Toyota Solid Axle Vented Brake Upgrade

[CHOP SHOP]

Is there more surface area on the new vented rotors?

Vented rotors just keep ya from warping the stock skinny rotors when daily driving.

How do the vented rotors help at all for any kinda low speed/low heat use like wheeling?

 

[PaulSac]

Is there more surface area on the new vented rotors?

Vented rotors just keep ya from warping the stock skinny rotors when daily driving.

How do the vented rotors help at all for any kinda low speed/low heat use like wheeling?

I figured the 4 large piston calipers would be what helps.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I figured the 4 large piston calipers would be what helps.

Except on a toyota those 4 pistons (regardless of size) always have al least 1 or 2 pistons froze up making the brakes drag. Brakes drag = solid rotor warps.




Toyota brakes suck **** no matter what ya do. 4 piston brakes belong on sports cars, not in the mud and woods.

I wish I could bolt a GM SINGLE piston caliper on my toyota front.

 

[crash2]

Reduced heat is reduced heat--no matter where you are driving.

Anything slotted/drilled is silly on a wheeler though.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I'm a better brake fan boy. I don't own anything with stock brakes. Both of my 2x's have large dual diaphragm boosters and 15/16" masters with braided lines. They both stop VERY well with just those upgrades.

On my wheeler a 1" master, large dual diaphragm booster and 94 brakes all the way around would lock up all 4 38" sx's with 3 psi on dry pavement. I tried a few things when I upgraded to 1 ton axles and never did get the right feel from the pedal again. It still stopped immediately but it just wasn't the same. Granted that was big heavy axles and 44's so even 4 wheel discs were being taxed. :redneck:

 

[Skid Mark]

I wish I could bolt a GM SINGLE piston caliper on my toyota front.

Ive seen a home made conversion useing a chevy half ton IFS rotor and single piston caliper on both front and rear toyota axels. They just made brackets out of a couple pices of steel plate welded together and drilled to bolt on.

I'm not sure what the years of the chevy truck parts came off of I belive the fronts were a larger roter like a heavyhalf and or I think there was something he had to machine on the front rotors or hub or wheel size I dont know or rember but I know it can be done and yall have the tecknoligy to geterdone

:beer:

 

[srgould41]

I was thinking about doing that very same thing on my FJ40 fronts (truck knuckles). Even with the large piston caliper upgrade they don't stop that well. Glad to know it's possible. Why not keep the FJ slotted rotors? The inner and outer diameters are very close. The FJ rotors are thinner than the Chevy rotors, but should work.

Ive seen a home made conversion useing a chevy half ton IFS rotor and single piston caliper on both front and rear toyota axels. They just made brackets out of a couple pices of steel plate welded together and drilled to bolt on.

I'm not sure what the years of the chevy truck parts came off of I belive the fronts were a larger roter like a heavyhalf and or I think there was something he had to machine on the front rotors or hub or wheel size I dont know or rember but I know it can be done and yall have the tecknoligy to geterdone

:beer:

 

[Skid Mark]

I was thinking about doing that very same thing on my FJ40 fronts (truck knuckles). Even with the large piston caliper upgrade they don't stop that well. Glad to know it's possible. Why not keep the FJ slotted rotors? The inner and outer diameters are very close. The FJ rotors are thinner than the Chevy rotors, but should work.

And they would probly work till the brake pad wears down to the point where the caliper over extends and you loose all brakepresure.

Reguardless of what you do end up useing it should be a matched caliper to roter set I.E. "with in measured specs" .

First thing I'd do is remove any perportining valves in the rear brakes and go disc rear so theres no constant need for adjustment and then upgrade fronts after to match up with the rears. I'm willing to bet most of your not haveing good brakes is in thoes two items (porp valves/bleeding and drum adjustments as a couple other people mentioned

 

[PaulSac]

Just an update on this. I got everything upgraded I could think of and they stop much better (probably just because my back brakes were never working).

For the front I put on 1983 landcruiser rotors. Since I have a 83 front axle I figure I could remember that even though I guess any FJ60 rotors work. I put on 93 4x4 pickup front calipers with the 4 large pistons.

For the rear I bypassed the proportioning valve using this method:
http://www.4x4spot.com/proportioning.htm
I also replaced the wheel cylinders since they were froze up and replaced the drum hardware and adjusted the drums.

Under the hood I replaced my single diaphram booster with a dual from a 1994 4runner. I also upgraded the master cylinder from the same 4runner.

The pedal doesn't need much input with the dual diaphram booster but I got used to it quickly like that. Also my rear brakes lock up real easy which from what I heard wouldn't happen when running large tires. I will probably just put in an adjustable valve later.

 

[Skid Mark]

. Also my rear brakes lock up real easy which from what I heard wouldn't happen when running large tires. I will probably just put in an adjustable valve later.

Awesome.

just a thought untill you get the larger tires you could just backoff the rear breaks a few notches to prevent them locking as quickly.

 

[PaulSac]

Awesome.

just a thought untill you get the larger tires you could just backoff the rear breaks a few notches to prevent them locking as quickly.

I have 36" iroks but they still lock up. Guess they work good.