whatthe?
Well-Known Member
Air, fuel, spark. Air is easy and it sound like you've checked spark. What's your fuel pressure? It's cheap and easy to check. Check for codes, they should at least point you in some direction.
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Tow rig problems
- Thread starter chance
- Start date
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
I do not think you have a pump problem, as it sounds like you have lost spark, at least at the plugs...Check for spark at the coil, if still no spark...a quick and dirty test is using a test light on the white wire of the coil, it should be powered up with key on, crank the engine-->if the test light flashes brightly, then likely you have a bad coil. If not, then pop the distributor cap back off, and check to be sure the green and white wires coming from the pickup coil to the module are not broken somewhere. IF you have a DVOM, at this point you can test to see if it is producing the A/C voltage the module needs to see in order to make spark. With the + and - leads of the DVOM connected to the two wires coming from the pickup coil, and the DVOM set to a/c volts (if not an auto detecting meter, set it to as close to 1 volt a/c as possible)--->with the engine cranking, you should see somewhere in the neighborhood of .4 to .5V a/c; If not then the pickup coil is bad.
It's really a pretty simple system to test. :awesomework:
Last edited:
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
I saw seen people do this technique wrong and replace parts willy nilly. Follow techkev's advice and you should be good :awesomework:
Yes you can test with a spark plug right out of the coil. But also check if u have power going to the coil with a test light also like zukkev said
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Yes...
Yup, make sure the test light lights up on both wires, the pink (red) is the power supply to coil and the white is the signal wire from the pickup coil. There should be power on both key on engine off, with a bright flash on the white wire while cranking.
Personally I like to use a phillips screwdriver with a good plastic handle, and hold the shaft approx 1/4" from a good ground...BUT away from any fuel source!
I noticed after I had replaced the coil, that the wires (pink and white wires) from the ignition module (which is new) had some spots where there was exposed bare wire. So I cut out the old ones and spliced in new ones w/ connectors hoping this would solve my problem. Still no dice. I do not have a test light so I was not able to see if they are functioning properly. I also put a spark plug in the coil plug wire to see if there was spark and still did not see any.
Last edited:
Is that the unit that sits underneath the cap and rotor?
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Yes...
X2. Now to replace it u have to pull the dizzy then nock the pin out that hold the gear on the end of the dizzy. Then the shaft should remove from the housen and there will be a clip that hold the pickup coil. But before u do this get a test light. If u need i could leand u one
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
BEFORE you take the time to do the pickup coil, make sure the magnet on the star wheel doesn't have a bunch of cracks in it. If it's cracked, just buy a replacement distributor. It should come with a new pickup coil, and magnet/star wheel, especially if you buy new and not reman...
Also, if you do replace the pickup coil, and when you remove the roll pin, make sure you line up the dot above the roll pin with the rotor contact...the gear can be reversed which will throw off the timing a tad....
Also, if you do replace the pickup coil, and when you remove the roll pin, make sure you line up the dot above the roll pin with the rotor contact...the gear can be reversed which will throw off the timing a tad....
:awesomework: little better at explaining thing than i am. x2 on what he said dont listen to me :haha:
well that could be the problem. if you guys have a used one sitting around maybe just throw it in an see if that works. but a test light will also tell
