Valve lash adjustment - 4.3 v6

CHOP SHOP · Jun 30, 2009

crash said:
as you tighten down the rocker--with your thumb and forfinger turn/spin the pushrod. Do this while tightening the rocker till the you can't turn it. Thats zero backlash. Then one turn past....

Also--what year motor is this?

So with no oil pressure the lifter wont bleed back and give you a false feeling/reading? Yeah right.

I dont work at no dealer, but Ive owned more chevs than I care to remember. I have been taught by hotrodders that wrenched on v8s before the SBC even existed and they would just laugh at that process.

Many folks have agreed here that it needs to be set running. :awesomework:
The only one off was binder, he said, "1.5 turns" I think. Thats wrong too. WT was on the money when stating it needs to be a 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero lash. back it off till it clacks then tighten it till it just quiets up, then go another 3/4 turn in 1/4 turn increments letting the engine keep up with your ratchet.

THATS THE ONLY WAY TO ADJUST CHEVY VALVES WORTH DOING.:awesomework:

crash2 · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
You still may not have the compression stroke. If the lifters are loose you will get compression on both the compression stroke AND the exhaust stroke. You either need to line up the marks on the timing chain (probably covered up) or crank the engine by hand watching the lifters. After the intake lifter goes down then continue to where the timing marks line up. Make sure to turn it the correct direction.

Another trick to verify the compression stroke. Take a piece of 3/8" hose about 2ft long. Shive one end down into the threads of the sparkp-lug hole and blow. Of course if it is indeed the compression stroke you won't be able to easily blow.

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

You guys do realize that in order to set them running you should first get them at least close. New lifters if adjusted way loose the push rod could come off and the lifter could pop out of it's hole. BTDT and it sucks! Also if they're too tight it could bind and bend a push rod if you're lucky and the valve doesn't hit the piston.

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
The only one off was binder, he said, "1.5 turns" I think. Thats wrong too.

That's not what I wrote. I wrote in reference to setting lash with the engine NOT RUNNING. Also said "1.25 turns IIRC" and "look it up".:redneck:

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

crash said:
Another trick to verify the compression stroke. Take a piece of 3/8" hose about 2ft long. Shive one end down into the threads of the sparkp-lug hole and blow. Of course if it is indeed the compression stroke you won't be able to easily blow.

Great trick but still if the valves have not been set then both valves will be closed.:;

CHOP SHOP · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
That's not what I wrote. I wrote in reference to setting lash with the engine NOT RUNNING. Also said "1.25 turns IIRC" and "look it up".:redneck:

All a guy needs is two people. One to bump the starter and one to preset the valves.

Have a friend roll over the engine till you SEE both valves open then close, then just crack it a little and observe the valve stems. if they didnt move, guess what, they are on the flat of the cam lobe and those two can be set regarless of tdc/etc. At this point follow crashes instructions about zero lash, roll the pushrods on those two till they stop. Move to the next pair. Do all this way then start t up and set them by ear.

CHOP SHOP · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
Great trick but still if the valves have not been set then both valves will be closed.:;

or if too tight give a false setting too by not sealing aswell.

crash2 · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
Great trick but still if the valves have not been set then both valves will be closed.:;

true..

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
All a guy needs is two people. One to bump the starter and one to preset the valves.

Many of us don't have the luxury of two people. I work on my junk solo.:booo:

crash2 · Jun 30, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
So with no oil pressure the lifter wont bleed back and give you a false feeling/reading? Yeah right.

I dont work at no dealer, but Ive owned more chevs than I care to remember. I have been taught by hotrodders that wrenched on v8s before the SBC even existed and they would just laugh at that process.

Many folks have agreed here that it needs to be set running. :awesomework:
The only one off was binder, he said, "1.5 turns" I think. Thats wrong too. WT was on the money when stating it needs to be a 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero lash. back it off till it clacks then tighten it till it just quiets up, then go another 3/4 turn in 1/4 turn increments letting the engine keep up with your ratchet.

