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Toyota not getting fuel... what now?

What kinda of drugs did you guys do this morning?????


Lets see one person, pulling a bed my himself or a gas tank....... hmmmmmm lets think a huge mass of sheet metal that is the size of like 6 people vs. a 15gallon gas tank. . .. . . I'd go the gas tank throw a tranny jack under it and lower it down


Seriously whoever said 1man can pull a bed by himself:haha: is retarted!!!:looser: The only way you could do that is with a vehicle lift or a cherry picker with bed attachments:eeek: As far as I knew people were still born with only 2 arms still not like 8:;

Counldnt resist sorry guys:fawkdancesmiley: :fawkdancesmiley:

Anyways Dalton Let me know if you need any help bro I'm in duvall from twelve and on today:awesomework: :beer:
 
lining up all those fawking bolts with gas in the tank is a bitch though. just cut a hole through your bed. then you dont have to do ****.:flipoff:
 
Pulling the bed by yourself is easy! Pull the bolts then rock one side up onto the tire. Go to the other side and repeat. lay down a piece of cardboard/carpet whatever you prefer (if you care about the finish on the tailgate) behind the truck. Now climb between the bed and cab and lift and push the bed off the tires onto the padding. Simple as anything, Ive done it probably 15-20 times since high school.

Don't doubt what can be done till you've tried it yourself... :;


And the tank isnt too bad to put back in once you have it out. If you replace a bolt on each end with a 8mm stud from a hub you can simply slide the tank onto the studs and put a nut on it to hold it in place to get the rest of the bolts in there.
 
Pulling the bed by yourself is easy! Pull the bolts then rock one side up onto the tire. Go to the other side and repeat. lay down a piece of cardboard/carpet whatever you prefer (if you care about the finish on the tailgate) behind the truck. Now climb between the bed and cab and lift and push the bed off the tires onto the padding. Simple as anything, Ive done it probably 15-20 times since high school.

Don't doubt what can be done till you've tried it yourself... :;


And the tank isnt too bad to put back in once you have it out. If you replace a bolt on each end with a 8mm stud from a hub you can simply slide the tank onto the studs and put a nut on it to hold it in place to get the rest of the bolts in there.

Dude I have to work on my truck by myself all the time I know what can be done with one person and what can't believe me!!!!

But I know also what is easier to do and what isn't. . . dropping a tank versus pulling a bed is ten times easier:awesomework: :awesomework: :awesomework:
 
Turning the tank sideways and mounting it behind the axle is the easiest.... I can pull the pump and pickup in a whopping minute flat. Its exposed due to the bed floor being cut out... :redneck:
 
So I tried changing the fuel filter and that made no difference. I also checked to see if I could find anything unplugged under the hood. I checked all fuses. I tried putting a jumper wire in the diagnostic port to make the fuel pump run. Nothing's changed... once today my truck fired up and worked fine (after pulling the ECM fuse and putting it back in) but then it didn't work anymore and I even tried repeating the same thing over again.

I don't have all my tools here in Seattle (they're in Duvall) so I can't check a whole lot more right now. I've gotta either get the truck towed to Duvall or get a ride out there to pick up my tools.

So far here's the list I've gathered of **** to check:
-fuel filter (just changed today)
-AFM
-fuel pressure
-fuel pump (and/or pickup screen)
-spark plugs
-coil or coil wire
-air leak in fuel system
-TPS
-MAFS

The weird thing is that the truck doesn't backfire and it starts/idles just like normal. Only when it starts to rev does it sputter (yet still doesn't back fire).
 
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Dude I have to work on my truck by myself all the time I know what can be done with one person and what can't believe me!!!!

But I know also what is easier to do and what isn't. . . dropping a tank versus pulling a bed is ten times easier:awesomework: :awesomework: :awesomework:

DOOD, You are a young energetic kid who hasnt broken his body as much as us old dogs. We are lazy and will work smart. Not stupid.

