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We-Rock. KarlVP in stock mod class

Mine just needs a lot of mechanical right repairs right now. Cant have any leakes. My oil pan leaks like a SOB, and my rear main seal.Just a lot fo little things, right now my main focus is linking the rear, then that takes me totally out of the stock class. LOL. And the only othher way I would compete is with a buggy.
 
JOOP said:
right now my main focus is linking the rear, then that takes me totally out of the stock class. LOL. And the only othher way I would compete is with a buggy.


How does it take you out of the mod stock class??? Is it gonna be more than 2 inches over stock wheelbase?
 
Carl, I thought about competing too. But here are some of the rules that would have made me change alot of things and will impact you too.


4.16: Roll bars/Cages​
W.E.Rock considers the cage as the safety bars surrounding the driver. Cages must be designed
to protect the occupant in the event of a rollover.
The following are roll bar/cage guidelines for competition:​
4.16.1:​
Six (6) point mounting cages covering the driver are required.

4.16.2:​
OEM bars are approved for a portion of the roll cage.

4.16.3:​
Handles are required on the interior portion of the roll-cage or vehicle.

4.16.4:​
Round steel tubing (D.O.M Preferred) 1.5†O.D with 0.120†wall is compulsory for the
basic roll cage. Aluminum and/or soft metals are not permitted. Roll bar construction must be
welded. A W.E.Rock official must approve roll cages made of other material or in other wall
thickness/diameters.

4.16.5:
Connection positions of the roll cage must tie in to the frame of the vehicle; Body mounts
are considered a tie in point.

4.16.6:
The front-most position must be no farther toward the rear of the vehicle than fifteen (15)
inches behind the throttle and brake pedals.

4.16.7:
The Cage must have a space no wider than 24†above the driver’s head, and at least 1
spreader bar between the front main bar and rear main bar are required unless the cage top is
24†wide or less.

4.16.8:
Gussets must be welded in the four corners of the “haloâ€. Gussets may be tubing or plate
steel.

4.16.9:​
A minimum of.040 magnetic expanded or flat sheet metal, or 1/8†aluminum, must cover
the area immediately over the driver seat and be welded or bolted to the roll cage. Steel tubing
must surround the roof panel.

4.16.10:​
W.E.Rock recommends a spreader bar to be mounted under the dash area to connect
the right and left “A†pillars.

4.16.11:​
If doors are not ran, a bar running from the “B†pillar, at approximately shoulder height, to
the “A†pillar, at approximately shin height, must be ran. This can be a bolt in piece.

4.16.12:​
A “periscope bar†(a bar sticking straight up from the roll cage) is not allowed.

***A cage height minimum of 3†of the from around the entire helmet of the
drivers will be the Mandatory set standard for the 2007 season***
4.17: Seating​
The following are seating guidelines for competition:​
4.17.1:​
Adequately padded headrest or neck support acceptable to W.E.Rock official inspectors
is required.

4.17.2:​
Factory seats must be fastened to the tub in the factory mounting points or to the roll
cage.

4.17.3:​
Aftermarket seats must be attached to the roll cage.

4.17.4:​
Mounting points must be in good condition without rust or corrosion.

4.17.5:​
An approved four-point harness is mandatory and must be worn at all times while on an
obstacle.


So once you have your helmet on measure and see if you have the required 3" min.

 
darius said:
Where's the part that say's straight water is ok, or are you pointing out that it say's nothing?

Just pointing out that it says nothing.

And Changing the coolant for 100% H2O wouldn't be hard for me. Unless you can reccomend something. The great Lamar stated way back when that 100% coolant is much more efficent anyway.

Anywho, I don't care, as long as I am within the rules.
 
shotmobile said:


So once you have your helmet on measure and see if you have the required 3" min.​

I am good. My cage is crazy high. (Higher than the windshield frame) When I built it, I was going by the PNW4WDA race rules, so I could compete with those guys too. Plenty O room. But I will have to add a piece of sheet metal over the drivers seat. Not a biggie. The rule I am going to have to ask about is the "halo" gussets, but I can add those too.

dsc02775vs2.jpg



My Rig will be ready for this. I definately don't want to show up and then get turned away for not being within the rules.
 
KarlVP said:
I am good. My cage is crazy high. (Higher than the windshield frame) When I built it, I was going by the PNW4WDA race rules, so I could compete with those guys too. Plenty O room. But I will have to add a piece of sheet metal over the drivers seat. Not a biggie. The rule I am going to have to ask about is the "halo" gussets, but I can add those too.

dsc02775vs2.jpg



My Rig will be ready for this. I definately don't want to show up and then get turned away for not being within the rules.

Karl,
just from that pic' of the cage, I think the cage rules are going to be the least of your worry's...

--Berne
 
KarlVP said:
Just pointing out that it says nothing.

And Changing the coolant for 100% H2O wouldn't be hard for me. Unless you can reccomend something. The great Lamar stated way back when that 100% coolant is much more efficent anyway.

Anywho, I don't care, as long as I am within the rules.


They do not mean you should only run water only. While water is more efficient than cooant at cooling there is this little "boiling" problem over 212 degrees. Run "water-wetter" I can't remember who makes it right now but any race shop or bike shop should be able to hook you up. It is what we run in the bikes and race cars to facilitate easy cleanup of spills on the track. (ethylene glycol is VERY slippery!)
 
JOOP said:
right now my main focus is linking the rear, then that takes me totally out of the stock class.

Why, as long as you don't exceed the wb rule you are fine.
Tory's rig is linked front and rear, so is Buzz, Dan, Troy and all the other top 5 rigs in the class.
 
pbmcauliffe said:
Why, as long as you don't exceed the wb rule you are fine.
Tory's rig is linked front and rear, so is Buzz, Dan, Troy and all the other top 5 rigs in the class.

but I wanna stretch the wheelbase 3". I guess I could do 2" and keep it close. But it was my understanding that you had to run the suspension set-up you rig originally came with?????? YJ's have to run leaf set-ups. TJ's = coil's. But I may be wrong.

But then I dont know if I'm going to have the cash to get it all done in time. I kinda blew too much money last month.. My jeep fund went into my computer fund and plotter fund. But at that time I didn't have my 60. So now I'm back on budget mode. Sell stuff to buy stuff. I would like to compete if I can make it ontime, but I dont think I'm going too. I just dont have the time anymore working a real job. :booo:
 
JOOP said:
but I wanna stretch the wheelbase 3". I guess I could do 2" and keep it close. But it was my understanding that you had to run the suspension set-up you rig originally came with?????? YJ's have to run leaf set-ups. TJ's = coil's. But I may be wrong.

any suspension is fair game.....so long as the suspension doesn't come inside the rig (coil-overs poking through the floor in the rear and such).....and the WB has to be within 2" or 2.5" (depending on sanctioning body)
 
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