THATS THE ONLY WAY TO ADJUST CHEVY VALVES WORTH DOING.:awesomework:

I don't care how you do it. I am just telling how the industry does it--with zero problems.. Take that for what its worth..

CHOP SHOP · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
Many of us don't have the luxury of two people. I work on my junk solo.:booo:

My local schucks has remote starter buttons. You dont get an easier engine to clip it on to either.

Hell I just use my old bent crooked screwdriver to jump the solenoid from the passenger bank:redneck:

I was makin it "terry friendly":cheer:

CHOP SHOP · Jun 30, 2009

crash said:
I don't care how you do it. I am just telling how the industry does it--with zero problems.. Take that for what its worth..

Your procedure was out numbered too. Take it for what its worth.:beer:

Why didnt you suggest taking it to the dealer then?:corn:

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Why didnt you suggest taking it to the dealer then?:corn:

The buggy dealer.:haha:
What's this guy working on anyways? New engine or old? What exactly did you have it apart for?

ROKRIG · Jun 30, 2009

Binder said:
The buggy dealer.:haha:
What's this guy working on anyways? New engine or old? What exactly did you have it apart for?

Valve ticking from passenger side of motor ('89 4.3 v6), used but rebuilt motor from Derrick (Deerlick). Just trying to eliminate the ticking which Derrick also confirmed was there when he had it and that he just didn't get around to adjusting the lash.

Anyways...I've eliminated the ticking. My only problem now is that it runs rough (like it's got a really aggressive cam in it). I think this is because I slightly tightened the loosey goosey #6 exhaust valve on the #4 firing position in addition to having done it on the compression stroke. I'm going to go back to compression stroke, double check the lash on that valve and let it be loose on the second revolution hoping that the oil pressure will take up the slack and all will be good.

Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate the varying methods.

Terry

zukkev · Jun 30, 2009

ROKRIG said:
Valve ticking from passenger side of motor ('89 4.3 v6), used but rebuilt motor from Derrick (Deerlick). Just trying to eliminate the ticking which Derrick also confirmed was there when he had it and that he just didn't get around to adjusting the lash.

Anyways...I've eliminated the ticking. My only problem now is that it runs rough (like it's got a really aggressive cam in it). I think this is because I slightly tightened the loosey goosey #6 exhaust valve on the #4 firing position in addition to having done it on the compression stroke. I'm going to go back to compression stroke, double check the lash on that valve and let it be loose on the second revolution hoping that the oil pressure will take up the slack and all will be good.

Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate the varying methods.

Terry

If you tightened the lifter to the pont of getting it quiet, and the motor runs rough now, it may be the cam lobe is gone/going....BTST....And FWIW, I also have done the static valve adjustment using the SAME method as Crash in determining '0 lash' with ZERO issues on more SBC's than I care to count....

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

Could be that sound wasn't a lifter to begin with..

ROKRIG · Jun 30, 2009

??? I never suggested it might be a lifter

Binder · Jun 30, 2009

ROKRIG said:
??? I never suggested it might be a lifter

Lifter-pushrod-rocker arm-valve stem.....If the problem were/ is valve lash adjustment the sound could come from any of these....

ROKRIG · Jun 30, 2009

okay, gotcha.

Ed Bister · Jun 30, 2009

ROKRIG said:
Valve ticking from passenger side of motor ('89 4.3 v6), used but rebuilt motor from Derrick (Deerlick). Just trying to eliminate the ticking which Derrick also confirmed was there when he had it and that he just didn't get around to adjusting the lash.

Anyways...I've eliminated the ticking. My only problem now is that it runs rough (like it's got a really aggressive cam in it). I think this is because I slightly tightened the loosey goosey #6 exhaust valve on the #4 firing position in addition to having done it on the compression stroke. I'm going to go back to compression stroke, double check the lash on that valve and let it be loose on the second revolution hoping that the oil pressure will take up the slack and all will be good.

Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate the varying methods.

Terry

an over tight valve could kill your compression in that cylinder because it wont close all the way thus making it run rough......SET THEM WHILE IT'S RUNNING :masturbanana[1]: