

I am a sweeper--always looking over the guages,lol

So another thing is all new gauges and going to build a pod where my cluster is (thinking autometer ulta lites)
 
I am a sweeper--always looking over the guages,lol

So another thing is all new gauges and going to build a pod where my cluster is (thinking autometer ulta lites)

My AutoMeters
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