Some day you will reflect and say ****, That old guy was right..You may have done this already in yer life.
 
Ok so i think that I have narrowed down the problem. It's something related to the Throttle Position Sensor. When the sensor is plugged in, the truck does the sputtering thing. But when the sensor is unplugged, the truck runs and revs just fine. Thus, I believe it has something to do with the TPS. So, I'm trying to diagnos and adjust the TPS according to the Toyota FSM, but I'm having one little issue. In the FSM, it says, "apply vaccum to the throttle opener, then use an ohmmeter to adjust the TPS". My issue is, what the heck is the throttle opener and how the heck do I apply vaccum to it? In the manual there is a picture of the throttle opener but my truck doesn't have the part that is pictured... any ideas? Could I adjust it with the truck running (but with the sensor not hooked up)? Basically to adjust the sensor you apply vaccum and then turn the TPS until the ohmmeter reads a certain amount.
 
DOOD, You are a young energetic kid who hasnt broken his body as much as us old dogs. We are lazy and will work smart. Not stupid.

Some day you will reflect and say ****, That old guy was right..You may have done this already in yer life.


You would have been right about this about 3 yrs ago but since then I have had 4 screws put in my left leg and 2 pins and my right ankle along with major degenerative back syndrom! So i'm a 20yrs old trapped in a 50yr old body according to my doctor, since I already have heart problems to!:booo:

So I'm not as energectic as you think :awesomework:
 
Ok so i think that I have narrowed down the problem. It's something related to the Throttle Position Sensor. When the sensor is plugged in, the truck does the sputtering thing. But when the sensor is unplugged, the truck runs and revs just fine. Thus, I believe it has something to do with the TPS. So, I'm trying to diagnos and adjust the TPS according to the Toyota FSM, but I'm having one little issue. In the FSM, it says, "apply vaccum to the throttle opener, then use an ohmmeter to adjust the TPS". My issue is, what the heck is the throttle opener and how the heck do I apply vaccum to it? In the manual there is a picture of the throttle opener but my truck doesn't have the part that is pictured... any ideas? Could I adjust it with the truck running (but with the sensor not hooked up)? Basically to adjust the sensor you apply vaccum and then turn the TPS until the ohmmeter reads a certain amount.

Most likely, due to its intermittance of failure/sputtering, it's an electrical glitch within the sensor itself, and no adjustment will cure the symptom; try and find a good used one, or price a new one......oh, and the throttle opener if yours is missing....try pick-a-part, or someplace like that....
 
I got to this a little too late... I have seen a Toyota TPS do this very thing. Ummm, just put a thread in the wanted section for a used (hopefully good) one. People are practically giving away complete 3.0's!
 
Ok so i think that I have narrowed down the problem. It's something related to the Throttle Position Sensor. When the sensor is plugged in, the truck does the sputtering thing. But when the sensor is unplugged, the truck runs and revs just fine. Thus, I believe it has something to do with the TPS. So, I'm trying to diagnos and adjust the TPS according to the Toyota FSM, but I'm having one little issue. In the FSM, it says, "apply vaccum to the throttle opener, then use an ohmmeter to adjust the TPS". My issue is, what the heck is the throttle opener and how the heck do I apply vaccum to it? In the manual there is a picture of the throttle opener but my truck doesn't have the part that is pictured... any ideas? Could I adjust it with the truck running (but with the sensor not hooked up)? Basically to adjust the sensor you apply vaccum and then turn the TPS until the ohmmeter reads a certain amount.
Your instructions sound wrong. There should be a couple pins that close circuit to tell the computer the throttle is closed. You put a feeler guage of some size in the throttle stop and adjust until it just makes continuance. But from the sounds of it what you need to do first is check how smooth the ramp is on the part that tells how far the throttle is opened, I bet that's screwed up and you'll have to replace it.
 
Yep, turns out it was the Throttle Position Sensor. I got another one from a buddy and now my truck runs just fine. Thanks to everyone who posted and tried to help.
 

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